It's no secret I am a big fan of Italian wines. It may be because of the overwhelming way of Italian life's optics is that food is made to complement wine, no matter how lowly or gourmet the food should be. Pizza or pasta got a wine with that. Slow-roasted Ossobuco with a reduction sauce or saffron-infused risotto alla milanese. There is a wine with that. (The dish was created by the workers building the Milan Cathedral, who used saffron to dye the stained-glass windows and figured they would also throw it into their rice. But I digress.) All this great food and wine lead to a gregarious creative lifestyle that seems to welcome strangers of like minds.

One of my favorite areas to visit is the Piemonte region of Italy; Piedmont is the less correct English translation, literally the area at the foot of the mountains. France borders them to the West and Switzerland to the northeast. It is increasingly becoming a mecca for knowledgeable gourmands from all over the world. The ‘café culture’ is a fundamental part of everyday Piedmont life, and a whole social order revolves around stopping in the bars and restaurants. Even the smallest villages will have at least one bar, which doubles as a coffee shop and general meeting place. Lunch, the principal meal of the day, starts at noon, business and stores shut down, and work is resumed after 3:00. This relaxed lifestyle revolves around good food and wine. Tourists who come to Piedmont are warmly welcomed by the locals who still don’t quite understand what’s so special about their fantastic scenery, the food and wine to die for, the culture and art on every corner, and the great lifestyle they all take for granted. What’s not to love?

Although the best-known wines from the Piemonte are Nebbiolo-based wines, hearty Barolo, and Barbaresco, the wine that is the everyday drink of the region is Barbara due to its affordability and longstanding tradition within the area. Ampholographers suspect the origin of Barbera goes as far back as the 7th century. (Compare that to Cabernet Sauvignon, which has only existed since the 17th century.) Whether it has the bright and refined flavors of Barbara d’Asti, the intense and robust taste of Barbara d’Alba, or anything in between, this is in the glasses at the local bistro’s, at the hills and lakes at the foot of the Alps. A winery founded in Asti almost 70 years ago that owns and controls 275 acres of vines is Michele Chiarlo, who makes mostly Barbara wines.

The Chiarlo family has been growing vines in Piedmont for seven generations, and its home turf is Asti. Michele Chiarlo started the winery in 1956 after finishing wine school and vinifying wine from the family vineyards. Although Barbara has been consumed in the Piemonte for 1,000 years, it was a rustic everyday wine with great acidity and suitable for heavy dishes of Piemontese cuisine. After various trips to Burgundy, Michele wanted to create a more elegant wine with a broader market appeal. He was the first in Piemonte to control malolactic fermentation (softening the wine) and improve the quality of the grapes by reducing the yield by vine thinning. These innovated novel methods used in growing Barbera opened up new international markets and led to Michele being labeled as Mister Barbara in the 90s. Stefano’s, Michele’s son, first vintage was in 1984, and five years later, he bought his first piece of ‘cru’ vineyard in Cannubi. Today, the company produces 100,000 cases, mostly Barbera d’Asti and Gavi.

The Barbera grapes are a selection from several vineyards in southern Asti, including the La Court estate. The light-colored soils are rich in lime and microelements. Temperature-controlled fermentation, including 10 days of maceration on the skins, in stainless steel tanks, yields the dark, rich color typical of great Barberas. The wine is aged in large French oak casks for 3 months, then rests in stainless steel and bottle before release for a total of 16 months aging.

The 2020 vintage began with a winter season with mild temperatures and little rainfall. The first part of spring was relatively dry and sunny, and March and April enjoyed good weather and mild temperatures. In May, an unstable climate recorded many rainy days, lasting until late June. This slowed vegetative development but allowed for an accumulation of water in the ground. It was a generally large vintage, although thinning brought quantities back to normal. Overall, the climate was ideal, with a final sprint of bright days and an excellent temperature range between day and night from mid-August to late September, conditions that characterize great vintages.

Michele Chiarlo Le Orme Barbera d'Asti is ruby red with violet hues. This elegant and intense wine offers notes of red cherry and red currants. A harmonious and well-structured wine with a beautiful savory finish.

Blend: 100% Barbera

This is a CLASSIC Barbera. Vibrant and bright aromas of wild berries, fresh herbs, and purple flowers all showcase the beauty of this wine. The palate shows high-toned red cherries and raspberries framed by elegant and fine tannins with that perfect pop of acidity on the finish. Best Buy Wine Enthusiast 94 pts

Michele Chiarlo Le Orme Barbera d’Asti 2020 

I have always been a fan of Chiarlo Barbera d’Asti. Due in part because I worked for the importer for three years and represented the wholesaler for this wine for 16 years. It has always been my go-to Italian wine for the other-than-chianti category because of how different it is. And this vintage was better than I remember it as. Pure dark berry fruit, ripe cherry, some herbs, fine tannins balanced by good acidity. Long dark cherry finish. You will want to pick this glass up again and again because there is no mouth fatigue. This is just the kind of wine we need to celebrate Spring—great ratings, great taste, and a better than great price. Customers always ask what this wine goes well with, and the answer, in this case, would be life. 

Regular Price: $14.99

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Cheers!

John Hannum,

Fine & Rare Wine Specialist

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