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JULY NEWSLETTER
THIS MONTH'S SAMPLER:
The Great L&E Loire
Valley
Sauvignon Blanc Case Sampler … 185.00 per case
From eastern Touraine all
the way to Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé and Menetou
Salon, Sauvignon reigns supreme and expresses the
uniqueness of the varied soils and microclimates of
its many appellations and IGPs. This sampler is really
special: you can enjoy the wines for their unbridled
deliciousness, or you can focus on how amazingly well
the Sauvignon Blanc conveys the differences in the
soils, climates and exposures of its many homes in
the eastern Loire Valley. Enjoy these selections by
themselves, or serve with raw oysters, pan roasted
mussels, white-fleshed fish preparations, sautéed
vegetables and fresh chèvres.
Each case contains four
bottles of each of the following three wines:
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2011 Domaine Adèle
Rouzé, Quincy
Quincy is situated on the left bank of the Cher
River west of Sancerre in the center of France.
Here the soil has more gravel and sand, which makes
for a rounder expression of Sauvignon. Adèle
Rouzé’s Quincy casts high-toned, wild-yeast
driven aromas of lemon zest, white grapefruit and
chervil. Old vines and gentle handling give this
Quincy the kind of sap, delicacy and refinement
that lifts it far above its peers and more in the
division of far higher priced Sancerres and Pouilly-Fumés.
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2010 Claude Lafond
Reuilly, La Raie
Reuilly is just southwest of Quincy, and Claude
Lafond is the uncontested king of the appellation.
Reuilly’s soils contain more limestone, and
Lafond’s La Raie bottling shows beautifully
the chalky, mineral nature of the appellation. Flintier
and smokier on the nose, Lafond’s La Raie
casts notes of fresh lemon juice spiked with nettles,
marjoram and cut grass. Brisk acidity on the palate
ensures superb refreshment over the summer and the
ability to age and improve for another two or three
years.
-
2011 Cédrick
Bardin, Sancerre
Bardin’s Sancerre is fashioned from Sauvignon
vines grown on soils rich in silex (flint). The
nobility of the hallowed Sancerre appellation expresses
itself in the wine’s complex aromas of grapefruit,
basil, chalk and flint. Lemony on the attack, the
Sauvignon’s grassiness emerges mid-palate
along with expressions of grapefruit, basil, gooseberry,
key lime juice. Long and classically structured,
the wine finishes clean and citrusy with
echoing reprises of silex and white limestone minerality.
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RED WINES
OREGON – RED
2010 Lange Estate Winery, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
19.99/213.50
Founded in 1987, Don and Wendy Lange’s eponymous winery is
one of the Dundee Hills’ most venerable and consistently excellent
domaines. Lange’s Willamette Valley Pinot is a blend of all
the winery’s vineyard sources, fashioned to be enjoyable upon
release. Conveying the beautiful cinnamon- and soil-driven nose
that marks the finest 2010 Willamette Valley Pinots, Lange’s
Willamette Valley cuvée opens with a classic Oregon Pinot
crimson-ruby color and spicy aromas of loganberries, cranberries,
toffee and loamy earth. In the mouth, sexy barrel notes of vanilla
and caramel fuse with suggestions of cinnamon and aromatic cloves
to accent the wine’s brisk core of red raspberry and cherry
fruit. Vibrant acidity and plentiful, framing tannins emerge on
the back-palate and segue the wine to its long finish tinged with
earth, cranberry and cinnamon notes. Delicious now, the wine has
structure to age gracefully over the coming three to five years
and allow its latent components to harmonize. Pair with roast chicken,
pork and duck, cedar plank salmon, and grilled vegetables.
2010 Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Pinot
Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 37.99/406.00
This year’s Domaine Drouhin Oregon Willamette Valley Pinot
Noir is truly amazing. The wine’s lovely crimson-garnet robe
leads to a beautiful Volnay-like nose of earthy cranberries, freshly
crushed raspberries, minerals and spice. Pure and focused on the
palate, the wine possesses a silky texture rare for 2010 vintage
alongside earthy, appetizing expressions of loganberries, autumnal
leaves and wintergreen. Transparent to the point that you feel like
you’re smelling the soil on which the wine was grown, the
wine finishes long, lacy and elegant with brilliant, high-toned
red fruits mingling with suggestions of rose petals, cinnamon and
subtle barrel notes of vanilla and coffee. Delicious and precocious,
the wine’s aromatic spectrum is already in full bloom, but
it conveys such a sense of balance as to ensure a decade’s
evolution in your cellar. Our vote for the most impressive DDO Willamette
Valley Pinot since the 1999, or maybe the otherworldly ’93
and ’98. A must-buy for all fans of DDO Pinot, and another
stunning success from Véronique Drouhin-Boss! Pair with broiled
salmon, roast duck and chicken and hearty potato preparations.
FRANCE – RED
2007 Triennes St. Auguste, Vin de Pays du Var, Provence, France
15.99/171.00
Triennes is the joint project of Aubert de Villaine and Jacques
Seysses, owners of Burgundy’s prestigious domaines Romanée-Conti
and Dujac, respectively. Using gentle Burgundian techniques, Seysses
and de Villaine fashion a splendid portfolio of wines from their
Provence estate just east of Aix-en-Provence. Trienne’s
St. Auguste is a smashing cuvée of 50% Syrah, 40% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 10% Merlot that beautifully fuses the warm lustiness
of Provence with the elegance of a fine Médoc. The 2007
St. Auguste marries the ripe cassis and black cherry notes from
the Cabernet Sauvignon with tar, black pepper and leather overtones
from the Syrah. A lovely hint of plum and bitter chocolate from
the Merlot adds depth and complexity. From start to finish, the
wine conveys the coolness and minerality true to its high-altitude,
rocky clay and chalk terroir. Twelve months aging in used barrels
rounds out the wine, softens its tannins and gives it an aristocratic
edge rarely found in wines from the Sud. Enjoy this stylish “Vargundy”
now or over the next three years with burgers, grilled chicken,
rosemary-infused lamb preparations, and Southern French recipes
featuring eggplant.
2009 Domaine Bressy-Masson, Rasteau, Côtes du Rhone Villages,
Southern Rhône Valley, France 15.99/171.00
Rasteau is revered for its bold Gigondas-like reds, and Bressy-Masson
again delivers with this gorgeously herb-scented masterpiece.
A translucent black-plum color, Bressy-Masson’s 2009 Rasteau
rouge opens with high-toned aromas of cinnamon, licorice and garrigue-inflected
black cherry and blackberry fruit. The wine then coats the palate
with sappy old-vine cherry and blackberry fruit complemented by
an undercurrent of stony terroir. Rich and bold, yet balanced
and utterly delicious, the wine performs more like a fine Châteauneuf-du-Pape
than a humble Côtes du Rhone Villages. A classic blend of
70% Grenache, 20% Carignan and 10% Syrah raised traditionally
in concrete, Bressy-Masson’s ’09 Rasteau is big, bold
and burly now, but has the stuffing and the balance to evolve
gracefully for five to seven years in your cool cellar. Pair with
grilled lamb, eggplant, burgers, and rich poultry.
2010 Domaine des Forges, Anjou-Villages, Les 3C, Vignoble Branchereau,
Loire Valley, France 13.99/149.50
So sweet: “Les 3C” on the label refers to the three
C’s of the Branchereau family, owners of the Domaine des
Forges: Claude, the grandfather; Corentin, the grandson; and Camille
the granddaughter. A blend of Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon, Forges’
Les 3C is a brilliant representation of the varietals as expressed
on the schistose soils of the Anjou. Translucent black-ruby in
the glass, the cuvée casts aromas of dried leaves, cured
meat, black currants, black pepper and herbs. Showing the beautiful
structure of the Loire Valley’s 2010 vintage, the wine alternates
waves of currant and cherry fruit, plentiful fine tannins, leafy
underbrush and smoky soil notes. Spicy and cinnamon-tinged on
the finish, the 3C presents further complex suggestions of bitter
chocolate, black cherries, Assam tea and salty minerals. Firmly
structured with chewy tannins, the wine is delicious and savory
today, but has the poise and the balance to reward five to seven
years’ aging in your cool cellar. Pair this superb Anjou-Villages
with cured meats, aged goat cheeses, braised rabbit and pork dishes,
and grilled beef. Another testament to the greatness of France’s
2010 vintage! Only twenty cases available.
2010 Pascal Aufranc, Juliénas,
Les Cerisiers, Vieilles Vignes, Beaujolais, Burgundy, France 12.99/139.00
Young Pascal Aufranc is rightfully renowned for his superb and
ageworthy Chénas Vieilles Vignes de 1939. Aufranc’s
Juliénas Les Cerisiers, named for the cherry trees that
grow near the vineyard which yields this wine, is Aufranc’s
most delicious and approachable cru. A lovely transparent garnet
hue, Aufranc’s Juliénas leaps out of the glass with
gorgeous aromas of cinnamon-spiced pie cherries, pepper and granite.
Firm tannins greet the palate alongside a focused core of cherry
fruit and crunchy granitic soil. Smoky, suave and lip-smackingly
delicious, the wine finishes with another lashing of the bright
cherry fruit that gives the wine its identity. This is serious
Beaujolais that’s also fun, delicious and convivial. You
can chatter about how it conveys that special, deep, underappreciated
full-bodied character of northern Beaujolais crus. Or you can
sip it with joy and simply relish in the wine’s unbridled
deliciousness. Either way, this wine’s a winner and a worthy
partner to roast chicken, seared duck breast, quail, mild cheeses
and potatoes au gratin. Enjoy now and over the coming five years.
ITALY - RED
2009 Rapalino, Barbera d’Alba,
Pian Romualdo, Piedmont, Italy 14.99/160.00
Federico Rapalino’s exemplary Barbera is among our customers’
favorite wines and one of the most successful selections in L&E
newsletter history. Just released, Rapalino’s 2009 Barbera
is a stunner. Rapalino has captured beautifully a sappy core of
sour cherry fruit complemented by the kind of mushroomy, sotto
bosco notes that make Piedmont fans weak in the knees. Pian Romualdo
is one of Barbera’s grand cru sites, and this wine proves
it. Rapalino’s transparent, ruby-colored 2009 Barbera casts
a ripe, effusive nose of blackberries, pie cherries, leather,
cinnamon and limestone soil. In the mouth, the wine’s palate-staining
blackberry and sour cherry fruit is complemented by earthy hints
of leather, tobacco, bay leaf, button mushrooms and loamy earth.
Delicious now with braised beef, oven roasted root vegetables,
egg-rich pastas, or grilled pork, Rapalino’s 2009 Barbera
will also cellar well for five to seven years and allow the wine’s
mushroom notes to blossom.
SPAIN - RED
2009 Bodegas Faustino, Faustino
VII, Rioja, Spain 10.99/117.50
Authentic old-school red Riojas are one of the great wonders of
the wine world, yet each year they seem to be more scarce. Bastions
of traditional Rioja, Bodegas Faustino’s Faustino VII bottling
is the entry point into the bodega’s classic portfolio.
A blend of 95% Tempranillo and 5% Mazuelo, the Faustino VII opens
with a brilliant black cherry robe followed by classic Rioja aromas
of blond tobacco, wild cherry fruit, and hints of spicy vanilla
bean. Broad on the attack, the Faustino VII complements its leafy
cherry fruit with complex nuances of camphor, leather, cigar tobacco,
cloves, cinnamon and smoky soil. Long and inviting, the wine’s
liqueur-like cherry fruit is seamlessly balanced by zesty acidity
and fine, framing tannins. This is a fresh, full-bodied and immensely
versatile wine that begs to be drunk with gusto. Serve with grilled
lamb, burgers, tapas, summer vegetables and roasts of beef. Superb,
traditional and distinctive Rioja for a song!
WHITE WINES
FRANCE – WHITE
2011 Michel Delhommeau, Muscadet, Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie,
Cuvée Harmonie, Loire Valley, France 13.99/149.50
Michel and Nathalie Delhommeau farm twenty-eight hectares in the
classic Muscadet region. Their Cuvée Harmonie hails from
old vines grown on a soil type called gabbro, a dark, coarse-grained
volcanic rock akin to basalt. The Delhommeau duo returns to these
pages for a third time with this delicious and aromatic rendition
from the precocious 2011 vintage. Pale lemon-gold in the glass,
Delhommeau’s Harmonie soars with salty and mineral-driven
aromas of lemon oil, gunflint and briny oyster shells. Deep and
balanced yet deliciously accessible for a young Muscadet, the
Harmonie’s texture is satisfyingly broad and refreshing
right out of the gate. Notes of grapefruit, Anjou pear, gooseberry
and lemongrass mingle with impressions of salty sea air and oyster
shell minerality. Long and savory, the wine finishes extraordinarily
fresh, vivacious and clean, and begs you to slurp another Belon
oyster or Littleneck clam, or take another bite of Dungeness crab
or sole in a beurre blanc sauce. Gorgeous Muscadet and a great
buy in intensely mineral, soil-driven white wine.
2010 Lucien Lardy, Chardonnay,
Beaujolais-Villages, Burgundy, France 12.50/133.50
Fleurie/Morgon/Moulin-à-Vent superstar Lucien Lardy grows
his Chardonnay on the southern border of Fleurie, where the soil
is sandy clay and ideal for the varietal. A brilliant lemon-gold
color, Lardy’s Chardonnay opens with pear, quince and yellow
plum fruit accented by a bright undercurrent of minerals. Showing
the brilliant balance of ripe fruit and bristling acidity that’s
the hallmark of Burgundy’s 2010 vintage, Lardy’s Chardonnay
continues with expressions of Crenshaw melon, raw hazelnuts and
lemon curd. Long, and mineral driven, the wine finishes with reprises
of sappy melon and pear fruit accented by white flowers, tangy
acidity and a persistent undercurrent of smoky minerals. Cru Beaujolais
has firmly infiltrated the cellars of most wine enthusiasts. The
true rara avis of Beaujolais is the appellation’s exemplary
white wine, which represents less than one percent of the region’s
total production. This is superb Chardonnay by any measure and
an absolutely incredible value. Drink now and over the coming
three years with roast chicken, broiled salmon, grilled halibut,
and rich gratin dauphinois.
2008 F. E. Trimbach, Pinot Blanc,
Alsace, France 13.99/149.50
Domaine Trimbach, continues their long string of superb releases
with this lovely entry-level Pinot Blanc from the classically
styled, mineral-driven 2008 vintage. Green-gold in color, Trimbach’s
’08 Pinot Blanc jumps out of the glass with smoky aromas
of apricot, lime zest and petrol. On the palate, the wine balances
brisk citrus and stone fruits with laser-sharp acidity and persistent
minerality. Hints of green pears, Pippin apples, dissolved minerals
and zippy acidity mark the long, clean and bone dry finish. The
Trimbach estate never misses, and this 2008 Pinot Blanc captures
the intense soil-driven nature of the vintage. Drink now or over
the next five years with grilled salmon, duck, choucroute garni,
pork, or hearty potato casseroles. A sensational value for a wine
of this caliber.
GERMANY – WHITE
1993 C. H. Berres, Wehlener Klosterberg,
Spätlese, Mosel, Germany 16.99/181.50
This 1993 Spätlese from the fine Wehlener Klosterberg vineyard
shows precisely what makes mature Mosel Riesling so special and
why it’s so relished by its devotees. Deep green-tinged
yellow-gold in the glass, Berres’ Klosterberg Spätlese
opens with classic Mosel Riesling matured aromas of petrol, brioche,
slate and buttered apples. Rich and buttery on the palate, the
wine’s acidity and residual sugar have melted into its core
of citrus, pear and apple fruit. A current of slate minerality
and acidity lifts the wine’s soft, buttery fruit. This wine
is now at its apogee and ready to drink tonight by itself or as
an accompaniment to sautéed vegetables, roast pork, sausages,
shellfish, cheeses…just about anything but perhaps wild
game meats. A great introduction to the wonders of mature Mosel
Riesling, enjoy this affordable wonder now and over the coming
ten years. Twenty cases available.
ITALY – WHITE
2010 Le Rote, Vernaccia di San
Gimignano, Tuscany, Italy 13.50/144.50
In a region dominated by red wines, Vernaccia stands as Tuscany’s
premier white wine. Vernaccia finds its singular voice in the
predominately sandy soils around the medieval hillside village
of San Gimignano. This succulent 2010 Vernaccia from Le Rote (roh-teh)
shows the serious side of the appellation. A brilliant golden
hue segues to expansive aromas of Bosc pears, beeswax and Mirabelle
plums. Bold and palate coating, the wine mingles waxy pear fruit
with suggestions of white pepper, sappy hops, wildflower honey
and bergamot. Sandy, flinty minerality transitions the wine to
its long, resinous, tactile finish. While the delicacy of most
Vernaccias command light seafood as their complement, Le Rote’s
old-vine rendition demands richer fare such as poultry, pork and
game birds, grilled prawns or steak-fishes such as swordfish,
ahi or opah. It will also pair well with salty cheeses such as
Pecorino. Enjoy this superb Vernaccia now and over the coming
year.
SPAIN – WHITE
2011 Bodegas Dinastia Vivanco,
Blanco, Rioja, Spain 12.50/133.50
Vivanco’s 2010 blanco is a smashing success of freshness,
character and vivacity. A blend of 70% Viura, 20% Malvasia Blanco
and 10% of the rare Tempranillo Blanco, the Vivanco opens with
a limpid lemon-gold hue and shimmering aromas of honeydew melon,
green apples and subtle grassy notes. Vibrant on the palate, the
waxy, resinous texture of the Viuria is complemented beautifully
by dazzling floral nuances imparted by the Malvasia and zippy
acidity of the Tempranillo Blanco. Fresh and brimming with energy,
the Vivanco Blanco finishes clean and zesty with lemony citrus
notes imbued with limestone minerality and hints of tangerine,
lime blossoms and juicy green melon. This is the most exhilarating,
modern-styled Rioja Blanco we’ve tasted in a long time,
and it’s the surprise, must-try wine of the newsletter.
Enjoy now and over the coming year by itself for this stunning
refreshment, or serve with seafood and vegetable tapas, fresh
goat’s milk cheeses, and vegetable frittatas.
SPARKLING WINE
ITALY – SPARKLING
2011 Gioacchino Garofoli, Guelfo
Verde, Vino Frizzante, Marches, Italy 9.50/101.50
This lightly sparkling white from the Marche region is our vote
for the best value, most charming sparkling party wine on the
market. Made from 30% Verdicchio and 70% Trebbiano, the Guelfo
Verde opens with a pale straw yellow color and aromas of green
melon, Bartlett pears, cinnamon and sugar snap peas. Dry, crisp
and irresistibly quaffable, the wine’s natural sparkle –
frizzante! – lifts the wine’s pear and melon fruit
and elevates its refreshment quotient. It’s really quite
futile to try to analyze this wine: it’s simply so good
that one sip and one glance at its price tag will have you buying
this by the case for quaffing over the coming warm weather months.
Enjoy as your wine for toasting at spring and summer celebrations,
or pair it with light fish dishes, antipasti, and mild semi-firm
cheeses
ROSÉ WINES
FRANCE –
ROSÉ
2011 André Dezat, Sancerre,
Rosé, Loire Valley, France 18.99/203.00
One sip and you’ll understand the slavish devotion André
Dezat’s wines have earned from wine lovers in Europe and
the UK. Dezat’s rosé – fashioned from 100%
Pinot Noir grown on Sancerre’s white chalky soils –
is a classic of the genre: a gleaming orange-salmon color followed
by aromas of flinty minerals, golden raspberries, strawberries
and white meadow flowers. Chalky and rivetingly acidic, the wine
stains the palate with brisk raspberry fruit followed by notes
of rhubarb and freshly ground white pepper. Juicy, yet brimming
with electric energy, the wine finishes clean, brisk and mouth-watering.
This is simply brilliant Sancerre rosé and a rare value
at less than $20 a bottle! Buy enough to get you through the coming
year. You’ll enjoy this beauty by itself after a hard day’s
work, or paired with just about anything except assertive washed-rind
cheeses.
2011 Château de Pampelonne,
Côtes de Provence, Rosé, Provence, France 14.99/160.00
From France’s premier rosé territory, we’re
delighted to have this new addition on our shelves and in our
newsletter. A blend of 40% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 20% Syrah and
10% Tibouren, Pampelonne’s rosé opens with a peach-orange
robe and classic Provençal rosé aromas of herb-
and stone-infused strawberry and raspberry fruit. Suggestions
of dried orange peel segue the wine to a lush, creamy palate marked
by notes of fresh raspberries, tangelo and ruby grapefruit. Juicy
and refreshing, the wine slakes the thirst and leaves the palate
fresh, revived and begging for another bite of grilled prawns,
bouillabaisse, fennel-stuffed branzino, salmon tartare, sashimi
and grilled pork. Thank goodness for an honest, authentic Provençal
rosé that satisfies on all levels and doesn’t break
the bank. Enjoy now and over the coming year. Limited: only twenty
cases available.
WEB EXTRAS: Read the
reviews online
NV Vincent Girault, Clos de la Briderie, Crémant
de Loire, Pureté de Silex Brut, Loire Valley, France ...
16.99/181.50
2011 Bernard Burle, Font Sarade,
Viognier Le Blanc, Vin de Pays de Vaucluse, Southern Rhône
Valley, France 13.50/144.50
2005 Fattoria di Petroio, Chianti Classico,
Riserva, Tuscany, Italy ... 24.99/267.00 reg. 30.99
This symbol indicates a naturally farmed wine |
LINER
& ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St.
Portland, OR 97210
800-903-9463
503-241-9463
website
e-mail
HOURS: Mon.-Sat. 10-6
CLOSED: Weds., July 4
FRIDAY
TASTINGS:
First and third Friday
of the month
5:30-7:30 p.m. Fee
July 6
Let’s celebrate the real start of summer: Our semi-annual
Champagne blast.
July 20 Viogniers from around
the world.
August 3 Come find out
why Donhoff is considered one of the greatest Riesling producers
in Germany, if not the world.
SATURDAY
TASTINGS:
Weekly; Starts at
12 noon. No fee
June 30 Avinyó
Blanc Pétillant, V. Girault Clos de la Briderie Crémant
de Loire, and San Martino Aglianico del Vulture Siir. From
Oregon: Ayres Vineyard Perspective Pinot Noir and J.K.
Carrière Provocateur Pinot Noir.
July 7 Aurelian
Fiardet from Terroir Originals will pour superlative wines from
France. Plus: Mike DeMarte from Zancanella Imports pours: Cédrick
Bardin Sancerre, Lucien Lardy Chardonnay Beaujolais-Villages,
and Rapalino Barbera d’Alba Pian Romualdo.
July 14 From Italy: Garofoli
Guelfo Verde Vino Frizzante and Le Rote Vernaccia di San Gimignano.
From France: Dom. des Forges Anjou-Villages Les 3C, Ch. de Pampelonne
Côtes de Provence Rosé, and Triennes St. Auguste
Vin de Pays du Var. Plus: we pour our Loire Valley Sampler.
July 21 La belle France: V.
Girault Clos de la Briderie Crémant de Loire, André
Dezat Sancerre Rosé, M. Delhommeau Muscadet Harmonie,
Trimbach Pinot Blanc, Bernard Burle Font Sarade Viognier, and
Bressy-Masson Rasteau.
July 28 Superb wines
from far and near: C. H. Berres Wehlener Klosterberg Spätlese,
Bodegas Faustino Faustino VII Rioja, Bodegas Dinastia Vivanco
Rioja. From Oregon: Lange Estate Pinot Noir and Domaine Drouhin
Oregon Pinot Noir.
SPECIAL
EVENTS THIS MONTH:
Fattoria Petroio Wine
Dinner with Diana Lenzi
At Bastas Trattoria
Tuesday, July 17 7:00 p.m.
Join Petroio’s Diana Lenzi
of Fattoria Petroio for a very special Tuscan wine dinner. The
superb wines of Petroio will be paired with the great cuisine
of chef-owner Marco Frattaroli.
Price: $65 per person, inclusive. Seating is limited. Please
contact L&E for your reservations. Payment confirms your
reservation.
Tasting Event at L&E
with
Philippe Guillanton of Chateau Margüi
Tuesday, July 24 from 5:00-7:00 p.m.
Please join Philippe Guillanton of Ch. Margüi
in Provence and Mike DeMarte of Zancanella Imports for an informal
tasting of superb Provencal wines from this esteemed estate.
We will feature their rightly famous rose, white, and red wines.
No reservations needed. Tasting fee $5.
Closed Weds., July 4
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