#142 | In Defense of Small Plates | |
We’ve got nothing against elaborate, decadent dinners that move through various stages of epiphany to conclude with a kind of blissful (if sometimes dyspeptic) torpor. We’re big fans, in fact. But lately we’ve found that some of our best meals have been, well, small. A few plates at Debajo Tapas y Vino, where the jamón serrano–cloaked dates are seared, then served on a runway of balsamic and honey: a precise balance of sweet, savory, and salty. La Boca’s gambas al ajillo in their perfect pool of chile de árbol–infused wine and butter, soaked up to the last drop with slices of sourdough. The grilled elk at Ex Novo, tender and shareable, delivered in a room so high-ceilinged, so filled with light that it feels like optimism is pouring in. | |
Lightness: that is part of the joy we feel in taking a sliver of pomegranate molasses–drizzled eggplant tempura from a plate positioned in the middle of the table. But it’s also about multiplicity, the freedom to make our own pairings, to try bites of many distinctive things, to order more, to order less. In Spain, tapas are sometimes ordered singly, like bar snacks for one. In Mexico, antojitos—charmingly translated on some menus as “little whims,” more often than not renamed “starters” this side of the border—can also go both ways. But whether drawn from the tapas tradition or, as at San Francisco’s State Bird Provisions, plucked from carts like dim sum, shareability is the defining feature of what have become known, for better or worse, as small plates. | |
Not everyone likes sharing. Small plates have been put through the wringer by food writers who want appetizers to be called appetizers, dinner companions who bemoan the third meatball, reviewers who seem to long for (or perhaps have forgotten the drabness of) the old days of frozen calamari followed by a boring salad followed by steak and potatoes followed by a volcanic brownie. And sometimes, it’s true, the bill for a jumble of small plates turns out to be more expensive than it would’ve been for two entrées. But we find that sharing, the mutual deciding on dishes with our dining companions, to be a pleasant part of the small plates way. The dining and the conversation become more intertwined—this is so good, isn’t it?—and the camaraderie of a meal shared is far greater than that of two (or three or more) meals siloed apart, at the same table. | |
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During Indian Market, sun-beat and struck with what felt like emergency hunger, we found refuge with a friend on the porch at La Mama. If we sang, we would’ve been singing praise songs for the bright, citric, none-too-salty notes of the gorgeous green tapenade. Leaving, we floated back out into the overheated fray, refreshed by the conversation, the interval of shade, and the simple brilliance of pairing fresh tomatoes with tarragon. Would we have been disappointed if we’d noticed that, rather than small plates, what we’d shared was labeled simply as “lunch”?
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Although it might seem counterintuitive, the slow cooker is our favorite cooking method in the summer. Often associated with comfort food and winter, the slow cooker is the perfect vessel to deliver a hot meal without suffering the heat. Mojo pork is a popular Cuban recipe that combines citrus juice, garlic, and dried oregano. This simple, satisfying recipe is excellent for multiple meals during the busy summer months. Use it to make tacos, nachos, or rice bowls. Get the Slow Cooker Mojo Pork recipe from our partners at Rio Grande Credit Union.
Dine on a Dime is brought to you by Rio Grande Credit Union and highlights recipes on a budget.
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The main building at the Indian Pueblo Entrepreneur Complex, a project of the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, opens its doors on September 5. Located within the expansive development site near Twelfth and Menaul, IPEC boasts a slick commercial kitchen, cold storage, and classroom space, with gardens and more to come—a sort of incubator space for small food businesses, not unlike the South Valley Economic Development Center. They’ve still got some open rental spaces, so check it out if you’ve been dreaming of going pro with your cheffy side hustle.
Parked just off St Francis Drive between Agua Fria and Paseo de Peralta, the new Yalla! Shawarma food truck is serving up shawarma and other Mediterranean treats, with vegan, gluten-free, and halal options. The spot is run by brothers Malek and Zack Belghiti, who previously operated Tajine, where the falafel (among other mezze) was a standout. Learn more about their story in Susanna Space’s report from that venue.
Mati Peruvian Cuisine opened up on San Pedro in Albuquerque a couple of months ago. We’ve yet to scope it out, but the aji de gallina and the yuca fries look pretty tasty. Open every day but Sunday, 11 am to 8 pm.
All we know about Herencia is that it’s located in the spot formerly home to Zorba’s in Albuquerque’s Northeast Heights, it’s “open til closed,” and it looks like they’ll be serving pollo a la veracruzana, among other dishes.
In Lemitar, Bustamante Farms Market held their grand opening at the old Old Lemitar Store on August 10. They’re planning to be open Saturday and Sunday till 3 and Tuesday–Friday till 5, closed Mondays. Along with chile (their main crop), they’ll be selling local products from steak to sweet corn to Ness Farms pinto beans, with dreams of hosting ristra-stringing workshops in the future.
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Today through Monday, you can hit the Harvest Wine & Music Festival at Balloon Fiesta Park in Albuquerque for wine tastings from quite a few local wineries. Le Chat Lunatique, Eileen and the In-Betweens, and several other NM acts will perform. It’s a 21-and-up event, naturally, with tickets available online and at the door.
Rowley’s Farmhouse Ales celebrates their eighth anniversary this weekend, and today that lands in the form of an Española Humane adoption event paired with the release of Black Dog IPA. Tomorrow, they’ll have lobster rolls and start pouring True to Caricature, a new sour. If you have any doubts about their cred for brewing sour, or if you’re still wondering what makes a sour sour and why it counts as beer, check out edible New Mexico’s Q&A with co-owner and brewer John Rowley.
This Sunday, Tumbleroot Brewery & Distillery kicks off a new monthly afternoon flea market called 1st Sunday Market at Tumbleroot. Artisans will be selling pots, hot sauces, clothes, and such; the food truck will be serving from their brunch menu, which is sandwich forward with a dash of tapas and (this is New Mexico) a breakfast burrito; and, naturally, the bar will be serving drinks.
The Carnitas, Musica y Mas Fest goes through Sunday night down at Gough Park in Silver City, with food vendors, a beer garden, and plenty of live music. We don’t know who’s doing the carnitas, but we do know there’s a performance by Al Hurricane Jr. this evening. Tickets available at the gate.
Continuing the winey theme—The Kitchen Table Santa Fe is hosting the Food & Wines of Friuli Dinner on Friday, with Chef Peter O’Brien of High Mountain Cuisine in the kitchen and sommelier Greg O’Byrne on wine duty. Five courses, each with a wine pairing.
September 6, Knead is hosting The Art of Food at their café in downtown Albuquerque, where you can get a foodie-themed flash tattoo while watching live mural painting while munching on donuts and sipping tea.
The same evening, Kei & Molly Textiles is hosting Put a Print on It! at their warehouse near the International District. Bring a T-shirt that fits you (or someone who needs a gift) just right, print it with one of their beloved designs using eco-friendly ink, and snack the evening away.
Reunity Resources, the urban nonprofit farm making waves in Santa Fe, is hosting a free walking farm tour on the morning of Saturday, September 14. If you’re curious about the history of the place and what they’re up to now (a lot of composting, from what we hear), you should swing by.
Puppy mocktails will be served in lieu of old dog cocktails at Dogs, Beers, & Cheers at Albuquerque’s 12th Street Tavern on September 14, and it’s a good thing, because it means the canines who attend will have full control of their faculties and thus a better chance to win the “best tricks” or “most obedient” contests. If you and your pup are twinsies, there’s a contest for you too.
At noon on September 21, Town & Ranch will host a honey talk and tasting (specialty honey-ey cocktail included) with Matt Strong of Bear Canyon Honey. He’s a good person to chat up if you’ve ever been curious about backyard beekeeping. And if you can’t swing that, he’ll be talking bees two days earlier at Birds & Bees, a garden mixer hosted by Trees That Please Nursery in Los Lunas. Raptor specialist Laura McCann will also be on hand, along with a vulture, an owl, and a wild hawk.
Tickets are still on sale for Albuquerque Empty Bowls, which takes place September 28 at St John’s United Methodist Church. Potters donate bowls; restaurants (with, we might add, some pretty good chefs) donate food; and ticket sales benefit Storehouse New Mexico, a community-based food pantry that provides free groceries to people in need.
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On October 19, the Trinity Site will be opening to the public for the first time since the release of Christopher Nolan's Oppenheimer. “For anyone with an interest in this fascinating time in New Mexico—and world—history and the complicated legacy we are still dealing with today,” Ty Bannerman writes, “the Trinity Site is a must-see.” But, he notes, any serious investigation of our state’s nuclear history will include tours of some of the other important sites in New Mexico. And you’ll want more than movie theater popcorn and overpriced candy along the way. In “Atomic Appetite,” Bannerman offers some favorite dining destinations along the atomic trail. You’ll have plenty to think about as you eat. | |
Got a tip? Wish we knew about your favorite bakery/brewery/hole-in-the-wall? Give us a shout! | |
Mission
The Bite satisfies a hunger for provocative, artful, community-minded, diverse stories about the raw, the cooked, the distilled & the fermented. We strive for inclusion and a wide range of perspectives in our coverage of the New Mexico food and drink industry, sparking readers to veer out of their comfort zones and into the open territory of the region’s culinary landscape.
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