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Sew straight lines by using the seam guidelines on the stitch plate of your sewing machine.

Having your seams uneven will affect the look of your garment and will make your project look poorly made. Even the slightest off-tracked seam sewn here and there can affect the fit of your clothing. Anything as little as 1/8” off the seam allowance and another 1/8” here and there can eventually add up to 1 inch! So, be sure to sew as accurately as possible.

A seam allowance is an area between the fabric edge and the stitching line on two pieces of material being sewn together. Seam allowances can range from 1⁄4” wide to as much as several inches.

In most commercial patterns, seam allowances are usually included, and they can range from 1/4, 1/2, to 5/8”. It’s either noted in the pattern instructions or the pattern piece itself what the seam allowance is.

Note that seam allowances are never marked as lines on sewing patterns. So how can we sew evenly spaced stitches from the fabric edge?

1) Stitch Plate Seam Guide

To sew a straight line, your eye must NOT pay attention to the needle as it stitches, but rather on a seam guide and at least 1/2" ahead of the needle (closer to you). This will give you enough time to maneuver your fabric and adjust it should it go astray.

Most sewing machines will have a metal plate under the presser foot. You'll notice that guidelines are etched on either side of the foot, and this is to the mark 1/8" increments to the left and right of the needle on the center position.

Every sewing machine brand may differ, but you may see a 3/8" guideline parallel to the edge of the foot on the right, then 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", with some machines up to 1 1/2". You will see these lines mirrored onto the left of the needle too.

2) Painters Tape

If the etched seam guidelines are too thin for you to see, try sticking down painter’s tape along your seam allowance guide. This makes a bolder guide that’s not to be missed.

If placing your tape to the right of your presser foot, use the left edge of the tape as your guide. Do not place the tape under the needle or over the feed dogs; this will prevent you from stitching.

If your machine offers an extended sewing table, you can continue your seam guide tape farther ahead from the presser foot. Just be sure to stick the tape down accurately.

Temporarily use painters, masking or washi tape as your seam guide.

3) Specialty Presser Foot

Some sewing machine brands will have specialty feet and accessories to help you sew accurately. There are seam guide attachments that will be available either as a stopper which you can install to the right of your needle, a ruler that you can set to your seam allowance width, or an extendable sewing surface with seam guide markings.

An adjustable seam guide is separate from the foot and is attached to the sewing bed of the machine. Have your fabric line up against it for accurate sewing.

The seam guide ruler is attached to the presser foot for precise guidance and for keeping seam spacings perfectly parallel.

A slide-on tray table provides an extended and wider sewing area but it is also equipt with seam guidelines and an adjustable seam guide that slides along the table.

All sewing machine accessories noted above are compatible with most Bernina models.

Happy Sewing!

Carla

Beginner's Sewing Course Instructor