Hello fellow sewist!
If you've just started learning how to sew, you may have encountered a material called interfacing. What is it, and how do you use it?
Here’s a quick guide to Interfacings!
Interfacing is a type of fabric used to reinforce the outer fabric. It's an added layer, usually placed on the wrong side of the fabric, to provide stability, structure, firmness, and shape to your garment. Areas such as collars, cuffs, buttons, buttonholes, waistbands, and pockets are where they are mainly applied to.

Adding a layer of interfacing makes a garment more robust and long-lasting to withstand general wear and tear. It also prevents garments from distorting over time.

But how do you choose the right type of interfacing for your project? Let's talk about the different types of interfacing available.

In general, interfacing comes in two main types, fusible or sew-in. Each can be categorized into three structures: non-woven, woven, and knit. These options will also come in various weights and can be found in white, black or gray.

When deciding what type of interfacing to use, it is crucial to make the right choice, as this decision can influence the final look of your garment. 
Shape-Flex garment sewists' favorite. Iron-on/fusible woven interfacing.
Fusible Interfacing

This is the most beginner-friendly type of interfacing to use. One side of the material is coated with a heat-activated adhesive. Iron it onto the back of your fabric with the glue facing the back and the non-adhesive side contacting the iron plate.

Identifying the adhesive side from non coated side is easy. At most, the glue side will appear rougher and shinier, and it will also be rough to touch.
Fusible interfacing will adhere to most fabrics but will not bond with textured or loosely woven fabrics.
Fusible Knit interfacing in black.
Sew-In Interfacing

Unlike fusible interfacing, this does not have an adhesive coating and will need to be attached to the fabric by sewing. Using sew-in interfacing can help you achieve a more natural shape and drape without any stiffness. These are ideal for fabrics that cannot be ironed or have texture.
Woven Sew-In Interfacing in white.
Woven interfacing

This type of interfacing will look like any other woven fabric. Some will be lightweight, and you will also come across stiffer ones. When using woven interfacing, be aware of your grainlines, much like regular fabrics. Follow your grainlines just as you would when cutting your main fabric. Woven interfacing is commonly used for delicate fabrics like sheers and silks.
Non-woven Interfacing

This is created by bonding fibers and pressing them flat to create a paper-like appearance. Non-woven interfacing has no grain, can be cut in any direction, and won’t fray. This is the simplest type of interfacing to use and is suitable for most garment-making projects.
"Shirtailor" non-woven fusible interfacing.
Knit interfacing

This is produced by knitting the fibers together. Using this with your knit or stretch jersey projects will give you the stability it needs but retain its stretchability. Knit interfacing comes in handy when sewing hems on knit garment projects. It's available in bolts, where you'll need to cut strips to match your seam allowances, or in tapes with varying widths of 1/2 to 1 inch.
Fusible knit stay tape interfacing can come in handy when sewing necklines on slippery knits.
How to Choose the Weight of Your Interfacing

As a general rule of thumb, the weight of your interfacing should match your fabric.

In most garnet-making projects, lightweight interfacing will work well. However, medium-weight interfacing will be suitable for working with stiffer or medium-weight fabrics like shirting cotton or poplin. Heavyweight interfacing will better suit outwear sewing projects or adding structure to bags and hats.

If you're still unsure, feel a layer of your chosen fabric and interfacing option in between your fingers and evaluate the thickness. You can decide to opt for a lighter or thicker weight and see if you prefer it stiff and sturdy or enough to hold its shape but still be able to drape.
Now you are better equipped to choose interfacing for your next sewing project!

Happy Sewing!

Carla
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