JULY NEWSLETTER

 


THIS MONTH'S SAMPLER:

The Great L&E Loire Valley
Sauvignon Blanc Case Sampler … 185.00 per case

From eastern Touraine all the way to Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé and Menetou Salon, Sauvignon reigns supreme and expresses the uniqueness of the varied soils and microclimates of its many appellations and IGPs. This sampler is really special: you can enjoy the wines for their unbridled deliciousness, or you can focus on how amazingly well the Sauvignon Blanc conveys the differences in the soils, climates and exposures of its many homes in the eastern Loire Valley. Enjoy these selections by themselves, or serve with raw oysters, pan roasted mussels, white-fleshed fish preparations, sautéed vegetables and fresh chèvres.

Each case contains four bottles of each of the following three wines:

  • 2011 Domaine Adèle Rouzé, Quincy
    Quincy is situated on the left bank of the Cher River west of Sancerre in the center of France. Here the soil has more gravel and sand, which makes for a rounder expression of Sauvignon. Adèle Rouzé’s Quincy casts high-toned, wild-yeast driven aromas of lemon zest, white grapefruit and chervil. Old vines and gentle handling give this Quincy the kind of sap, delicacy and refinement that lifts it far above its peers and more in the division of far higher priced Sancerres and Pouilly-Fumés.

  • 2010 Claude Lafond Reuilly, La Raie
    Reuilly is just southwest of Quincy, and Claude Lafond is the uncontested king of the appellation. Reuilly’s soils contain more limestone, and Lafond’s La Raie bottling shows beautifully the chalky, mineral nature of the appellation. Flintier and smokier on the nose, Lafond’s La Raie casts notes of fresh lemon juice spiked with nettles, marjoram and cut grass. Brisk acidity on the palate ensures superb refreshment over the summer and the ability to age and improve for another two or three years.

  • 2011 Cédrick Bardin, Sancerre
    Bardin’s Sancerre is fashioned from Sauvignon vines grown on soils rich in silex (flint). The nobility of the hallowed Sancerre appellation expresses itself in the wine’s complex aromas of grapefruit, basil, chalk and flint. Lemony on the attack, the Sauvignon’s grassiness emerges mid-palate along with expressions of grapefruit, basil, gooseberry, key lime juice. Long and classically structured, the wine finishes c
    lean and citrusy with echoing reprises of silex and white limestone minerality.

 

RED WINES

OREGON – RED

2010 Lange Estate Winery, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 19.99/213.50
Founded in 1987, Don and Wendy Lange’s eponymous winery is one of the Dundee Hills’ most venerable and consistently excellent domaines. Lange’s Willamette Valley Pinot is a blend of all the winery’s vineyard sources, fashioned to be enjoyable upon release. Conveying the beautiful cinnamon- and soil-driven nose that marks the finest 2010 Willamette Valley Pinots, Lange’s Willamette Valley cuvée opens with a classic Oregon Pinot crimson-ruby color and spicy aromas of loganberries, cranberries, toffee and loamy earth. In the mouth, sexy barrel notes of vanilla and caramel fuse with suggestions of cinnamon and aromatic cloves to accent the wine’s brisk core of red raspberry and cherry fruit. Vibrant acidity and plentiful, framing tannins emerge on the back-palate and segue the wine to its long finish tinged with earth, cranberry and cinnamon notes. Delicious now, the wine has structure to age gracefully over the coming three to five years and allow its latent components to harmonize. Pair with roast chicken, pork and duck, cedar plank salmon, and grilled vegetables.

2010 Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 37.99/406.00
This year’s Domaine Drouhin Oregon Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is truly amazing. The wine’s lovely crimson-garnet robe leads to a beautiful Volnay-like nose of earthy cranberries, freshly crushed raspberries, minerals and spice. Pure and focused on the palate, the wine possesses a silky texture rare for 2010 vintage alongside earthy, appetizing expressions of loganberries, autumnal leaves and wintergreen. Transparent to the point that you feel like you’re smelling the soil on which the wine was grown, the wine finishes long, lacy and elegant with brilliant, high-toned red fruits mingling with suggestions of rose petals, cinnamon and subtle barrel notes of vanilla and coffee. Delicious and precocious, the wine’s aromatic spectrum is already in full bloom, but it conveys such a sense of balance as to ensure a decade’s evolution in your cellar. Our vote for the most impressive DDO Willamette Valley Pinot since the 1999, or maybe the otherworldly ’93 and ’98. A must-buy for all fans of DDO Pinot, and another stunning success from Véronique Drouhin-Boss! Pair with broiled salmon, roast duck and chicken and hearty potato preparations.

FRANCE – RED

2007 Triennes St. Auguste, Vin de Pays du Var, Provence, France 15.99/171.00
Triennes is the joint project of Aubert de Villaine and Jacques Seysses, owners of Burgundy’s prestigious domaines Romanée-Conti and Dujac, respectively. Using gentle Burgundian techniques, Seysses and de Villaine fashion a splendid portfolio of wines from their Provence estate just east of Aix-en-Provence. Trienne’s St. Auguste is a smashing cuvée of 50% Syrah, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot that beautifully fuses the warm lustiness of Provence with the elegance of a fine Médoc. The 2007 St. Auguste marries the ripe cassis and black cherry notes from the Cabernet Sauvignon with tar, black pepper and leather overtones from the Syrah. A lovely hint of plum and bitter chocolate from the Merlot adds depth and complexity. From start to finish, the wine conveys the coolness and minerality true to its high-altitude, rocky clay and chalk terroir. Twelve months aging in used barrels rounds out the wine, softens its tannins and gives it an aristocratic edge rarely found in wines from the Sud. Enjoy this stylish “Vargundy” now or over the next three years with burgers, grilled chicken, rosemary-infused lamb preparations, and Southern French recipes featuring eggplant.

2009 Domaine Bressy-Masson, Rasteau, Côtes du Rhone Villages, Southern Rhône Valley, France 15.99/171.00
Rasteau is revered for its bold Gigondas-like reds, and Bressy-Masson again delivers with this gorgeously herb-scented masterpiece. A translucent black-plum color, Bressy-Masson’s 2009 Rasteau rouge opens with high-toned aromas of cinnamon, licorice and garrigue-inflected black cherry and blackberry fruit. The wine then coats the palate with sappy old-vine cherry and blackberry fruit complemented by an undercurrent of stony terroir. Rich and bold, yet balanced and utterly delicious, the wine performs more like a fine Châteauneuf-du-Pape than a humble Côtes du Rhone Villages. A classic blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Carignan and 10% Syrah raised traditionally in concrete, Bressy-Masson’s ’09 Rasteau is big, bold and burly now, but has the stuffing and the balance to evolve gracefully for five to seven years in your cool cellar. Pair with grilled lamb, eggplant, burgers, and rich poultry.

2010 Domaine des Forges, Anjou-Villages, Les 3C, Vignoble Branchereau, Loire Valley, France 13.99/149.50
So sweet: “Les 3C” on the label refers to the three C’s of the Branchereau family, owners of the Domaine des Forges: Claude, the grandfather; Corentin, the grandson; and Camille the granddaughter. A blend of Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon, Forges’ Les 3C is a brilliant representation of the varietals as expressed on the schistose soils of the Anjou. Translucent black-ruby in the glass, the cuvée casts aromas of dried leaves, cured meat, black currants, black pepper and herbs. Showing the beautiful structure of the Loire Valley’s 2010 vintage, the wine alternates waves of currant and cherry fruit, plentiful fine tannins, leafy underbrush and smoky soil notes. Spicy and cinnamon-tinged on the finish, the 3C presents further complex suggestions of bitter chocolate, black cherries, Assam tea and salty minerals. Firmly structured with chewy tannins, the wine is delicious and savory today, but has the poise and the balance to reward five to seven years’ aging in your cool cellar. Pair this superb Anjou-Villages with cured meats, aged goat cheeses, braised rabbit and pork dishes, and grilled beef. Another testament to the greatness of France’s 2010 vintage! Only twenty cases available.

2010 Pascal Aufranc, Juliénas, Les Cerisiers, Vieilles Vignes, Beaujolais, Burgundy, France 12.99/139.00
Young Pascal Aufranc is rightfully renowned for his superb and ageworthy Chénas Vieilles Vignes de 1939. Aufranc’s Juliénas Les Cerisiers, named for the cherry trees that grow near the vineyard which yields this wine, is Aufranc’s most delicious and approachable cru. A lovely transparent garnet hue, Aufranc’s Juliénas leaps out of the glass with gorgeous aromas of cinnamon-spiced pie cherries, pepper and granite. Firm tannins greet the palate alongside a focused core of cherry fruit and crunchy granitic soil. Smoky, suave and lip-smackingly delicious, the wine finishes with another lashing of the bright cherry fruit that gives the wine its identity. This is serious Beaujolais that’s also fun, delicious and convivial. You can chatter about how it conveys that special, deep, underappreciated full-bodied character of northern Beaujolais crus. Or you can sip it with joy and simply relish in the wine’s unbridled deliciousness. Either way, this wine’s a winner and a worthy partner to roast chicken, seared duck breast, quail, mild cheeses and potatoes au gratin. Enjoy now and over the coming five years.

ITALY - RED

2009 Rapalino, Barbera d’Alba, Pian Romualdo, Piedmont, Italy 14.99/160.00
Federico Rapalino’s exemplary Barbera is among our customers’ favorite wines and one of the most successful selections in L&E newsletter history. Just released, Rapalino’s 2009 Barbera is a stunner. Rapalino has captured beautifully a sappy core of sour cherry fruit complemented by the kind of mushroomy, sotto bosco notes that make Piedmont fans weak in the knees. Pian Romualdo is one of Barbera’s grand cru sites, and this wine proves it. Rapalino’s transparent, ruby-colored 2009 Barbera casts a ripe, effusive nose of blackberries, pie cherries, leather, cinnamon and limestone soil. In the mouth, the wine’s palate-staining blackberry and sour cherry fruit is complemented by earthy hints of leather, tobacco, bay leaf, button mushrooms and loamy earth. Delicious now with braised beef, oven roasted root vegetables, egg-rich pastas, or grilled pork, Rapalino’s 2009 Barbera will also cellar well for five to seven years and allow the wine’s mushroom notes to blossom.

SPAIN - RED

2009 Bodegas Faustino, Faustino VII, Rioja, Spain 10.99/117.50
Authentic old-school red Riojas are one of the great wonders of the wine world, yet each year they seem to be more scarce. Bastions of traditional Rioja, Bodegas Faustino’s Faustino VII bottling is the entry point into the bodega’s classic portfolio. A blend of 95% Tempranillo and 5% Mazuelo, the Faustino VII opens with a brilliant black cherry robe followed by classic Rioja aromas of blond tobacco, wild cherry fruit, and hints of spicy vanilla bean. Broad on the attack, the Faustino VII complements its leafy cherry fruit with complex nuances of camphor, leather, cigar tobacco, cloves, cinnamon and smoky soil. Long and inviting, the wine’s liqueur-like cherry fruit is seamlessly balanced by zesty acidity and fine, framing tannins. This is a fresh, full-bodied and immensely versatile wine that begs to be drunk with gusto. Serve with grilled lamb, burgers, tapas, summer vegetables and roasts of beef. Superb, traditional and distinctive Rioja for a song!


WHITE WINES

FRANCE – WHITE

2011 Michel Delhommeau, Muscadet, Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, Cuvée Harmonie, Loire Valley, France 13.99/149.50
Michel and Nathalie Delhommeau farm twenty-eight hectares in the classic Muscadet region. Their Cuvée Harmonie hails from old vines grown on a soil type called gabbro, a dark, coarse-grained volcanic rock akin to basalt. The Delhommeau duo returns to these pages for a third time with this delicious and aromatic rendition from the precocious 2011 vintage. Pale lemon-gold in the glass, Delhommeau’s Harmonie soars with salty and mineral-driven aromas of lemon oil, gunflint and briny oyster shells. Deep and balanced yet deliciously accessible for a young Muscadet, the Harmonie’s texture is satisfyingly broad and refreshing right out of the gate. Notes of grapefruit, Anjou pear, gooseberry and lemongrass mingle with impressions of salty sea air and oyster shell minerality. Long and savory, the wine finishes extraordinarily fresh, vivacious and clean, and begs you to slurp another Belon oyster or Littleneck clam, or take another bite of Dungeness crab or sole in a beurre blanc sauce. Gorgeous Muscadet and a great buy in intensely mineral, soil-driven white wine.

2010 Lucien Lardy, Chardonnay, Beaujolais-Villages, Burgundy, France 12.50/133.50
Fleurie/Morgon/Moulin-à-Vent superstar Lucien Lardy grows his Chardonnay on the southern border of Fleurie, where the soil is sandy clay and ideal for the varietal. A brilliant lemon-gold color, Lardy’s Chardonnay opens with pear, quince and yellow plum fruit accented by a bright undercurrent of minerals. Showing the brilliant balance of ripe fruit and bristling acidity that’s the hallmark of Burgundy’s 2010 vintage, Lardy’s Chardonnay continues with expressions of Crenshaw melon, raw hazelnuts and lemon curd. Long, and mineral driven, the wine finishes with reprises of sappy melon and pear fruit accented by white flowers, tangy acidity and a persistent undercurrent of smoky minerals. Cru Beaujolais has firmly infiltrated the cellars of most wine enthusiasts. The true rara avis of Beaujolais is the appellation’s exemplary white wine, which represents less than one percent of the region’s total production. This is superb Chardonnay by any measure and an absolutely incredible value. Drink now and over the coming three years with roast chicken, broiled salmon, grilled halibut, and rich gratin dauphinois.

2008 F. E. Trimbach, Pinot Blanc, Alsace, France 13.99/149.50
Domaine Trimbach, continues their long string of superb releases with this lovely entry-level Pinot Blanc from the classically styled, mineral-driven 2008 vintage. Green-gold in color, Trimbach’s ’08 Pinot Blanc jumps out of the glass with smoky aromas of apricot, lime zest and petrol. On the palate, the wine balances brisk citrus and stone fruits with laser-sharp acidity and persistent minerality. Hints of green pears, Pippin apples, dissolved minerals and zippy acidity mark the long, clean and bone dry finish. The Trimbach estate never misses, and this 2008 Pinot Blanc captures the intense soil-driven nature of the vintage. Drink now or over the next five years with grilled salmon, duck, choucroute garni, pork, or hearty potato casseroles. A sensational value for a wine of this caliber.

GERMANY – WHITE

1993 C. H. Berres, Wehlener Klosterberg, Spätlese, Mosel, Germany 16.99/181.50
This 1993 Spätlese from the fine Wehlener Klosterberg vineyard shows precisely what makes mature Mosel Riesling so special and why it’s so relished by its devotees. Deep green-tinged yellow-gold in the glass, Berres’ Klosterberg Spätlese opens with classic Mosel Riesling matured aromas of petrol, brioche, slate and buttered apples. Rich and buttery on the palate, the wine’s acidity and residual sugar have melted into its core of citrus, pear and apple fruit. A current of slate minerality and acidity lifts the wine’s soft, buttery fruit. This wine is now at its apogee and ready to drink tonight by itself or as an accompaniment to sautéed vegetables, roast pork, sausages, shellfish, cheeses…just about anything but perhaps wild game meats. A great introduction to the wonders of mature Mosel Riesling, enjoy this affordable wonder now and over the coming ten years. Twenty cases available.

ITALY – WHITE

2010 Le Rote, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Tuscany, Italy 13.50/144.50
In a region dominated by red wines, Vernaccia stands as Tuscany’s premier white wine. Vernaccia finds its singular voice in the predominately sandy soils around the medieval hillside village of San Gimignano. This succulent 2010 Vernaccia from Le Rote (roh-teh) shows the serious side of the appellation. A brilliant golden hue segues to expansive aromas of Bosc pears, beeswax and Mirabelle plums. Bold and palate coating, the wine mingles waxy pear fruit with suggestions of white pepper, sappy hops, wildflower honey and bergamot. Sandy, flinty minerality transitions the wine to its long, resinous, tactile finish. While the delicacy of most Vernaccias command light seafood as their complement, Le Rote’s old-vine rendition demands richer fare such as poultry, pork and game birds, grilled prawns or steak-fishes such as swordfish, ahi or opah. It will also pair well with salty cheeses such as Pecorino. Enjoy this superb Vernaccia now and over the coming year.

SPAIN – WHITE

2011 Bodegas Dinastia Vivanco, Blanco, Rioja, Spain 12.50/133.50
Vivanco’s 2010 blanco is a smashing success of freshness, character and vivacity. A blend of 70% Viura, 20% Malvasia Blanco and 10% of the rare Tempranillo Blanco, the Vivanco opens with a limpid lemon-gold hue and shimmering aromas of honeydew melon, green apples and subtle grassy notes. Vibrant on the palate, the waxy, resinous texture of the Viuria is complemented beautifully by dazzling floral nuances imparted by the Malvasia and zippy acidity of the Tempranillo Blanco. Fresh and brimming with energy, the Vivanco Blanco finishes clean and zesty with lemony citrus notes imbued with limestone minerality and hints of tangerine, lime blossoms and juicy green melon. This is the most exhilarating, modern-styled Rioja Blanco we’ve tasted in a long time, and it’s the surprise, must-try wine of the newsletter. Enjoy now and over the coming year by itself for this stunning refreshment, or serve with seafood and vegetable tapas, fresh goat’s milk cheeses, and vegetable frittatas.


SPARKLING WINE

ITALY – SPARKLING

2011 Gioacchino Garofoli, Guelfo Verde, Vino Frizzante, Marches, Italy 9.50/101.50
This lightly sparkling white from the Marche region is our vote for the best value, most charming sparkling party wine on the market. Made from 30% Verdicchio and 70% Trebbiano, the Guelfo Verde opens with a pale straw yellow color and aromas of green melon, Bartlett pears, cinnamon and sugar snap peas. Dry, crisp and irresistibly quaffable, the wine’s natural sparkle – frizzante! – lifts the wine’s pear and melon fruit and elevates its refreshment quotient. It’s really quite futile to try to analyze this wine: it’s simply so good that one sip and one glance at its price tag will have you buying this by the case for quaffing over the coming warm weather months. Enjoy as your wine for toasting at spring and summer celebrations, or pair it with light fish dishes, antipasti, and mild semi-firm cheeses


ROSÉ WINES

FRANCE ROSÉ

2011 André Dezat, Sancerre, Rosé, Loire Valley, France 18.99/203.00
One sip and you’ll understand the slavish devotion André Dezat’s wines have earned from wine lovers in Europe and the UK. Dezat’s rosé – fashioned from 100% Pinot Noir grown on Sancerre’s white chalky soils – is a classic of the genre: a gleaming orange-salmon color followed by aromas of flinty minerals, golden raspberries, strawberries and white meadow flowers. Chalky and rivetingly acidic, the wine stains the palate with brisk raspberry fruit followed by notes of rhubarb and freshly ground white pepper. Juicy, yet brimming with electric energy, the wine finishes clean, brisk and mouth-watering. This is simply brilliant Sancerre rosé and a rare value at less than $20 a bottle! Buy enough to get you through the coming year. You’ll enjoy this beauty by itself after a hard day’s work, or paired with just about anything except assertive washed-rind cheeses.

2011 Château de Pampelonne, Côtes de Provence, Rosé, Provence, France 14.99/160.00
From France’s premier rosé territory, we’re delighted to have this new addition on our shelves and in our newsletter. A blend of 40% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 20% Syrah and 10% Tibouren, Pampelonne’s rosé opens with a peach-orange robe and classic Provençal rosé aromas of herb- and stone-infused strawberry and raspberry fruit. Suggestions of dried orange peel segue the wine to a lush, creamy palate marked by notes of fresh raspberries, tangelo and ruby grapefruit. Juicy and refreshing, the wine slakes the thirst and leaves the palate fresh, revived and begging for another bite of grilled prawns, bouillabaisse, fennel-stuffed branzino, salmon tartare, sashimi and grilled pork. Thank goodness for an honest, authentic Provençal rosé that satisfies on all levels and doesn’t break the bank. Enjoy now and over the coming year. Limited: only twenty cases available.


WEB EXTRAS: Read the reviews online

NV Vincent Girault, Clos de la Briderie, Crémant de Loire, Pureté de Silex Brut, Loire Valley, France ... 16.99/181.50

2011 Bernard Burle, Font Sarade, Viognier Le Blanc, Vin de Pays de Vaucluse, Southern Rhône Valley, France 13.50/144.50

2005 Fattoria di Petroio, Chianti Classico, Riserva, Tuscany, Italy ... 24.99/267.00 reg. 30.99


This symbol indicates a naturally farmed wine

LINER & ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St.
Portland, OR 97210
800-903-9463
503-241-9463
website
e-mail

HOURS: Mon.-Sat. 10-6
CLOSED: Weds., July 4


THIS MONTH'S WINES:


FRIDAY TASTINGS:
First and third Friday
of the month
5:30-7:30 p.m. Fee

July 6 Let’s celebrate the real start of summer: Our semi-annual Champagne blast.

July 20 Viogniers from around the world.

August 3 Come find out why Donhoff is considered one of the greatest Riesling producers in Germany, if not the world.


SATURDAY TASTINGS:
Weekly; Starts at
12 noon. No fee

June 30 Avinyó Blanc Pétillant, V. Girault Clos de la Briderie Crémant de Loire, and San Martino Aglianico del Vulture Siir. From Oregon: Ayres Vineyard Perspective Pinot Noir and J.K. Carrière Provocateur Pinot Noir.

July 7 Aurelian Fiardet from Terroir Originals will pour superlative wines from France. Plus: Mike DeMarte from Zancanella Imports pours: Cédrick Bardin Sancerre, Lucien Lardy Chardonnay Beaujolais-Villages, and Rapalino Barbera d’Alba Pian Romualdo.

July 14 From Italy: Garofoli Guelfo Verde Vino Frizzante and Le Rote Vernaccia di San Gimignano. From France: Dom. des Forges Anjou-Villages Les 3C, Ch. de Pampelonne Côtes de Provence Rosé, and Triennes St. Auguste Vin de Pays du Var. Plus: we pour our Loire Valley Sampler.

July 21 La belle France: V. Girault Clos de la Briderie Crémant de Loire, André Dezat Sancerre Rosé, M. Delhommeau Muscadet Harmonie, Trimbach Pinot Blanc, Bernard Burle Font Sarade Viognier, and Bressy-Masson Rasteau.

July 28 Superb wines from far and near: C. H. Berres Wehlener Klosterberg Spätlese, Bodegas Faustino Faustino VII Rioja, Bodegas Dinastia Vivanco Rioja. From Oregon: Lange Estate Pinot Noir and Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir.


SPECIAL EVENTS THIS MONTH:

Fattoria Petroio Wine Dinner with Diana Lenzi
At Bastas Trattoria

Tuesday, July 17 7:00 p.m.

Join Petroio’s Diana Lenzi of Fattoria Petroio for a very special Tuscan wine dinner. The superb wines of Petroio will be paired with the great cuisine of chef-owner Marco Frattaroli.

Price: $65 per person, inclusive. Seating is limited. Please contact L&E for your reservations. Payment confirms your reservation.


Tasting Event at L&E with
Philippe Guillanton of Chateau Margüi

Tuesday, July 24 from 5:00-7:00 p.m.

Please join Philippe Guillanton of Ch. Margüi in Provence and Mike DeMarte of Zancanella Imports for an informal tasting of superb Provencal wines from this esteemed estate. We will feature their rightly famous rose, white, and red wines. No reservations needed. Tasting fee $5.


Closed Weds., July 4

 


© Liner & Elsen, all rights reserved. Information and prices apply during the current month only. Wine availability and prices are subject to quantity on hand. We are not responsible for mispriced items in the newsletter.

 

2222 NW Quimby St. (off 22nd Ave.) • Portland, OR 97210
503-241-WINE (9463) • 800-903-WINE (9463) • e-mail
HOURS: Mon.-Sat. 10am-6pm

Call or e-mail to order