For white Burgundy fans 2008 is not a vintage to be missed and it is drinking beautifully now.
Wine Spectator describes the 2008s: "If your taste runs to racy and intense middle weight wines
that possess generous mid-palate concentration braced against firm acidities and agreeably dry finishes, you will be well-
served to buy the '08s"
Robert Parker agrees, bestowing top compliments to the vintage: "The 2008 vintage in Burgundy is turning out to be another "sleeper" year in quality, perhaps along the lines of 2001." - Robert Parker
Allen Meadows of Burghound Burgundy's recognized most involved and knowledgable journalist writes, "Honorable mention should be awarded to Pernand-Vergelesses
where a number of attractive and agreeable whites were produced that deliver outstanding quality for a reasonable price." - Allen Meadows, Burghound
Meadows follows this pronouncement with a rave review of the wine at hand from Domaine du Chateau de Chorey:
"2008 Pernand-Vergelesses "Les Combottes": (25% new oak). This is also extremely fresh and bright with an appealing
nose of citrus, green fruit and floral hints that lead to nicely detailed, intense and energetic medium-bodied flavors that deliver
an agreeably dry, clean and persistent finish. This is very Pernand in character and worth considering." -Allen Meadows, Burghound
Benoit Germain, the brilliant proprietor and winemaker here is energetic, intelligent and his knowledge about Burgundy is encyclopedic and each time I visited him I get a geography lesson lesson on the great Burgundy vineyards.
And, the other thing I get to do is taste his superb Pernand Vergelesses. It is one of my favorite white Burgundies. It is viscous, and rich with minerality and honey and lively, fresh, citrus fruits. It is pure and zaftig. It drips with flavor and minerality. And, it is reasonably priced for excellent white Burrgundy. You won't feel deprived that you can't open a Meursault or Puligny Montrachet every night; you will feel smart that you have discovered a Burgundy insiders little gem.
There is a village in the Cote de Beaune of about 350 people, nestled to the side of the famous Grand Cru hill of Corton, which few people talk about and much fewer visit. Its name is Pernand-Vergelesses (don't pronounce the "d" and the "g" is soft). They make a Chardonnay there that I've been devoted to for the last twenty years. Devoted to because it reminds me of those glorious, exhilarating, but pricey Burgundy whites like Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet.
The village of Pernand-Vergelesses has one Grand Cru vineyard called En Charlemagne which lies inside its borders. If the wine coming from the vineyard is white, Corton-Charlemagne goes on the label and if the wine is red, Corton will be on the label. These are very rarefied wines with prices to match. Think $150 and up per bottle for the Grand Cru Whites.
Benoit Germain makes his Pernand-Vergelesses from a vineyard north of the village called Les Combottes which is right next to En Charlemagne. Same soil, same slope, same level on the hill.
As I've said, Pernand-Vergelesses blanc is not a wine you're going to be bumping into every day -- for one thing the reds from this area out-number the whites about five to one -- and for another, Benoit does not make very much of it, but you will run into Benoit's Pernand-Vergelesses at Taillevent and La Tour d'Argent, just to mention a few of the world's most famous eateries where he is on the list.
So, can't you just make a bit more room in the cellar for this Pernand-Vergelesses? I guarantee you, it won't be taking up space for very long. -Cynthia Hurley
