If you are at all interested in organic wines and believe that winemaking grapes free from insecticides, artificial fertilizers, and weed killers are better for your body but also taste more alive, then this is sad news. Paul Dolan, I am sorry to say, died a couple of weeks ago after a long battle with cancer. Paul has been at the forefront and an advocate of every aspect of organic grape growing before we even had definitions of what organic wines were. After many field trials, he came to the clinical conclusion that wines made from organic grapes were better wines. He believed this when there was no certification process or soil testing to help categorize the wines.

Paul’s first wine job was for Barney Fetzer, as his winery’s first trained winemaker in 1977. He would spend the next 27 years with the company, marry the boss’s daughter, and lay the foundations for what would become the successful Fetzer and Bonterra brands. At the time, there was a growing interest in organic foods, endorsed by foodie gurus Julia Child and James Beard, who led cooking classes at Fetzer’s Hopland facility that featured the property’s organic garden tended by Michael Malthus, who was awarded Organic Gardener of the Year for the Organic Gardening Magazine. Paul remembers the wine they created at the time. “…we decided to introduce some trial winemaking from grapes that we knew were organic. And there were sort of slim pickings in those early days – and what was organic? Essentially, what we had to do was find guys that just didn’t use chemicals. And then, we had to kind of confirm that.” That was well before today’s organic certification and testing programs existed. 

Together Fetzer and Dolan created the market for wines certified as “Made with Organic Grapes,” traveling the country and promoting their wines for quality and health. Battles were fought with the Government in 1993, which wanted to eliminate the organic wine grape growing category. Paul had to advocate the Secretary of Agriculture in Washington, DC, to convince him that that would be a mistake for the wine industry’s future. At the same time, some in the organic sector wanted to prevent wines from organic grapes that contained sulfites from using organic labeling. Dolan lobbied to allow sulfites which is a natural ingredient, to be added in limited quantities.

In 2002 Paul became the first Chairman of the Wine Institute’s Sustainable Winegrowers Alliance and introduced the Code of Sustainable Wine Growing. In 2006, he became Chairman of the wine industry’s most powerful group, the Wine Institute. He had also become enamored of biodynamics and, in 2002, held the first biodynamic symposium in the U.S. with winegrowers in Australia, California, and France. Dolan had a chance to live his biodynamic dream, first using Bonterra vineyards (#1 organic producer in the U.S.) and then putting its principles into practice in 2006, when, with his son Heath, purchased Dark Horse Ranch in Hopland—70 acres of vineyards with designed beneficial insect habitats and tractors that run on biofuels.

Ever the entrepreneur, after leaving Fetzer, he started his brand, Paul Dolan Vineyards, in partnership with Tom and Tim Thornhill. Since its inception in 2007, Paul Dolan Vineyards has remained dedicated to creating exceptional wines through the highest organic standards. The winery uses Regenerative Agriculture practices, a holistic approach to farming, one that respects the land and the people who cultivate it. Farming in the image of nature, rather than trying to control it, over time, they have cultivated vibrant vineyards that thrive with a diverse ecosystem of plants, insects, and animals. Paul left that project in 2012.

Paul Dolan’s passing is a significant loss, but his influence will continue reverberating through the vineyards of Sonoma and Mendocino Counties. His commitment to sustainable farming practices, his mentorship of fellow winemakers, and his creation of award-winning wines have left an indelible mark on the region. As we raise a glass to his memory, we also celebrate the lasting impact of his vision on the landscape of Mendocino County’s wine industry.

Paul Dolan Vineyards Zinfandel is sourced from two unique vineyard sites in the heart of Mendocino County – La Ribera Vineyard and Chase Vineyard. Located along the banks of the Russian River, La Ribera Vineyard sees long, warm days and cool nights during the growing season, resulting in bright aromatic fruit with balanced acidity. Located in the eastern hills of the Redwood Valley, the Chase Vineyard has a cooler climate than surrounding appellations, which leads to the gradual ripening of the fruit and results in refined, complex wines.

A beautiful deep purple shade, the Paul Dolan Zinfandel has warm vanilla and caramel aromas intermingled with bright red cranberry and cherry fruit. On the palate, the rich cherry and cranberry notes carry through to a medium-bodied wine with supple tannins. Delicate oak nuances – a kiss of nutmeg and clove – compliment the wine’s fruit, leading to juicy, lightly spiced finish.

Always Certified Organically Grown. Vegan.

Just released, no current reviews; Wine Enthusiast awarded this wine over 90 points for the last five vintages.

2020. Deep and concentrated fruit flavors give this full-bodied wine plenty to savor, while light vanilla and cinnamon notes from oak aging dress it up nicely. Moderate tannins maintain good balance despite the wine’s richness. Wine Enthusiast 91 pts

Paul Dolan Vineyard Organic Zinfandel 2021 

I have always been a fan of Paul Dolan’s wines. I heard him speak and met him at a Fetzer/Bonterra presentation back in my earlier salesman career. His passion for organic wines was undeniable and infectious. The wines have always been full of life, intense, and vibrant. He left that legacy with Paul Dolan Winery, and we were excited to try the Paul Dolan Vineyards 2021 Organic Zinfandel. Many times a Zinfandel can be over the top in flavor and alcohol. This wine was not, with approachable aromas of Blueberry and fresh fruit. On the palate, it was a softer style fruit bowl with fresh mint tea, sweet pipe tobacco, and plum balanced by mild tannins and a long finish. A very drinkable non-aggressive Zinfandel that we all liked very much because not only did it taste great, but you could also have it with food. That is not always the case with many Zinfandels. This wine has barbeque written all over it and at a substantial discount from its suggested price.

Regular Price: $21.99

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Cheers!

John Hannum,

Fine & Rare Wine Specialist

Attleboro

628 Washington St.

Norwood

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