A funny thing about sewing, clothing made at home can look every bit as good or better than those made in a factory as long as you know what to do beyond the pattern guide. Yes, that's right you can make choices and use techniques that are not in the directions!
In this and upcoming newsletters we will examine the pitfalls and misinformation that give garments the "Home-Made" look. Let's start with my favorite tip that will give the professional or couture touch to any faced garment.
When adding facings to necklines and armscyes (armholes) most pattern guides do not direct the sewer to add understitching and none give the proper directions for best results. Unless these areas are topstitched, it's
that they be understitched correctly. The benefits of using this technique are twofold: 1. It keeps the facing from rolling to the outside of the garment which is not the better look. 2. When done properly, the understitching will create not only smooth clean curves but beautiful sculpted necklines.
Here are 3 important tips for proper understitching:
- The seam allowance should be 1/4".
- Clip all curves, clipping 1/4" apart right up to the seam.
- With the seam allowance against the facing, from the right side, stitch through all layers, a needle width away from the seam.