Rabelais - Fine Books on Food & Drink   

    Fresh Arrivals, no. 30              May 22nd, 2013


So what's new in old cookbooks? Lots right now. We've been cataloging as fast as we can, and so bring you another short list of assorted works from five centuries of food and drink. It's an even longer time frame if you consider that Athenaeus was published in 1597, but written in the third century AD, and refers to chefs and other culinary writers from many centuries prior to that, including Mithaecus, who is credited with the oldest recipe by a named author in any language. Some less obscure giants of cooking are represented here as well, including Massialot, Hannah Glasse, and Prosper Montagne. And then there are some oddities - our favorite bits - including an early Camp Fire Girls cookbook, an unrecorded Massachusetts candy and cake recipe book, a raw foods cookbook, and a Swedish vegetarian cookbook. And more.  Enjoy!

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1.   Athenaeus, of Naucratis.
Athenaiou Deipnosophiston biblia pentekaideka = Athenaei Deipnosophistarum libri XV.  Cura & studio Isaaci Casauboni, bibliothecae Palatinae, Vaticanae, aliarumque ope, auctiores  emendatioresque editi.  Cum interpretatione Latina Jacobi Dalechampii Cadomensis.  Adiecti sunt Indices rerum, scriptorum, proveriorum, vocum, accuratissimi. 
[Heidelberg]: Apud Hieronymum Commelinum, 1597.  Folio, 36cm,  702, [50] pages.  Index.  Text printed in Latin and Greek in parallel columns. 

One of the most important works of late classical antiquity dealing with food, wine and table customs, dating from the third century A.D.  The book is a fictionalized symposium of 21 artists, writers, musicians and surgeons, discussing all things which, according to Greek custom, should adorn a banquet.  The names of the most famous gastronomists and most celebrated cooks are recorded, and the text of a recipe from a lost cookbook by Mithaecus is quoted -- the earliest recipe by a named author in any language.  The virtues and qualities of various wines are the subjects of lengthy discourses.  Table ornament and decoration are also treated.  Full leather with raised bands and gilt-lettered spine. Some rubbing and chipping to leather extremities, minor damage and text loss to final leaf of index, else VG+ or better, a clean and tightly-bound copy. This copy is from the library of English politician and philologist John Horne Tooke (1736-1812). 

[Bitting, pages 18-19; Cagle 448; Crahan,  One Hundred Sixteen Uncommon Books on Food & Drink 8].  $3000.00

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2.  [Massialot, Francois].
Nouvelle Instruction pour les Confitures, les Liqueurs, et les Fruits : Ou l'on apprend a confire toutes sortes de Fruits, tant secs que liquides; & divers Ouvrages de Sucre qui  sont du fait des Officiers & Confiseurs; avec la maniere de bien ordonner un Fruit.  Suite du Nouveau Cuisinier Royal et Bourgeois, egalement utile aux Maitres d'Hotels & dans les Familles, pour savoir ce qu'on sert de plus a la mode dans les Repas.  Tomme Troisieme. Nouvelle edition, Revue, corrigee, & beaucoup augmentee, Avec de nouveaux Desseins de Tables. 
Amsterdam: Aux Depens de la Compagnie, 1734.   4 leaves, [4], 362, [20] pp.  Three folding plates.  Index.

A rare early edition of Massialot's famous book on preserves, first published in 1692.  The author (ca. 1660-1733) was chef de cuisine to various French nobles, including the brother of Louis XIV and the dukes of Chartres, Orleans and Aumont.  His works were published anonymously and not widely circulated among the general public, but they were highly regarded by professional chefs and thus exerted a good deal of influence on the development of French cuisine.  The first section of this work discusses all aspects of making preserves, beginning with an explanation of selecting and clarifying sugar. The second chapter discusses the necessary utensils, and the third outlines, month by month, what fruits and flowers are in season and what preserves can be made from them. The chapters that follow discuss specific fruits and flowers, with recipes for their use in preserves, jellies, marmalades, tarts and fruit pies. The author concludes with a chapter on problems that may arise when making preserves and ways to remedy them.  The second part is devoted to recipes for liqueurs and the preparation of waters and beverages for each season.  The final section is an interesting discussion of fruit, where one learns the quality, merit and maturity of all sorts of fruits and how to serve them.  Light brown half-leather and paper covered boards, with raised bands and gilt-lettered morocco spine label. Boards well-rubbed and edge worn, small chip missing from corner of spine label (slightly affecting the "I" in "Instruction"). Modern bookplate to front pastedown, staining to several pages, otherwise a clean and tightly bound copy, better than good.

[Worldcat locates only two copies of this Amsterdam imprint, neither in North American collections; see Cagle 323; see Oberle 94-96; Vicaire 455].  $1000.00

also see banquet image at top  

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3.  Glasse, H. [Hannah].
The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy.  To Which are Added, One Hundred and Fifty New Receipts, A Copious Index, and a Modern Bill of Fare, for each Month, in the Manner the Dishes are placed upon the Table. 
Edinburgh: Printed for Alexander Donaldson, 1781.  Octavo,  vi, [18], 440, [24] pages.  Folding table.  Index.

Scarce Edinburgh edition of the most successful and influential English cookbook of the eighteenth century.  Hannah Glasse (1708-1770) was the wife of an attorney and the mother of eight children, and she published the first edition of her Art of Cookery -- a work she boasted "far exceeds any Thing of the Kind ever yet published" -- in 1747.  It went through eight editions in her lifetime and was not supplanted as a culinary authority until the work of Mrs. Isabella Beeton appeared in 1861.  The folding table that is published in this volume first appeared in a "new" edition in 1774.  Later full leather, with corners refreshed, gilt-lettered spine. Previous owner's bookplate to front pastedown, preliminary pages moderately foxed and with scattered light foxing to text, light additional wear, overall very good .

[Worldcat locates only a single copy,  at the Schlesinger Library; Cagle 695-706].   $1000.00 

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4.  Briggs, Richard.
The New Art of Cookery; According to the Present Practice; Being a Complete Guide to all Housekeepers, on a Plan Entirely New; consisting of Thirty-eight Chapters ....  With Bills of Fare for every Month in the Year, Neatly and Correctly Printed. 
Boston: Printed for W. Spotswood, 1798.  Octavo, xxiii, [1], 444 pp.  Twenty-four additional pages of illustrations of monthly bills of fare.  Table of contents.

Second American edition, improved. Briggs is identified on the title page as "many years cook at the Globe Tavern, Fleet-Street, the White Hart Tavern, Holborn, and now principal of the Temple Coffee-House, London."  The first edition of his English Art of Cookery was published in London in 1788, and the book quickly crossed the Atlantic to the newly independent United States.  The first American edition of the New Art of Cookery was published in Philadelphia in 1792, and this improved, second American edition soon followed.  An interesting case study in the transmission of texts. All early editions of Briggs's work are quite scarce. Period full leather, rebacked with modern leather and period gilt-lettered spine label. Paper age-toned, hinges repaired and reinforced, older leather well-rubbed, two leaves with closed tears, overall near very good. 

[Lowenstein 25; see also Axford, page 90; Bitting, page 60].   $2250.00

#4             #5 

5.  Copley, Esther [Hewlett].
The Housekeeper's Guide, or a Plain & Practical System of Domestic Cookery.  
London: Printed for Jackson & Walford, 1834.  Small octavo,  xi, 407 pages. Engraved frontispiece, additional engraved title page, Four (of five) additional leaves of engraved plates.  Index.

First edition. Esther Hewlett Copley (1786-1851), the daughter of a wealthy silk merchant, turned to writing to support her family when her minister husband succumbed to the temptations of alcohol.  She became a prolific author of household management and cooking texts, as well as an active member of the abolitionist movement.  Contemporary three-quarter leather and marbled boards, with raised bands and gilt-lettered spine. Paper age-toned, and edgeworn in some cases. This copy lacking one of five plates on carving called for in the bibliographies, otherwise very good. A tightly bound and sound copy .

[Not in Attar; Axford, page 213; Bitting, pages 98-99; Cagle 635; Crahan 529].  $450.00

6.   Trall, Robert, M. D.
The New Hydropathic Cook-Book; with Recipes for Cooking on Hygienic Principles. 
New York: Published by Samuel R. Wells, 1873.  Octavo, 226, [14] pages. Ads.

A later printing of the 1863 revised edition.  A classic early American vegetarian cook book from this important figure in the American water cure movement. Trall raises objections to such popular household authors as Catherine Beecher (too much wine) and Mrs. Hale (too much meat): "If the trade of butchering animals for food has a tendency to imbrute the minds of those engaged in it, certainly the dressing up of a pig's head for the table, so as to resemble as nearly as possible the shape, form, features, and *expression* of a live pig, is equally vitiating to all true delicacy and refinement." Original blind-stamped cloth, gilt lettering. Some spotting and light staining to the cloth. A very good copy.

[Atwater 3581; see Cagle 754-756 & Lowenstein 636 (for the 1854 edition)].  $150.00

7.   Allen, H.B.
The Useful Companion and Artificer's Assistant. A Complete Encyclopaedia of Valuable Information, Including Thousands of Valuable Recipes, Formulas Processes, Trade Secrets, ... of great service to Inventors, Model-Makers... 
New York: Empire State Publishing, 1878.  Thick octavo, 701 pages, with index + ad. Frontispiece portrait and numerous wood engraved cuts.

This appears to be a second printing, preceded only by an 1876 printing. A household recipe or formula book with sections on cookery, alcohol, confectionery, the grocer's trade, taxidermy, silver and goldsmithing, telegraphy and much more. Scientific American called it "Undoubtedly the cheapest work of its kind ever published." A few small dog ears, otherwise very good in publisher's blind and gilt-stamped purple cloth, with a bit of sunning and some slight wear to the head and foot of the spine.  $250.00

8.  Pitkin, Eliza A & Julia A. Pye.
Invalid Cookery, a Manual of Recipes for the Preparation of Food for the Sick and Convalescent, to which is Added a a chapter on Practical Suggestions for the Sickroom by Mrs. Julia A. Pye. 
Chicago: by the author/Press of Knight & Leonard, 1880.  Octavo, 127 pages.

First edition. A collection of recipes for purportedly easy to digest foods for the convalescent. Includes interesting sections on waters, wheys and gruels. Light foxing to some pages. A bit of abrasion to the fore edge of the front board, otherwise near fine in publisher's bland and gilt-stamped brown cloth.

[Axford page 229; Brown 686; Cagle 608].   $90.00

9.  [Naomi Donnelley, anonymously].
The Home-Made Cook Book. A Complete Manual of Practical,  Economical, Palatable, Healthful and Useful Cookery. 
New York: M.J. Ivers and Co., 1885.  Octavo-sized, 47 pages. A small household manual, originally issued by Donnelley in Chicago in 1878. All pages browned and somewhat brittle. Some chipping to wrapper edges and spine. Illustrated wrappers printed in black and red.

[Brown 2447; Worldcat locates only 4 copies of all editions].  $90.00

10.  Welch, Deshler.
The Bachelor and the Chafing Dish. With a Dissertation on Chums. Containing some valuable recipes gathered from fascinating sources in cookery - triumphs of well-known bon vivants in clubs, yachting circles, army and navy, and the dreams of fair women - Heaven Bless 'Em! 
New York / Chicago: F. Tennyson Neely, 1896.  Octavo, 141 pages + [5] ads. Illustrated.

First edition, second printing. An amusing mixture of recipe collection and narrative stories illustrating the fine life a gentleman can lead with a chafing dish. Welch was a literary and theater critic and a regular contributor to Harper's Magazine. Spine a bit darkened, still near fine in publisher's silver, gilt and brown stamped green cloth.   $60.00


11.  Andersson, Richard.
Vegetarisk Kokbok. En handledning i konsten att, till batnad fur helsa och kassa, pa ett smakligt satt tillgodogora vart bord tradgardens och akerns alster. 
Stockholm: Gustaf Chelius, 1897.  Octavo, 150 pages +[10 ads].

Second printing, originally issued in 1895. A small Swedish vegetarian cookbook, indexed. Some age toning to the text block, and the binding a bit shaken. publisher's original red stamped green cloth. Early ownership signature to front paste down. Near very good. Scarce.

[Worldcat locates only two copies of this second issue, and only one in the US, at the American Academy of Medicine; one copy only of the first edition is located, at the National Library of Sweden].  $200.00 

12.  Huling, Charles C.
American Candy Maker.  
Philadelphia: by the author/ George H. Buchanan & Co., 1902.  Octavo, 342, [14] pages. Ads.

First edition. A thorough recipe book for a wide variety of classic American candies. With advertisements for a variety of suppliers of confectioners' ingredients and equipment. The preface includes two interesting addresses: one to the workmen, encouraging them to cooperate with their bosses and not sulk if denied a requested wage hike, another to the boss, encouraging less yelling and cleaner, better lit workrooms. Previous owner's small ink name stamp to decorated front paste down and to title page, otherwise fine, in blind and gilt stamped burgundy cloth.

[Not in Bitting or Cagle; Worldcat locates 7 copies, just 5 in the US].  $200.00 

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13.  Christian, Eugene  & Mollie Griswold Christian.   

Uncooked Foods & How to Use Them, A Treatise on How to Get the Highest Form of Animal Energy From Food. With Recipes for Preparation, Healthful Combinations and Menus.    

New York: The Health Culture Company,  (1904).  Small octavo, 246 pages.  


Stated fifth edition, revised and enlarged, of this early raw food cookbook. The argument tends to be twofold: that early man ate raw foods, and it was good enough for him; and that cooking saps food of its nutrients. With an interesting collection of recipes. Previous owner's ownership inscription to front fly, and a bit of spotting to the publisher's gilt stamped dark blue boards, otherwise near fine.  $90.00


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14.   [Yates, Augusta].  

Key to the Pantry. Choice, Tried Recipes. Second Edition.   
Richmond, Va.: The Hermitage Press, 1907.  Octavo, 236 pages. Indexed.

Second edition of this southern church cookbook, following the 1898 Danville, Virginia issue. This second edition does not mention that the original compilers were the Ladies of the Church of the Epiphany, although the recipes are attributed.  Danville sits right on the border of North Carolina and Virginia. A few small stains throughout, but otherwise clean and tight, in very sharp and clean, black and gold stamped green cloth. Very good.

[Worldcat locates just four copies of this edition, and five of the earlier Danville imprint; not in Brown or Cagle; Cook page 260 (both editions)].  $250.00


15.  Ewart, Nellie E[lizabeth].
Cake and Candy. 
Arlington, MA: Sidebottom Bros., Printers, circa 1910.  Sewn pamphlet, unpaginated [16] pages.

First and only edition. A charming, and handsomely produced little booklet of recipes for cakes and candies. Some favorite ingredients include marshmallow, maple and coconut. Internally fine, on laid, watermarked paper, sewn on green cord. Printed gray wrapper, has a bit of very light chipping to the fore edge. Rare. Unrecorded.

[Worldcat locates no copies].   $250.00

16.  Rhode Island State Federation of Women's Clubs.
Housekeeper's Manual. Department of Home Economics of the Rhode Island State Federation of Women's Clubs. 
Providence: Rhode Island State Federation of Women's Clubs, 1913.  Octavo-sized stapled booklet, 70 pages. Advertisements.

First edition. A cooperative effort of this women's club federation, founded in 1895. Beyond recipes, there is advice for menu planning, feeding children in a school environment, budgeting, making garments from patterns and other household requirements. There is even a short list of suggested further reading. Tiny bit of soiling to front panel of wrapper, otherwise near fine. Scarce.

[Worldcat locates only one copy].  $150.00

17.  South Boston [Va.] Baptist Church.
South Boston Cook Book. 
Richmond, VA: The William Byrd Press, circa 1915.  Octavo, 144 pages. Index. Advertisements.

First edition. Despite the name, this is a Virginia church cookbook, from South Boston, a neighborhood of Richmond. Many of the recipes are attributed to the contributors, and the dishes seem representative of the region. Lots of oysters, smothered birds and rabbits, and biscuits. Some light wear and light soiling to the white painted-cloth boards, otherwise very good. Scarce.

[Worldcat locates just two copies; Cook page 261].   $120.00 

18.  Girls of the Tatapochon Camp Fire.
Tatapochon Economical and War Recipes. 
Brattleboro, VT.: Tatapochon Camp Fire Girls, 1918.  Octavo, 32 pages.

First and only edition. A slim wartime community cookbook, issued by a local Camp Fire Girls group at the tail end of the Great War. The Camp Fire Girls are listed, and the recipes are quite detailed, with precisely measured ingredients and clear steps. Staining throughout, but text is always legible. Printed brown wrappers chipped and split at the spine fold, but complete. A good copy.

[Worldcat locates only one copy, at the University of Vermont, Bailey Library].   $60.00  

19.  Ladies Aid Society, Methodist Episcopal Church, and, Congregational Church - United, Staffordville, Connecticut.
Cook Book ...from... The Ladies Aid Society, Methodist Episcopal Church, and, Congregational Church - United, Staffordville, Connecticut. [What to Cook and How to Cook It]. 
Staffodville, CT: Ladies Aid Society, 1920.  Octavo-sized, cord-tied pamphlet, [16] pages. Advertisements.

First edition. The ices and ice creams section is most appealing, and includes a Nesselrode Pudding, which seems worth making when the weather warms up a bit. Fine in printed gray wrappers, tied with a red cord. Unrecorded.

[Worldcat locates no copies; not in Brown or Cagle]  $75.00 

20.  Montagn�, Prosper & Dr. A. Gottschalk.
Mon menu. Guide d'hygi�ne alimentaire contenant plus de 600 recettes de cuisine m�nag�re, avec indication en regard de chaque recette, de ses effets sur l'organisme selon le temp�rament et l'�tat de sant�. Pr�c�d� d'une �tude sur les bases de l'alimentation humaine par le Docteur A. GOTTSCHALK. 
Paris: Ste d'Application Scientifiques, circa 1930.  Octavo, 445 pages.

Tenth thousand. A convalescent and health cookbook organized by menus, with nutritional information for each, from the author of the Larousse Gastronomique and Le Grand Livre de la Cuisine, and along with Careme and Escoffier, one of the France's three most influential culinary figures. Age-toned throughout, and some pages brittle, but otherwise very good, in original black and red printed wrappers with some chipping to head of spine. Overall near very good. Quite scarce.

[Not in Bitting or Cagle; Worldcat locates just 5 copies].  $90.00

21.  Orwell, George.
Down and Out In Paris And London. 
New York: Harper and Brothers, Publishers, 1933.  Octavo, 292 pages.

First American Edition.  A fictionalized account of Orwell's time as a dishwasher in Paris and a tramp in London. The book was thrust into the food writing world when Anthony Bourdain declared it a favorite book and an inspiration for his Kitchen Confidential. An indulgent kitchen staff is nothing new, as Orwell notes,  "the power of swallowing quarts of wine, and then sweating it out before it can do much damage, is one of the compensations of [this] life." Small bookplate to the undecorated side of the free front endpaper, otherwise very good. Lacking the scarce dust jacket, but a facsimile jacket us supplied, just for fun.  $550.00 

22.  Cook, Ann.
Ann Cook and Friend.  With an Introduction and Notes by Regula Burnet. 
London: Oxford University Press, 1936.  Octavo, xxxv, [1], 161 pages. Frontispiece.  Index.

First edition thus.   A fascinating work that illuminates the intersection of women's studies and food studies.  Ann Cook and Friend transcribes portions of the 1760 third edition of Mrs. Cook's Professed Cookery, in which the author appended a lengthy and misnamed "Plan of Housekeeping" to her collection of recipes.  The "Plan" offers an account of her life in service and of her experiences as an innkeeper's wife at Hexham and Morpeth in the north of England.   Mrs. Cook then veers away from autobiography to present the life and love-story of her friend "Abigail," before returning to her own trials and tribulations. These combined women's stories present a unique picture of country life in eighteenth-century England and make this work a minor early feminist classic.  This modern edition is rounded out with forty pages of recipes from Mrs. Cook's work. Brown cloth with gilt-lettered spine; in the scarce pictorial dust jacket. Jacket chipped along top edge and a trifle worn, otherwise very good or better. 

[Axford, page 13; Bitting, page 69; Maclean, p.35; Oxford, p.91].  $125.00

We've recently acquired a collection of more than 300 19th & 20th Century bee books, previously the property of a New Hampshire apiarist. They will be out in the store in the next few weeks. Please contact us if you're seeking something particular, or come visit to browse.

Rabelais Inc.   Fine Books on Food & Drink 
2 Main Street, 18-214
Biddeford, Maine 04005


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