If you are like many when it comes to rose wines, you either love them or hate them. There is no in-between. Well, actually, I am an in-betweener because, by the nature of my job, I taste a lot of rose wines. I can sympathize with the haters because, after all, you were brought up on Lancers and suffered through the popularity of White Zinfandels (which was unique to the U.S. Market). I can understand that in this country, pink wine, to many, represents a cheap wine that is sweet with no character. But then there is the rose crowd that loves dry, well-made, complex rose wines trendy on the coast of Spain, the beaches of Italy, and Southern France. And the U.S. crowd demand is growing exponentially, where retail dry rosé sales soared more than 1,400 percent between 2010 and 2020, with an average bottle cost today of $17.10. Enter the modern age of the rosé-all-day crowd. Yet, this increase in sales is led primarily by one wine-growing region, Southern France, 63% of the whole dry rose category.

Rosés have been around for centuries, in fact, in the 17^th and beginning of the 18^th century, most wines produced were rosés. That is how 'Claret' of Bordeaux got its nicname. In the late 18th and early 19th century, they started to lose their mass appeal. The better red winemaking techniques became, the more pink wines suffered. Next to fuller-colored reds, rosés were seen as weaker in every respect: color, structure, appeal – and seriousness. The fact that some rosé wines were commercially successful, affordable, and popular did nothing to improve that prestige image. Case in point, older products like Mateus Rosé and Sutter Home White Zinfandel. While mass-produced rosés brought joy to many, the qualities found in historic styles like Tavel, Bandol, and Provençal rosé were dismissed. Pink was considered frivolous: why would you age or take rosé wine seriously? But now its fortunes have changed. 

As is often the case, it took outsiders to make a difference. In 2006 Franco-American Sacha Lichine bought Château d’Esclans in Provence. Lichine had a deep knowledge of the international wine markets: his father, Alexis Lichine, had owned Château Prieuré-Lichine in Margaux, Bordeaux. Lichine junior had an uncanny sense of timing and a singular aim: to make Provencal rosé a fine wine and to create a world-famous brand – Whispering Angel. He made 130,000 bottles of his inaugural 2006 vintage. A decade later, in 2016, that had grown to 4.6 million bottles; in 2022, it is 12 million bottles, and output has grown steadily at just under $30 a bottle. A sprinkling of Hollywood stardust also helped Provencal rosé. Celebrity couple Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt bought Château Miraval in Provence in 2008. In 2013 they debuted their 2012 vintage, and it became a sell-out at $30 a bottle. Crucially, both Whispering Angel and Miraval were taken seriously by critics – because they were well-made wines.

The combined success of Château d'Esclans and Miraval also turned the spotlight on far more established rosé producers like Domaines Ott. The family had pioneered quality production, and their iconic, amphora-shaped rosé bottle had reached cult status among the rich and famous on their yachts along the Côte d'Azur – but only niche markets beyond. "My family has been making rosé for more than 120 years now," says Jean-Francois Ott, general director at Domaines Ott. "The consumer attitude towards rosé has changed significantly. My family has been working tirelessly to raise awareness that rosés can be at the same level as the best white and red wines." It was Domaines Ott who had perfected that bone-dry, pale elegance that is equated with Provencal rosé today. "I think that until the 90s, the market for quality rosé was a niche. Today it has expanded significantly, and consumer awareness has increased massively. The real evolution of the category is linked to quality – and that means it is going to last."

Bandol, long held in esteem for its outstanding red Mourvèdre, is one of the three oldest appellations in Provence, created in 1941. Bandol, while famous for its reds, currently dedicates over 70% of its production to rosés. The vineyards of Bandol cover 4,000 acres in a vast amphitheater, sloping southwards towards the sea and sheltered by the 4,000-foot massif of Sainte Baume to the north. The terraced slopes are composed of eroded layers of clay and limestone. Rosé is released from March 1st of the year after the vintage, any earlier, and the wine is closed up. Bandol terroir gives Mourvèdre extra ripeness, greater fruit weight, and structure (clearly detectable in a blind tasting compared to Provence rosés.) Bandol rosés are always the last to go to market, and many believe that because of the weight and power of the Mourvèdre, wines should be aged at least a year before opening.

In 1896, after a tour of France's many vineyards, Marcel Ott, a young graduate in agronomy engineering, finally found an estate that inspired him. In these parts, growing vines is the legacy of ancient times. Those were rough times for young Ott, phylloxera had wreaked havoc on the vines, and vineyards had to be replanted. Marcel Ott bought several estates and began renovating them with the determined ambition to create great Provencal wines. Today, 120 years later, cousins Christian and Jean-François Ott dedicate their life to their ancestor's love for the site. In 2004, Domaines Ott joined Louis Roederer and its fabulous stable of wine artisans.

Christian and Jean-François Ott always made a point of expressing their different locations: Château de Selle, Clos Mireille (both Côtes de Provence), and Château Romassan (Bandol). Château Romassan is a 150-acre estate in the center of Bandol at the village of Le Castellet with vines 25+ years of age planted in limestone, sandstone, and marl over a gravel substrata and planted into terraced landscapes. Winemaking at Domaines Ott is geared toward producing wines that are both elegant and characteristic of their terroir. Grapes are handpicked and strictly sorted, and skin contact for its rosés is kept to the minimum necessary for color. The pressing is highly refined, and fermentation is carried out in thermo-regulated vats. Aging is carried out in oak casks. In short, this is a world-class wine.

Since its inception, Domaines Ott has remained true to its vision, with its focus on creating the highest level of quality wine rather than building a vast empire, which is evident in the low production. The three estates combined produce a minuscule 800,000 bottles each year. The genius of marketing is displayed in Domaines' providing their wine with the sanctum of an exclusive, unique, and instantly recognizable bottle. Today it is the signature of Domaines Ott, and it evokes the memory of an elegant amphora that kept the wine cool many centuries ago.

Its pale, ethereal pink color, tinted with gold or orange, releases a bouquet of citrus fruits and white orchard flowers. On the palate, the immediate effect is lively and bright, revealing notes of pink grapefruit, fleshy fruit, and, once the wine has had a chance to breathe, hints of fruit tart. The finish is complex and lasting.

Château Romassan sits at the foot of the hilltop village Le Castellet, a few miles north of the Bay of Bandol. The Otts rely on mourvèdre for the bulk of their rosé (this one includes 30 percent cinsault and 15 percent grenache), and, though 2021 was another hot summer here, Romassan's poor limestone and sandstone soils produced a deeply savory wine. This pale Bandol seems to have inhaled the local scrubland and seaside breezes, presenting that savory edge alongside husk cherry, grapefruit, and pale melon flavors. Firm and versatile, it would pair nicely with anything from bouillabaisse to a Niçoise salad or take it abroad alongside chicken yakitori. Wine & Spirits 96 pts

Very juicy yet restrained in style, with a core of peach, jasmine, white cherry, and rosemary backed by a long finish, which ripples with a wet stone note. Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Grenache. Drink now. Wine Spectator 92 pts

Shimmering, onion skin color. Intense red berry, citrus fruit, and floral aromas, along with building suggestions of succulent herbs and dusty minerals. Sappy and penetrating on the palate, offering concentrated strawberry, orange pith, and honeysuckle flavors that slowly deepen and take on a peachy nuance with aeration. Finishes impressively long and focused, with a repeating mineral note and a late hint of tarragon. Vinous 92 pts

Mainly Mourvèdre, with smaller proportions of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah, the 2021 Bandol Rose Chateau Romassan is coppery in hue. Offering up hints of crushed stone alongside peach, melon, and lime, it's nicely balanced and easy to drink but also long, zesty-briny, and stony on the finish. Wine Advocate 91 pts

Domaines Ott Chateau Romassan Bandol Rose 2021

In tasting this wine, I knew it would be good. I didn't realize that it would be that good. And I was not alone; all the wine geeks around me concurred this is a great example of high-quality wine. A light clear salmon color with aromas of strawberry, green melon, slightly floral, and some citrus notes. In the mouth, the first thing I noticed was the weight and texture of the wine. Flavors of wild raspberry, Korean melon, yellow tomato, and lychee are balanced by wet-slate minerality and crisp acid. The finish is long and intense, with lime and a hint of vanilla. With all these flavors, I can't even imagine how tight this wine must have been when it was first released. If ever there was a wine-tasting-bucket-list, this wine would be on it for Southern French rose. I put no minimum on this wine because I firmly believe everyone should have the opportunity to try this wine. You will probably need two bottles because one will certainly not be enough.

Regular Price: $59.99

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We can hold wines in unpaid reserves for two weeks to allow you time to pick up your wine. If it takes you longer than that to pick up your wines, give us a call, and we can process your wine and move it to paid reserves.

Orders must be done by replying to this email. The reason is that I need to keep control of the inventory in one central spot. Emailing or calling your favorite wine geek at one of our four stores may not get your orders in on time to be counted or processed and this creates a helter-skelter for us to get you the wine. For the same reason, ordering on our online Web Store is linked to our regular price, and this sale price is only offered on the email platform. It is also why it takes me some time to respond due to the deluge of orders that I sometimes get. We haven't reached the efficiency or volume of Amazon yet. Thank you in advance for your patience.

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