Gardening Tips           Spring 2012 

What happened to winter?

Frankly, we're just happy that spring has sprung early; it's one of the most beautiful we've seen in a long time.

Here's what it means for you and your gardens, yards:

• Everything bloomed earlier, so it's time to prune those spring-bloomers to stimulate growth and shape up shrubs for next year
• Feeding time - fertilize your shrubs and trees
• Start watering now (see article below about watering, irrigation systems)
• Catch those spring and summer weeds now, before they get out of hand 
• Plan your summer fun now by considering an outdoor kitchen, patio upgrade or garden path 

How often to water?

            To ensure good establishment of annuals, ground cover and trees/shrubs, follow these watering guidelines for the first six weeks after planting, especially if there's little or no rain:

• Annuals and perennials - check daily
• Ground covers and one gallon plants - check every other day
• Trees and Shrubs - check twice a week

            If you find that the ground is dry around the root ball of the plantings, water thoroughly. It will also help to apply about two inches of mulch around new plantings. CAUTION: for trees and shrubs, give the plants room to breathe, leaving about three inches between the stems and the mulch. Otherwise you may choke your plants, cause disease or fungus to grow.       

Is your irrigation system earning its keep?

            When was the last time you had your irrigation checked? Are the sprinklers watering your house, driveway and sidewalks? Are all the heads working? Have you changed your landscape since the system was installed?

            Do you know how much water the system is putting out? Here's a link to a great article about irrigation posted by the Polk County (Florida) Master Gardeners:

http://polkmastergardener.ifas.ufl.edu/faqs/water_lawn.shtml 

Be alert to conditions that can change the information in the article - little or no rainfall, hillside planting, full exposure to sun, plants installed next to asphalt, concrete or other reflective surfaces. Also be sure that plants needing shade are planted in the correct place; too much sun can quickly dry out plants that need shade.

Do you have ants in your plants?

            The warmer winter means that you may have a bigger population of insects and ants this summer. Already we're seeing fire-ant mounds crop up.

• Most home methods (vinegar, gasoline or bleach applications) don't work and they could be dangerous.
• Localized treatments will cause fire-ants to move to another spot in your yard.
• Did you know that fire-ant mounds have been found up to 10 feet deep?

For best results, do the two-step: first apply a broadcast treatment, followed in 24 hours by a mound drench. Remember to follow all label precautions carefully.

For organic control -- Spread a bait containing the organic bacterial insecticide spinosad (Green Light Fire Ant Control, Bulls Eye, Justice). Then drench the mound with a product containing orange oil (Citrex, Safer Fire Ant Killer, Orange Guard, etc).

Here's a link to 20 questions (and answers) about fire-ants:

http://www.uaex.edu/other_areas/publications/PDF/FSA-7052.pdf 

 Here's another link to bugs that's interesting:

http://www.caes.uga.edu/departments/ent/lpm/ornamentals/soredmite.html

It's not too late for spring cleaning

• Your garden will benefit from spring cleaning and we can help. Here are some tips:
• Rejuvenation pruning - stimulates growth.
• Removing leaves from the base of plants - combats disease.
• Installing mulch - holds moisture, reduces weeds, improves appearance.

            Daffodils - keep the greens but mark where the bulbs are planted so that you can plant more in the fall. The greens provide nutrients for the bulbs to produce flowers next year. Also, it you have multiple daffodils, consider dividing them in the early fall. Photos can also help document seasonal plants in your landscape.

770-519-8278  Jason

770-519-6372  Suzanne