Let's address the elephant in the room. Everybody repeat after me in a loud, confident manner, "mor·veh·druh." Mourvèdre is the grape everyone loves but fears because they don't want to struggle with the name. The wine is most likely to have its origin in Spain, also known as Mataro and Monastrell, the second most planted grape to that of Tempranillo. In France, it is the major grape of Southern France and a significant component, one of the three principal grapes in Chateauneuf du Pape. So popular is the magical Rhone Blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre that they are often referred to by the acronym of GSM on the label in Australia and California. So popular were the Rhone blends that they created a whole alternative subculture in California called the Rhone Rangers, featuring Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. (Led by the likes of Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon in Santa Cruz and John Alban of Alban Vineyards in the Central Coast.) They became popular due to an unrestricted diet of Cabernet and Chardonnay, and producers and consumers were desperate for new flavors. The warm spiciness of Rhône reds was distinctly appealing, so Syrah vines went into the ground pretty rapidly, while old plantings of Mataro (Mourvedre) took on a new look.

When the Ranger movement came along, Fred Cline of Cline Cellars held the keys to old vine Mourvèdre. He began making wines in 1982 from the family's Big Break Vineyard in Oakley, which was planted in 1909. Even after moving the main winery to Carneros in 1991 and expanding his selection of wines, Cline worked with that old dry-farmed vineyard containing Zinfandel, Carignane, and, as it was then called, Mataro (Mourvèdre). Those vineyards, like others in and near Oakley in Contra Costa, were planted on sandy soils, which is the reason they are phylloxera-free and the primary reason these vines can get so old. Cline winery is now one of the largest holders of 100-year-old vineyards in California.

Cline's Mourvèdre vineyards are planted in deep, sandy soil between the San Joaquin and Sacramento Rivers, where cool breezes help the grapes retain a refreshing acidity. The combination of low average rainfall and fast-draining soil further limits the production of the vines. There is no precise definition, but old vines are generally considered at least 50 years old. Cline uses the term ancient vines because the vines are more than 100 years old. 

What's so special about old vine wines? When a vine is around 20 to 25 years old, the amount of grapes it produces starts decreasing and the quality goes up. By the time it hits 80 or 100, its crop will be very meager indeed, and if you're a farmer getting paid by the ton for your fruit, that's a problem. Also, California's extremely old vineyards are almost always planted with varieties that pay less in the first place. Zinfandel (a common old vine wine), for instance, averages about $700 a ton in California, whereas Cabernet is about $1,400. Development also adds pressure, particularly in a robust housing market. A nearby neighbor to Cline's Oakley Ranch were the head-trained vines of Salvador Vineyard, home to Carignane, Zinfandel, and Mataro. They were planted in 1896, less than two miles from the Sacramento-San Joaquin River Delta. The vineyard was considered one of the finest in the area. Unfortunately, the vines were ripped out last year, replaced by a housing development now nearing completion. Without any apparent regard for irony that this once home to California's oldest vines, the developer, Meritage Homes, is calling the housing complex "The Vines." Priced at $800,000 for a 4 bedroom, 3 bath, 2 car garage. Cline's deep-rooted, head-trained vines have survived threats from drought, Prohibition, and phylloxera; they now face their biggest threat yet: development. Some home builders are offering over $500,000 an acre for the land, but the Clines have refused to sell, opting to protect their ancient vines.

If you love flavor-packed red wines, it's a sure bet you'll like Mourvèdre. This tiny, tannic variety, also sometimes referred to as Mataro or Monastrell, packs a serious punch. And if you're a frequent full-bodied red blend drinker, you may have already consumed more of it than you think in your favorite Southern Rhone blends and Spanish wines. Now that you're not afraid to pronounce this Ancient Varietal (see paragraph one), it's time to stock up on this fun wine at a great price.

Dark red with purple hues. Aromas of plum, mocha, boysenberry, cedar, and cinnamon. Full-bodied with well-balanced acid. Luscious, juicy, and chewy tannins.



Flavors of mulberry, black cherry, Doris plum, dark chocolate, coffee grounds, and fresh cedar. The finish is long, juicy, and chewy.

Because the 2020 Cline Ancient vine Mourvèdre was recently released and the wines have just been submitted for professionals to taste, there are no current reviews on this wine. The past four vintages have consistently received 90 points or above from major publications.

2019 Cline Mourvèdre 90 pts Wine Enthusiast, Best Buy

Quite ripe and packed with black-fruit flavors, this full-bodied, smooth wine also adds notes of chocolate, vanilla, and cinnamon for extra complexity. It's mouth-filling and luxurious in texture. 

2018 Cline Mourvèdre 90 pts Wine.com

The 2018 Cline Ancient Vines Mourvèdre is an excellent wine with a slightly rounded palate and plenty of fruit on the finish. This wine shines on with appealing grapey, black fruit nuances in its aromas and flavors.

2017 Cline Mourvèdre 90 pts Robert Parkers Wine Advocate

Medium to deep ruby-purple, the 2017 Mourvèdre Ancient Vines opens with notes of tar and potting soil over charcuterie, olive, fried herbs, cocoa, and a core of baked blackberries and black cherries plus a hint of blue fruit. Medium to full-bodied, it gives up luscious dark fruits in the mouth, with a firm frame of lightly chewy tannins and great freshness, finishing long and savory.

2016 Cline Mourvèdre 92 pts Wine Enthusiast, Best Buy

This full-bodied wine reveals a bit of the feral, earthy, meaty character of Mourvèdre and backs it with palate-pleasing, ripe berry and plum flavors that anyone can enjoy. Moderate tannins are nicely interlaced in the mouthfilling texture.

Cline Ancient Vine Mourvèdre 2020

I can honestly say I can't remember the last time I tried Cline Ancient Vine Mourvèdre. It is indeed a wine that demands more of my attention. Tim and I tried the wine and found it done in Cline's style, which is clean, and opulent. Dark fruit on the nose, some tar aromas. Silky fruit is immediate on the palate, dark brooding fruit, molasses with some earth tones, medium-bodied, fine tannins balanced by sneaky acid. The finish was long enough to be considered just right and not overbearing. A promising sign of how balanced a glass of wine is when you think the wine is moderate in alcohol when you look at the label and am surprised to see it is 15%. If you want to be introduced to Mourvèdre, this is a great wine to start. If you are a fan of Spanish and Southern Rhone wines, this is a great wine to finish with. A holiday warmer at $10 a bottle is a better gift than slippers. 

Regular Price: $14.99

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Final cost is $10 after MIR

Wine is packed in a 12-bottle case

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Cheers!

John Hannum,

Fine & Rare Wine Specialist