Rough diamond crystal. Transmitted and reflected light. Image by Gary Roskin. Diamond provided by AMGAD. | | |
Top Newsletter Features from our last Report:
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#1.) France says it's a "Synthetic Diamond"
No (Again) to using "Lab Grown"... and Here's Why!
Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report
In February of this year, we gave you several diamond discussions regarding the use of the terms "created," "lab/laboratory grown," and "synthetic." (see … and in Diamond News … )
And we are back with an update - from France.
The French governmental department of Competition, Consumer Affairs, and Fraud Prevention (DGCCRF) has just released a response to synthetic diamond manufacturers who have requested a reversal of the declaration pronounced earlier this year that the phrase "lab/laboratory grown" cannot be used to describe and market synthetic gem quality diamond.
Spoiler alert: The French Consumer Affairs agency has said, "No. No reversal."
BUT.... more importantly, they tell us why! And this is definitely worth reading!
Tap here to read more about why France will not allow "Lab Grown" to be used to describe synthetic diamond!
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#2.) Rediscovering Red Vietnamese Garnet and the Partnership Behind Its Return
"New" find of Vietnamese Pyrope-Almandine
Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report
Over the course of decades in the business, Richard von Sternberg has handled more than his share of remarkable gems. He’s built a long career in the colored gemstone trade, and worked with diamonds as owner of the U.S.-based Eight Star Diamond Cutting factory.
In recent years, von Sternberg has championed couture-quality Ethiopian black opals. And today, in partnership with Bangkok-based gem expert Tom Banker, he’s turning much of his attention to something new—or perhaps rediscovered: vivid red pyrope-almandine garnet from Vietnam, a source with both pedigree and mystery.
Tap here to find out more about this new red garnet!
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#3) Christie’s Magnificent Jewels
The Diamond Report
GIA Graded over 30 Diamond Lots including:
✅ The Marie-Thérèse Purple-Pink - $13.98 Million
✅ The 66.74-carat D, VVS1, Ex Ex Ex - $3.8 Million
✅ The 25.45-carat D, Flawless - $2.35 Million
Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report
As you know, when the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) weighs in on a diamond’s quality, the industry pays attention—and rightfully so. GIA isn’t just a gemology school and gemological laboratory—it’s widely regarded as the most trusted and respected authority in the field.
That trust and respect was on full display as usual at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction in New York City a few weeks ago (June 17, 2025), where the star of the show—the Marie-Thérèse Fancy Purple-Pink, set in a JAR (Joel Arthur Rosenthal) fleur-de-lis mount—sold for a JAR-dropping (sorry) $13.98 Million!
Not only did GIA quality grade the 10.38-carat modified kite-shape brilliant, but it quality graded over 30 other diamonds in this sale.
A Royal History Imagined
Of course, this wasn’t just any pink diamond. The stone came steeped in royal history—or at least, presented as such. Said to have most likely originated in the famed Golconda region of India, the diamond has been attributed to Queen Marie Antoinette (1755–1793), although no official documentation confirms the connection.
According to family tradition and historical accounts cited by Christie’s, the diamond was reportedly passed down to her only surviving daughter, Duchess Marie-Thérèse of Angoulême (1778–1851), and later to her niece, the Duchess Marie-Thérèse of Chambord (1817–1886).
What we do know is that Queen Marie Theresa of Bavaria (1849–1919) eventually acquired the diamond— uncovered in her will, described as “a pink solitaire diamond from Aunt Chambord.” [That would be Duchess Marie-Thérèse of Chambord.]
Known today as the Marie-Thérèse Pink Diamond, the stone is distinguished not only by its rare and beautiful color, and its 18th century cutting style, but also for its notable—if only partially documented—royal provenance, carefully preserved through generations.
Examination by the GIA
“GIA evaluated the Marie-Thérèse Pink in advance of the auction, providing a detailed gemological assessment that confirms the diamond’s color origin and internal characteristics,” said Tom Moses, GIA’s Executive Vice President and Chief Laboratory and Research Officer. “Through our evaluations, GIA helps record the properties and history of these notable diamonds.”
That assessment gave the bidders the confidence to push the final selling price of the Marie-Thérèse Fancy Purple-Pink far beyond its pre-sale estimate of $3 to $5 million—ultimately establishing a final hammer price at nearly three times the high estimate.
Tap here to look at several of the important diamonds from Christie's Magnificent Jewels auction, graded by GIA.
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THIS WEEK
in the Roskin Gem News Report
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Understanding Fei Cui:
The Trade Term Now Found on Jade Reports
A Definition of “Fei Cui”
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by Emily “D.D.” Frontiere
for the Roskin Gem News Report
Beginning June 1st, 2025, jadeite jade authenticity reports issued by Mason-Kay, started to look a little different. Mason-Kay, U.S. jade experts located in Colorado, have added a new sentence at the bottom of the report – “Internationally known as ‘Fei Cui’, an umbrella term for pyroxene jades comprised primarily of jadeite, omphacite, kosmochlor, or any combination thereof.”
This adjustment follows the GIA’s 2023 decision to include the phrase “Known in the trade as ‘Fei Cui’” accompanied in the notes section with the explanation – “The term ‘Fei Cui’ refers to jadeite, omphacite, and kosmochlor” on their Jadeite Jade reports. As both statements imply, the term “Fei Cui” is not new, and has been part of the Asian jadeite jade nomenclature for over a decade.
But what is Fei Cui? And why should we care?
Tap here to read about Mason Kay's decision to include “Fei Cui”—It's clear, relevant, and no mineralogy degree required!
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Emerald and Alexandrite in the same stone!
Emerald and alexandrite in the same stone?
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It’s not every day you come across a gemstone that brings together two of the trade’s most treasured varieties—emerald and alexandrite—in a single, faceted stone!
While these two chromium-colored gems can form under similar conditions and may be mined from the same general area, finding them grown so closely together that they can be cut as one is exceptionally rare—and truly an amazing find.
In this article, Kaylan Khourie, FGA, of Lotus Gemology, shares the story of a 15.80-carat pear-shape, one gem that is both an emerald and an alexandrite. Bought as a piece of rough, the stone revealed its secret only at the polishing wheel: an intergrowth of more than one mineral. What follows is a close look at this remarkable gem—and the geological recipe that made it possible.
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An Alexandrite-Emerald Intergrowth, Reportedly from Russia
Kaylan Khourie, FGA Lotus Gemology
Although many emerald deposits also produce alexandrite, particularly those formed in association with mica-rich schist, it is rare that both gems are found in such a close association that they can be fashioned into a single stone. This article details the examination of one such piece, reportedly originating from a deposit in Malysheva, Russia.
Alexandrite and emerald are the Cr/V-bearing varieties of chrysoberyl (BeAl2O4) and beryl (Be3Al2Si6O18), respectively, although Fe can also affect their coloration. The main chemical difference between the two minerals is that chrysoberyl lacks Si, which is a major constituent of beryl. In general, alexandrite and emerald are geologically rare because...
Tap here to learn about this amazing 2-in-1 gem!
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"Are Diamonds Even a Luxury Anymore?"
De Beers CEO Al Cook talks to the Wall Street Journal about the diamond market’s identity crisis!
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A review of the Wall Street Journal feature story...
"Are Diamonds Even a Luxury Anymore? De Beers Reckons With Price Plunge"
— by Jenny Strasburg and Suzanne Kapner.
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“The brand made mined diamonds synonymous with love and devotion. Now the CEO decries what he calls a ‘huge con’ in lab-grown stones masquerading as precious.” —Wall Street Journal
So you’ve probably already seen the Wall Street Journal article: “Are Diamonds Even a Luxury Anymore?” It’s a headline that’s hard to ignore—and so are some of the claims inside. [You may need a subscription to read the article.]
The piece touches on falling diamond prices, the rise of synthetic/lab-grown diamonds, De Beers’ strategy shift, and changing consumer habits. But while it raises important questions, it skips over some details that matter to those of us in the trade.
We’ve broken down the massive article into key talking points, and have highlighted areas where the reporting could use a bit more detail.
Tap here for our review of the Wall Street Journal's "Are Diamonds Even a Luxury Anymore?"
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Spectacular Super Bowl Rings
for the XIL NFL Champions, the Philadelphia Eagles
Jason of Beverly Hills
Fly, Eagles, Fly—With 12 Carats of Bling!
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Diamond & Colored Gemstone-set Jewelry Marks Milestones
When commemorating life's big moments, we often turn to jewelry as a lasting symbol to honor and forever remember the occasion.
And the Philadelphia Eagles are supersizing their moment with the King of all Super Bowl rings!
When the Philadelphia Eagles clinched their second Super Bowl title with a commanding win over the rival Kansas City Chiefs on Sunday, February 9, earlier this year (2025), they knew their championship ring had to be as unforgettable as the season itself.
For that, the Eagles turned to Jason of Beverly Hills, the celebrity-favorite jeweler known for turning bold ideas into even bolder bling. The result is a masterclass in designing and manufacturing—a massive, 140 grams, iced-out, Hip-Hop-worthy masterpiece that's part jewelry, and part story telling.
Every detail of the ring is deliberate. Every element meaningful. Everywhere you look, the championship ring represents something memorable of the Eagles' momentous season, immortalized for the players and for the Philadelphia Eagles organization.
Tap here to read all about the Eagles' championship ring!
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GIA Announces "Jewelry Forensics"
Techniques to Determine Manufacturing Style, Jewelry Quality, and Repair History
Live Online Seminar | Aug 13 - 14
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For appraisals and repair intake, your best tool is a pair of well-trained eyes. Jewelry Forensics helps strengthen your assessment skills and bolster your checklist so no detail is left unseen. Learn to identify signs of quality, manufacturing, defects, and more in this two-day intensive live-online seminar.
How Jewelry Forensics can benefit you:
- If you appraise/buy/sell period jewelry, you can recognize inconsistencies in construction methods for circa dating or reproductions.
- If you are a jewelry designer without bench training, learn how to design and engineer pieces by understanding what construction geometry may prevent potential jewelry failures in the future.
- If you are a buyer or an avid collector, you can make more informed decisions on the metal type performance, quality and workmanship of the product you are purchasing.
- If you take in over-the-counter repairs, you can detect and assess potential problems before they occur.
Continuing education offerings by the GIA Alumni Collective® (GIA Alumni Association, LLC) are considered avocational or recreational in nature and are not intended to prepare individuals for entry-level employment. They are non-credit bearing and do not lead to an academic credential.
Tap here to register for the online seminar!
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Latest Handbook of Gemmology
Three-Volumes (Print & Digital)
World Gem Foundation
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If you’re looking for the latest in gemmological textbooks, the World Gem Foundation has just released the fifth edition of its Handbook of Gemmology, a comprehensive three-volume set now available in both digital and print formats.
The World Gem Foundation is a Canadian non-profit established in 2015 by gemmologist and author Geoffrey Dominy. Now based in [city], Spain, the Foundation offers gemmological training for students, jewellers, and industry professionals, with courses ranging from basic gem identification to quality grading of diamonds and colored stones.
Scholarships Available
Looking to learn gemmology? Register for the GemQuest High Performance Gemmological Scholarship program. “The GemQuest High Performance Gemmological Scholarship program levels the playing field by removing the financial barriers. It is not about the ‘ability to pay’ but more about an individual’s academic ability. Its goal is simple, to reward those students who work hard and excel in their studies. The harder you work and the more dedicated you are to your studies, the greater the reward.”
Tap Here for more about the Fifth Edition
of the WGF Handbook of Gemmology.
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Into the Stone
Photomicrography from E. Billie Hughes
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E. Billie Hughes, FGA, is a co-founder of Bangkok-based Lotus Gemology, a respected gemological laboratory and educational resource.
A graduate of UCLA, and a Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (FGA), Hughes is also an award winning photographer and photomicrographer, winning prizes in the Nikon Small World and Gem-A competitions. Her writings and images have been featured in books, magazines, and online in Forbes, Vogue, National Geographic, and more.
In 2019 the Accredited Gemologists Association (AGA) awarded Hughes their Gemological Research Grant, which funded her research on low temperature heat treatment of Burmese ruby. [see Gems & Gemology: A Canary in the Ruby Mine: Low-Temperature Heat Treatment Experiments on Burmese Ruby, by E. Billie Hughes and Wim Vertiest.] In 2020, Van Cleef & Arpels’ L’École School of Jewellery Arts staged exhibitions of her photomicrographs in Paris and Hong Kong.
We’re honored to feature one of her remarkable images here in the Roskin Gem News Report.
Tap here to discover what this image is telling us!
| | Let Us Help You Get Noticed! | | |
Do you know why we buy more Lindt chocolates during the holidays than almost any other time of the year?
Because they advertise!
We make advertising easy (and very affordable) - just click the Ad package you like, and then send us your artwork. It just that simple - like eating chocolates!
Tap the box here to start advertising before your next showing!
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Lightning Ridge, Australia
– July 23-26, 2025
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64th Annual ACE©It VIRTUAL Education Conference
– August 9 - 10, 2025
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August
The 22nd annual Australian Opal Exhibition
Trade Only
Southport, Queensland, Australia
– August 6-7, 2025
Time & Shine Jewellery Trade Show
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
– August 17 and 18, 2025
The International Jewellery & Watch Fairs
Sydney, Australia
– August 23-25, 2025
Japan Jewellery Fair – Informa Markets
Tokyo, Japan
– August 27-29, 2025
The Jewellery Show
Olympia, London, UK
– August 31-September 1, 2025
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The Rare Gem
Bear Essentials
The Arkenstone
HardRock Summit
ValentineGarnets.com
GIA - Gemological Institute of America
The Canadian Gemmological Association
ASA - the American Society of Appraisers
AGTA - the American Gem Trade Association
AGA - the Accredited Gemologists Association
Gem-A - Gemmological Association of Great Britain
NAJA - the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers
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What do we have for you this week?
Fei Cui on Jade reports... is this a good thing?
We're also reviewing a story in the Wall Street Journal - an interview with Al Cook, CEO of De Beers, talking about the fate of natural diamonds. Powerful!
We've added another fine photomicrographer to our contributors - E. Billie Hughes!
And there's also a fun feature on the newest Super Bowl ring - large enough to hurt someone if you're not careful! Truly amazing bling!
Want us to cover something? Let us know!
Our email address is Gary@RoskinGemNews.com
- or you can text us at +1-610-269-0121 (good for WhatsApp too!)
That's all for now from here!
Keep in touch. We’d love to hear where you’ve been and what gems you’ve discovered!
As always, we will continue to post features on the website, so feel free to log on to the Roskin Gem News Magazine any time: www.RoskinGemNewsReport.com
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Want to contribute?
If you would like to contribute, or you have read something somewhere that you feel would be perfect to share with the community, then please feel free to contact me directly at Gary@RoskinGemNews.com
I will see you again SOON!
Stay safe and stay healthy!
Gary Roskin
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