An Etrog You Can Eat (Kind of)

The most “beautiful” fruit is the Etrog. At least, that’s what the rabbis tell us.

In order to observe the festival of Sukkot, the Bible tells us to gather four species and rejoice with them: palm (Lulav), myrtle (Hadasim), willows (Aravot), and “the fruit of a beautiful tree.”

No one knows what fruit they had in mind; or, for that matter, whether they had in mind a specific fruit at all.

The rabbis, however, inherited a tradition that the fruit was the citron, called “Etrog” in Hebrew. Since the early Rabbinic period, the Etrog has been considered an essential part of the observance of Sukkot.

Many Jews pay large sums of money to purchase a particularly large and beautiful Etrog for Sukkot. But there is another, less beautiful side to this “beautiful” fruit.

Etrogim are difficult to grow, and most of the fruit that a tree bears will not be sufficiently unblemished to satisfy ritually observant Jews.

In order to maximize the marketable produce of each tree, Israeli Etrogim are sprayed with pesticides that would not be considered food-grade by US standards. That might be okay, if you don’t eat them. Since they are not being sold for food, they do not have to meet the standard that would be required for edible citrus fruit. They are being sold purely for ritual purposes.

On the other hand, who wants to handle a fruit sprayed with all those pesticides?

Personally, I would like my fruit to be edible and safe. Truth be told, the actual fruit of an Etrog is virtually inedible, anyway. The rind, however, is a popular ingredient in many delicious recipes. Candied citron rind is the mysterious chunks of fruit in fruitcake, and the zest is essential to the Italian pastry sfogliatella.

But there is good news! Finally, we are able to offer California-grown Etrogim, along with the branches of lulav, myrtle and willow, for Sukkot. The farm where we will purchase our Etrogim meets all the California standards, i.e. it’s real food, not just decorative!

It seems to me that this is the height of kosher standards: minimal pesticide use, and not being shipped half-way around the world.

What’s more, the price is excellent for superior quality Etrogim.

Even if you have never had your own Lulav and Etrog for Sukkot, I invite you to make this year’s holiday even more special by purchasing your own set.

Please make a check for $40 payable to Congregation Beth Emek.

Orders are due by August 30. Don’t delay!

Rabbi Larry Milder