Beautiful, hardy beets thrive in cool, dry weather, and when they're fresh and young they don't have to roast for an hour before you eat them. They don't even have to be peeled.

   Here's what I do with them: cut off the greens and set them aside. Chop an onion and start sauteeing it. Wash the beet bulbs and cut off the hairy roots, then slice them into medallions 1/8 inch thick. Lay the medallions in with the onions. Rinse the greens, pat them dry, chop them coarsely. When you start to see beet juice on the medallions (about five minutes), put the chopped greens on top of the beets, add some coarse salt, and put a cover on the skillet. Let the whole thing steam for five minutes more. If you like it saucy, add some white wine.

   That's good food.