Plant of the Month
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Cheery daffodils are a welcome sight in spring! |
Daffodils
Narcissus
The Harbinger
of Spring!
Spring blooming bulbs are the colorful messengers that spring has finally arrived. But for me, it is the wonderful daffodils with their bright yellow "trumpets" that truly signal the coming of the new spring season.
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Colorful Narcissus are blooming throughout the Viette gardens.
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Loads
of Choices
The great thing about daffodils is that they are available in a tremendous diversity of colors, forms, and sizes. According to the American Daffodil Society, there are over 25,000 registered cultivars of daffodils! Choosing which bulbs you want to grow may be
t
he hardest part of growing them! Watch a video clip of some of the different types of daffodils. The Viettes have done extensive testing and have compiled a list of some of the best cultivars for naturalizing in the garden.
So Easy!
Daffodils are among the easiest of all plants to grow. They are reliable bloomers year after year if provided with sun, good drainage, and a little food every year. Planting daffodils in the fall is a great project for "little gardeners" because they are not only easy to grow but they make wonderful long-lasting cut flowers for the first colorful bouquets of spring! Watch a video tip on the best way to cut daffodils for long-lasting indoor arrangements.
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Many miniature daffodils have a wonderful fragrance. |
Growing Daffodils
Plant daffodil bulbs in mid to late fall. They grow and flower best in full sun but they will also do fine in bright shade. Good drainage is important so amend the soil with organic matter like peat moss or compost before planting. Plant daffodil bulbs at a depth that measures about
3 times their height. Mix about 2 teaspoons of Espoma Bulb-tone with the soil at the bottom of the planting hole, drop the bulb in (pointed side up), and cover with soil. That's all there is to it! Watch Mark's
video tips on planting spring bulbs in the garden.
After Blooming Care
In the spring after they finish blooming, top dress your bulb bed with Espoma Bulb-tone according to the label directions.
DO NOT cut, tie, or braid
the daffodil foliage after blooming as this restricts photosynthesis and robs the bulb of the nutrients needed for the following season's bloom.
Wait six weeks (after they finish blooming) for the foliage to ripen before cutting it back.
Once the majority of the foliage turns brown, you can carefully pull it off or cut it back. Watch Mark's
video tip on when it is safe to remove daffodil foliage.
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Daffodil foliage not quite ready to cut back |
Animal Resistant!
Daffodil bulbs and leaves are toxic to deer, voles, squirrels, and rabbits so they are rarely bothered by these furry critters! In fact, some gardeners have found that planting daffodils among perennials that are susceptible to deer browsing, actually discourages them from eating these plants at least while the foliage is up!
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Beautiful hybrid daffodils |
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More April Tips ...
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Don't let spring insects and diseases ruin your gardens!
Insect Control
Tent Caterpillars:
I have just started to notice the sticky white webs of tent caterpillars forming in the trees. The best time to control these destructive caterpillars is when they are very small. These young caterpillars can be controlled safely (without harming beneficial insects) by spraying Bonide BT Thuricide.
Read more about tent caterpillars
Scale Insects:
April is a good time to spray hollies, euonymus, and other susceptible trees and shrubs with Bonide All Seasons Oil or Bonide Neem to control scale insects covering the branches.
Read more about scale
Disease Control
Botrytis: Botrytis is a fungal disease that causes blackened spots on buds, leaves, and stems of many perennials including peonies. If you noticed this disease on your peonies last year, spray with a fungicide like Bonide Mancozeb, Liquid Copper, or Bonide Fung-onil.
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Botrytis on a peony flower bud |
Black Spot on Roses: If you had black spot on your rose foliage last year, begin spraying with a fungicide such as
Bonide Mancozeb, Liquid Copper, Fung-onil, or
Bayer Advanced All-In-One Rose & Flower Care.
Always read and follow the label directions when applying any pesticides!
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Gardening Questions? |
Listen to Andre
on the radio every Saturday morning from 8:00-11:00 on
"In the Garden
with Andre Viette"
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Viette Discussion Board
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Having trouble getting through on the radio?
Visit our
Discussion Board for answers to your gardening questions. Use the convenient search key to see if we have already addressed your problem!
Don't see the answer? Post your question!
It's EASY, just register
as a member.
Please provide your city and state so we are better able answer your question.
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Weekend Gardening Tip
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Drifts of naturalized Narcissus provide a stunning show in March and April
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Have Daffodils that Bloom for Years!
In the last week or so we have had many calls and e-mails about daffodils (Narcissus) not blooming well or even not blooming at all.
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'Ice Follies' is a great
naturalizing cultivar.
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There are several reasons why daffodils might not bloom well or may fail to bloom all together. Many times it has to do with the variety of daffodil that was planted. Some varieties are better "naturalizers" than others, meaning they will proliferate well and bloom for many years with very little care. For over 50 years Andre's father, Martin Viette, planted and tested tens of thousands of daffodils to develop a list of varieties that naturalize well.
Other reasons why daffodils don't bloom:
- Nutrition issues - Feeding your established bulb beds with Espoma Bulb-tone in the early spring, right after they finish blooming, and again in the fall is a good practice to follow. This will ensure that there is always a good supply of nutrients available to fortify the bulbs for producing more beautiful blooms the following season.
- Avoid feeding bulbs with high nitrogen fertilizers! Lawn fertilizers are packed with nitrogen because they are designed to promote beautiful thick foliar growth at the expense of flower production. This is definitely not what you are going for in your bulb gardens! Feed with a fertilizer that is low in nitrogen (the first number) and higher in phosphorus (the second number) which promotes flower production. An organic bulb fertilizer such as Espoma Bulb-tone (3-5-3) is a great choice. If you use a broadcast spreader to fertilize your lawn, be careful that this high nitrogen fertilizer doesn't fly into your bulb and perennial beds.
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Once the foliage begins die back, you can cut it back
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Foliage was not allowed to "ripen" properly
before it was cut off. Be sure to wait 6 weeks after flowering before cutting the foliage back. This gives the foliage enough time to "feed" the bulb for the following season's production of flowers.
- Too much shade - Make sure your daffodils are getting enough sun. They should have at least a half day of full sun in order to produce flowers. Normally, they will flower under deciduous trees because, for the most part, flowering and foliage "ripening" occurs before most trees are fully covered with leaves. They will not grow well or flower under evergreen trees or shrubs because the shade is too dense.
- Soggy Soil - Daffodils need well-drained soil to grow well and flower. Overly wet conditions can cause the bulbs to rot and eventually die. Be sure to amend the soil with organic matter before planting.
- Bulbs may be too crowded - Sometimes if daffodil clumps are too compacted, they will cease to produce flowers or flower production will decline. If this is the case, the clumps should be divided.
- Dividing daffodils - When the foliage has ripened, lift the clump and separate the individual bulbs.
- These bulbs can be replanted right away.
- If you don't replant them after dividing, they should be dried thoroughly in a shady location and stored in mesh onion or potato bags (or even panty hose!) in a cool location with good air circulation. Replant them in the fall in well prepared soil.
For more information on daffodils and their culture
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Beware of Late Spring Frosts!
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Mid-April freeze damage to tender hosta foliage
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Don't be fooled into thinking that cold weather is behind us!
The recent warm days can lure you into a false sense of security that no more cold weather is coming.
Don't believe it! It's only the beginning of April and there is now a freeze watch in effect for us for Saturday night. It is supposed to be even colder (in the low 20's) early next week! In the Shenandoah Valley, our average last frost date is sometime around mid-May.
- It's still to early to plant dahlias, gladiolus, and other summer flowering bulbs in the garden. Dormant bulbs with no top growth can be planted in mid-April. If you have started summer flowering bulbs indoors in pots and they have top growth, you must wait until after the danger of frost to put them outside.
- Don't be tempted to go out on these warm early spring days and buy a bunch of annuals for your hanging baskets and outdoor containers unless you are able to bring them inside or cover them well during cold weather. Many are grown in warmer climates or in hot greenhouses and may not be hardened off at all. They can be knocked back by cold temperatures that aren't even near freezing.
- It's WAY to early to put out tomato plants in the garden. Wait until after your average last frost date to put them out. Be sure they are hardened off. As I mentioned above, even just cold air temperatures can set them back and stunt their growth.
- These warm temperatures will fool many perennials into early growth. This tender new foliage will be susceptible to cold damage. Be prepared to cover them if a heavy frost is predicted.
Some things you may not know about frost:
- Temperatures do not have to drop below freezing for frost to occur.
- Frost can occur even at 38°F or 40°F if the night is clear and the winds are calm!
- If there is cloud cover and the night is windy, frost will not usually settle on the ground or plants even when temperatures drop to 34°F.
- White frost generally occurs when temperatures are above the 32 degree mark and is usually less damaging to plants than a black frost.
- Black frost occurs when temperatures fall below 32°F - down to around 28°F or lower.
- Black frost is always a killing frost because it damages plant tissue causing a blackened appearance to the foliage.
- Certain perennials are more susceptible to frost and freeze damage once they begin growing. These include Hosta, Astilbe, Cimicifuga, Kirengeshoma, and Japanese anemones.
Watch the temperatures
Be prepared to cover tender new growth if a frost or freeze is forecast.
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Covering tender young hosta foliage for frost protection
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- Blankets, sheets, or cardboard boxes can be used to protect plants from frost or freeze damage.
- These covers prevent the frost from settling on the foliage and physically causing damage.
- In addition, covering preserves ground heat and keeps the temperature warmer under the cover.
- Keep the plants covered until the temperature rises above 38°F or 40°F or the frost melts off.
- Be careful not to leave the covers over the plants in the sun or they will cook!
If frost or freeze damage does occur on the above listed perennials, they can be sheared back and will flush out with fresh new growth.
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From the Viette's Views Blog ...
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Did You Know?
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A drift of naturalized crocus is a colorful sight in early spring. |
Many Other Spring Bulbs Naturalize Well
Spring bulbs give the garden a "natural" look when planted en masse under trees and shrubs or even in the grass. They are especially beautiful when planted in great drifts in a woodland setting!
The
following is a list of Andre's favorite spring bulbs for naturalizing.
Crocus - brightly colored little cup-shaped flowers 2"-6" tall that thrive and naturalize in lawns. Plant in the fall in full sun to partial shade 3"-4" deep, 2" apart in a light, well-drained soil.
Leucojum aestivum 'Gravetye Giant' (Giant Snowflake)
Large, long-lasting lily-of-the-valley type flowers, white with green markings with 2 to 8 on each 18" stem. They flower in late spring. Set bulbs out in fall in full sun or partial shade 5"-6" deep, 4-6" apart in well-drained, rich soil.
Muscari (Grape Hyacinth)
Thickly flowered stems with flowers in blues and purples, 6"-8" high. Underplant around shrubs and small trees, at the border's edge and with larger Narcissus. Plant in early autumn in full sun or partial shade, 5" deep, 1"-3" apart, in well-drained, rich soil.
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Snowdrops
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Galanthus (Snowdrops)
Usually the first bulbs to flower, sometimes as the snow is on the ground. It has one delicate, bell-like white flower 4"-6" high. Naturalizes well in the lawn or on slopes. Plant in early fall 4" deep, 1"-2" apart in moist, well-drained soil in sun o
r partial shade.
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Small drifts of white scilla
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Scilla spp - many gentian blue, white or pink flowers appear on 12"-14" stems in mid spring. Naturalizes under shrubs or in the garden. Plant in early fall in sun to partial shade 4" deep and 4" apart in well-worked, well-drained, slightly moist enriched soil.
Other Bulbs for Naturalizing
- Chionodoxa - Glory-of-the-Snow
- Darwin Hybrid Tulips
- Eranthis - Winter Aconite
- Erythronium - Dog Tooth Violet
- Puschkinia - Striped Squill
- Tulipa - Species Tulips
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One More April Tip!
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A bagworm case hangs
from a cedar tree
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Bagworms are destructive insects that attack many deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs. They can be recognized by the characteristic case or "bag" that they construct around themselves as they grow and feed. The bag is made from silk and plant material from the plants they are feeding on. Bags which were constructed by the females can contain up to 1,000 eggs. These eggs usually hatch in late May through early June from bags that were constructed during the previous season.
Right now you can take some sharp scissors or shears and cut the bags off your trees and shrubs. This is an environmentally friendly way to "cut down" the bagworm populations without using chemical controls. Just snip what you can reach from the ground. We don't recommend climbing a ladder to do this.
Read more about controlling bagworms.
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Travel with Andre and Claire Viette in 2016!
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Budapest on the banks of the Danube
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The Imperial Gardens
and Treasures Tour
September 18 - October 1, 2016
Featuring the Imperial worlds of the
German and Austro-Hungarian Empires
Visit Hungary, Austria, the Czech Republic, and Germany
Tour highlights include:
Budapest - Enjoy a guided tour of this beautiful city on the Danube; visit a botanical garden; spend a day in the Puszta - land of the Hungarian cowboys and be treated to an equestrian show and gypsy music
Vienna - From Budapest, we will travel up the Danube by hydrofoil boat to Vienna where you will see the famous Lipizzaner Stallions, the
Schönbrunn Gardens, and enjoy a concert of Strauss and Mozart at the
Schönbrunn Palace
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Cruising on Berlin's River Spree
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Prague - We then travel north to Prague by way of the scenic Wachau Valley. Tour Prague, its famous castle, the Charles Bridge, and magnificent gardens. End the day with a three-hour cruise on the Vltava River!
Berlin - On the way to Berlin, we will stop at the city of Dresden. In Berlin, relax on a cruise on the River Spree, enjoy a candlelight dinner and concert at the Charlottenburg palace, and take a walking tour of Berlin. You can even opt to join Andre and Claire on a visit to the largest private botanical garden in Europe.
Andre will give a series of gardening presentations throughout the trip.
Space is limited to 42 persons so this trip will fill up fast!
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