I am trying to understand why Chateauneuf-du-Papes are so popular and have an almost religious fevered following. We were talking about this with our wine group, and Dena made the comment that most people can't say Chateauneuf-du-Pape without a warm smile on their faces. Maybe because it comes from one of the most beautiful areas in the world, Southern France, on the sun-drenched coast of the Mediterranean Sea with steady winds off the cool waters, it could be that the cepage (that's French for the wine's grape blend) is the perfect melding of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. Some grapes are magic together in the bottle, complimenting each other for a better final product. Grenache contributes alcohol, warmth, and fruitiness without added tannins. Shiraz can add full-bodied, fleshy flavors of black fruits and pepper. Mourvèdre brings elegance, structure, and acidity to the blend. In addition to the perfect blend of grapes, the soils are perfect, consisting of large alluvial stones called Galets roules (that's French for large round stones) that store heat during the day and hold water. Of course, Chateauneuf-du-Pape is also historic in that it was the vacation spot or castle of the Pope—so it has God going for it. I consider Chateauneuf-du-Pape as the comfort food of wines, one which makes you feel warm and content, which also brings a satisfied smile.

The Lafond family has a long history in the Southern Rhone Valley that dates back to 1780. Jean-Pierre Lafond's great-uncle, Pascal Odoyer, governor of Tavel, already became a pioneer in winemaking. Thus was born Domaine Lafond. Its property will be passed down from generation to generation. At first, the Lafond family settled in Tavel before expanding to Lirac, then Rhone, and Chateauneuf du Pape. The choice of the name "Lafond Roc-Épine" is anecdotal since, at the time, there were already several "Domains Lafond" in the region. To stand out from his colleagues, Jean Pierre Lafond, passionate about horse racing, took the name of the best trotting horse in the world, Roquepine. This rock star horse, in an exhausting 18-month campaign, had won 26 of 37 starts in Europe and the U.S. The mare went on to win three consecutive Prix d'Amérique in 1966, 67, and 68, widely considered the most prestigious harness race in the world. The Lafond family, wanting to be distinctive, created their winery Domaine Lafond Roc-Epine in 1970. But I digress.

Pascal Lafond, the third generation owner of the estate, joined his father's endeavors in 1977, and together, they decided to expand the estate in Tavel to include Lirac, then to Côte du Rhône, and lastly, Château-Neuf-du-Pâpe in 2001. Early on they decided to sell bottled wine instead of bulk wine to emphasize the quality of these vineyards. Four decades after taking over from his father, Pascal is preparing to pass it on to his sons, Jean-Baptiste Lafond and François Lafond.

The Lafond family produces various wines from 250 acres, all certified organic, in Lirac and the Cotes du Rhone, as well as their home in Tavel. Domaine Lafond only produces one red Chateauneuf du Pape wine from 5 acres of vineyards purchased in 2001. These Chateauneuf du Pape vineyards have always felt like a labor of love.

Domaine LaFond Roc-Epine Chateauneuf-du-Pape is a blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre from 60-year-old vines. The terroir is rocks, sand, and limestone. The grapes come from their Etang, les Grandes Serres, and les Pradel vineyards. The grapes are fermented for 21 days to obtain supple and noticeable tannins. The Syrah and Mourvedre are aged in new barrels (half in heavy toast and half in medium toast) for 12 months to soften the tannins, oxygenate the wine, and bring a touch of vanilla, which will blend with the structure. The Grenache is aged in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks for 12 months before blending and bottling. The production is tiny. Only 325 cases are produced each vintage.

Powerful and well-constituted wine, a strong ruby color with a purple tinge. It gives a complex nose of cinnamon, cooked fruits and morello cherry. After a rich and firm attack, the mouth expresses vanilla and peppery aromas which persist to the final. It's a supple and rich wine with a very good length in the mouth.

Blend: Grenache 80%, Syrah 10%, Mourvèdre 10%

This Tavel-based domaine has turned out a solid 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape. A blend of 80% Grenache (matured in tank) and 10% each Mourvèdre and Syrah (matured in new barriques), it starts off a bit tarry, with notes of struck match, but then develops more conventional black plum and blackberry aromas. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, it finishes long, with a flurry of velvety tannins. Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 93 pts

The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Roc-Épine is impressive, offers lots of ripe, darker berry and raspberry notes as well as some iron, olive, and leather notes. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, it has ripe tannins, terrific overall balance, and a great finish. This estate is incredibly consistent, and their 2019 is another gem of a wine. Jeb Dunnuck 92 pts

Intense, piquant, black cherry nose. A very dark, fairly full-bodied style, but with a good sense of freshness. Fairly tannic - a little overextracted perhaps. Tannins are a little stemmy and fibrous, they spread like roots through the wine. Give it time. Decanter 91 pts

A throwback style, with fleshy, ripe blackberry fruit and warm spices cut through with smoldering iron and dried tobacco leaves. The finish is carried by evolving tannins. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2034. 150 cases imported. Wine Spectator 91 pts

Domaine LaFond Roc-Epine Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2019

It didn't take much effort to assemble an army of wine geeks to taste this wine and help me with descriptive adjectives. You know the wine is well received when there is not any wine left to try later to see how it evolves over time. When first opened, there was a bit of burnt match in the nose, which blew off after two minutes of swirling. This wine needs to breathe a little before being consumed. Aromas of hoisin mixed with blackberry and hints of citrus. In the mouth, it has a silky, creamy texture with flavors of black tea, leather, Calabria sundried tomatoes, walnuts, and vanilla almonds—fine integrated tannins with a long, ripe black cherry finish. Chef John says this wine would work with many different dishes and then goes on to describe them. We all loved this wine, as was evident by the empty glasses. Of the 325 cases produced by this small Chateauneuf-du-Pape winery, only 150 cases were imported into the U.S., and we were able to snag 25 cases at a great price, with another 10 cases coming in from another market. Do yourself a favor and grab some for yourself or as an excellent gift for a friend. And wipe that silly Chateauneuf-du-Pape smile off your face. 

Regular Price: $49.99

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From our family at Yankee Spirits to your family and friends, we wish you a very Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, and an incredible New Year. Thank you for a fabulous 2023, and we look forward to serving you in 2024.

Cheers!

—John Hannum, Fine & Rare Wine Specialist

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