Mastroberardinoan, an old family estate, is considered royalty in Southern Italy and is by far the most historically significant winery south of Tuscany. The origin of the current name dates back to the early 18th century. At that time, there was a Berardino, who, because of his recognized skills as a winemaker, was awarded the title "Master," his descendants were entitled to append the title "Mastro" to the Berardino name, hence Mastroberardino. No family or winery has done as much for a single region and its indigenous grapes as the Mastroberardino family has done for Campania and the local grapes. The family's ties to this region date back to the late 1600s, and they had owned/resided in the Atripalda area of Irpinia since around 1747 when they first purchased land there. The original founding of the estate as a wine production business didn't come until 1878, but since then, they have been the most constant and dedicated force for Campania and its local wines.

Much of what Mastroberardino has become is due to the late great Antonio Mastroberardino's work, who, after returning from WWII, found his family's estate in ruins from the war, neglect, and phylloxera. He doubled down all efforts to rebuild it to its former glory. Restoring all previous vineyards and expanding their holdings while holding fast to the native, local varietals. Antonio essentially single-handedly kept Fiano, Greco, Coda di Volpe, Piedirosso & Aglianico grapes from going extinct post-World War II. For many years, the family estate was the only one still producing wines from these local varietals. Many producers in the area, desperate to survive in the post-war era, decided to switch to international varieties that were easier to sell and were in higher demand. Mastroberardino was also an early pioneer of exporting to foreign markets; their wines had long been sold globally well before prohibition in the US and the World Wars.

Today, Mastroberardino's production has grown to 14 wine estates across Campania, all situated in the heart of the three DOCG production areas of Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino, and Taurasi. Here, they continue the family's mission to preserve tradition while incorporating modern approaches to their winemaking and marketing practices. Antonio's son Piero is now the 10^th generation Mastroberardino to lead the winery, overseeing not just the business operations but a multitude of research projects, including classification, planting, and viticultural zoning across the entire region.

 They implement sustainable and organic practices across their entire estate. Only a fraction of their land holdings are planted to grape vines, about 500+ acres; the remainder makes up what they call their "landscape mosaic," which is comprised of alternating parcels of land with native woods and vegetation, olive groves, and of course vineyards. They implement many specific practices to help maintain soil health and biodiversity in the vineyards and olive groves. These practices include soil conservation to reduce erosion, dry farming, and planting native grasses and other flora to attract pollinators and beneficial insects.

Alongside Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, Aglianico is considered one of Italy's most important varieties, often made into single-varietal wines. The Aglianico varietal originated in Greece (although there are differing opinions), and today, over 98% of the world's plantings are now in southern Italy. In actual fact, Aglianico has been grown in Campania for thousands of years and even graced tables during the Roman empire. Many wine enthusiasts refer to Aglianico as the Nebbiolo of Southern Italy, and many consider Mastroberardino Taurasi from its Ridici vineyards one of the best examples.

The Mastroberardino Taurasi vineyards are the highest in the area, with a ski run not far from the property. The volcanic soil of the Taurasi zone is rich in minerals with good clay-loam content. There is a natural drainage system because of both the slope and clay content of the soil. The results can be seen in rich but elegant wines with concentrated flavors. Taurasi is the only all red-wine DOCG zone in Campania.

The Aglianico grape selection for the production of the Radici Taurasi comes from the two estates of Montemarano and Mirabella Eclano. Montemarano represents a historic site in the Taurasi production in the southernmost part of the DOCG area. The estate now plays a vital role in the cultivation of Aglianico grapes for the production of Radici Taurasi DOCG. Here, extreme thermal excursions and the slower pace of maturation provide the conditions for a late harvest, usually in November, offering grapes richer in tannins and acidity, enhancing the character of longevity.

Mirabella Eclano is the Mastroberardino family's main estate in the heart of the Taurasi DOCG area. The epicenter of Aglianico production, research, and experimentation, this estate is spread over several hills with different exposures. It is dedicated to the production of red grapes on the slopes characterized by soils with a higher presence of organic matter and volcanic matrix, as well as white grape vines in areas where soils contain more limestone and clay.

#84 Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2022

Manual harvest takes place at the end of October and early November. Fermentation in stainless steel is followed by a long maceration period at a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks. Aged for 24 months in French oak barriques and Slavonian casks, followed by a minimum 24 months refinement in bottle. Radici Taurasi has an aging potential of 50 years or more.

Deep ruby red. Full, complex, and intense, with notes of cherry, violet, wild berries, and a distinctive spicy aroma. This elegant wine has flavors of plum, black cherry, strawberry, and intense spices.

The 2017 Taurasi Radici is a force to be reckoned with, as it bursts from the glass with masses of raspberries, currants, and plums, complemented by an array of autumnal spices and crushed violets. Its textural depth and density is something to behold, silky, almost creamy, yet contrasted perfectly by a core of mineral-laced black fruits and brisk acids, as an air of inner rose and cloves forms toward the close. The 2017 is persistent and structured yet also unbelievably fresh, as fine tannins frame its smoky mineral tones, along with lasting hints of blackberry and olive. This is a gorgeous rendition of Radici that should provide readers with a slightly earlier drinking window than normally expected. That said, we are talking in terms of Taurasi here, and this wine has a very bright future ahead of it. Vinous 94 pts

Complex already on the nose with blue and black fruit, as well as notes of nori, goudrons and spices, such as cinnamon and mace. Full-bodied with intense, almost steely fruit and mineral flavors and firm, medium-grain tannins. The quality is evident here. It's just a bit rough at the moment and needs a couple of years to calm down and expand in all directions. Try from 2023. James Suckling 93 pts

Reveals ripe fruit and medicinal herbs on the nose that continue on the palate, with crushed black raspberry and cassis, Earl Grey tea leaf and hints of mocha and tar-tinged smoke. Fresh and well-knit, with chalky, sculpted tannins and a finish that echoes the fruit, herb, and mineral character. Drink now through 2030. Wine Spectator 92 pts

Mastroberardino

Radici Taurasi 2017

It is always a treat to taste a Taurasi Aglianico. Especially from the family that saved the grape variety from extinction. Strange to think that one of the holy trinity of Italian grapes after Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, could have become a distant memory due to world wars, phylloxera, and failing economies. The wine pours a medium garnet with color to the rim: aromas of deep black fruit, sun-dried tomatoes, and violets with some mushroom and earth tones. On the palate, there is fresh raspberry and cranberry with spice and volcanic ash. Integrated coating tannins balance mouthwatering acids and minerality. It has a very long finish that hints at black olives. This wine definitely lives up to its hype and needs to be in everyone's collection. It is very drinkable now after a half hour of breathing, will age gracefully for many years to come. This wine is the real deal.

Regular Price: $60.99

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