A Note From The Founders...

Historians and archaeologists continue to seek evidence of perfume use over the ages, and examples of unusual and rare perfume vessels are included in museums around the world. In our Vault gallery on the lower level, we showcase our collection of ancient perfume artifacts, featuring some of the most significant and treasured pieces from the Perfume Passage collection.

Pictured above: Wearing a red coat and black tricorn hat, this traveling salesman stands atop a podium to display his wares. He holds up a perfume bottle and extends a white handkerchief to the gathering townspeople below. This European oil on canvas dates around 1670.

In this issue, we're excited to delve into the ancient mysteries of fragrances and share fascinating items from centuries past!

Sincerely,

Jeffrey and Rusty,

Co-founders



The displays throughout Perfume Passage trace the evolution of perfumes from their ancient roots to the contemporary synthetics created today. While we know most collectors focus on finding perfumes and related vanity items from the past 500 years, scents have been around much longer than that. Fragrances were widely used in ancient cultures including Rome, Greece, Egypt and China.

• Egyptians believed that scents were gifts from the gods and could have magical powers. Perfumes were a status symbol worn by both men and women and popular ingredients were cinnamon, Myrrh and Frankincense.

• The ancient Greeks believed that perfumes had medicinal benefits.

• The Romans embraced fragrances to mask unpleasant odors and to ward off evil spirits!

• In ancient China, perfumes were more often used as incense than as wearables.

As you step into the Vault gallery, a stunning custom wall mural (below), created by Chicago artist Sarah Anderson, illustrates the timeline and beauty of perfume through the ages. Did you know that cuneiform tablets—those interesting clay tablets inscribed with wedge-shaped symbols—were used to record information? Baked in kilns or sun-dried, they became permanent historical records.

One such remarkable tablet from Mesopotamia (part of modern-day Iraq, Syria, Turkey and Iran), dating back over 3,000 years, identified a woman named Tapputi as the very first recorded perfume maker! The mural includes a representation of Tapputi (second from the left).

When discussing ancient artifacts, it's helpful to understand the concept of chronology in history, which refers to the order of events over time. Understanding the sequence of these events allows us to identify trends, ideas and social norms, which can be relevant when exploring the history of perfumery.

Traditionally, the dating system of AD and BC centers around the birth of Jesus Christ, around the 6th century. Events that took place before the birth are marked with BC, or Before Christ, while those that occurred afterward are marked with AD, from the Latin phrase "anno domini," or "in the year of our Lord."

For a non-religious alternative, BCE stands for Before Common Era, aligning with BC. CE ( Common Era) then takes the place of AD.

Typically, if a date doesn't include BC or AD, it is assumed to be AD. Interestingly, the years before Christ count down, while the years after his birth count up. And, there is no year '0' so 1 BC is followed by AD 1.

Expanding on timelines, the past can be subdivided into periods, which can then be broken down into ages and eras.

We included this brief explanation to help you appreciate the approximate dates of the artifacts within the Perfume Passage collection. Notably, the oldest artifact in our collection dates back to 2500 BCE. That means the artifact is from 4524 years ago! Since the current year is 2025 CE, you add 2500 to 2025 to get 4525. Then, subtract one to account for the year 0, as it doesn't exist in the BCE/CE system, resulting in 4524 years ago.

Fragrances in ancient civilizations served many of the same purposes as they do today—used in ceremonies, cosmetics and for medicinal purposes. In various ancient societies, these scents were often reserved for the nobility and the upper classes. Historians have documented the use of perfumes and fragrant oils, along with their containers, dating back centuries. The stories behind these rare artifacts inspire us to explore the art of perfumery from different perspectives.

Egyptian

Nefertem was a prominent figure in ancient Egyptian mythology, known as the god of perfume, and is often associated with healing and aromatherapy. He is symbolized by the blue lotus, lion and perfume, and is usually depicted as a youthful god associated with the lotus flower.

Around 30 BCE the ancient God of Bes was worshiped as a household protector, especially of women and children.

He eventually was associated with the pleasures of life and was often featured on every day iems such as this cosmetic container.



Greek

In Greek mythology it's been said that the gods devloped perfumes and would present fragrances as a gift. The earliest scents were used in religious ceremonies and the majority of aromas contained myrrh in addition to frankincense, saffron, florals and cinnamon.

(Below) Although this woman wears a veil and a classic archaic smile, her long, dove-shaped body identifies her as a siren. These mythical part-bird, part-women creatures are known for using their beautiful singing voices to lure sailors to their deaths. Most likely Greek, probably Corinthian, from the 6th century BCE.

This painted terracotta aryballos (above) is in the form of a warrior's head and is wearing an Ionian helmet. It dates from around 590 BCE.



An amphoriskos is a small, two-handled jar used in ancient Greece and Rome, typically made of ceramic or glass. It's usually a miniature version of a larger jar and this reddish one (left), dates from around 425 BCE.



ROMAN

An aryballos is a small, rounded or spherical flask used to hold perfume or oils. These two aryballos vessels (below) have original seals and are from the Roman Empire from around the 1st to 3rd century CE. The bottles held myrrh and when the Vault's display case is open, a slight aroma of the myrrh can be detected!

Miscellaneous

These three vases would have been worn around the neck, allowing perfume to drip from the open bottom onto the wearer's chest. They're from China's Tang Dynasty, 618-900 CE.



This 15th century African bronze female figure is holding a mirror and perfume vial.

The word "rare" actually describes all the ancient artifacts in our collection. However, to come across a tombstone with a vanity related theme is certainly a rare occurance!

This 33.5” x 17.1” tombstone is from the Eastern Roman Empire, commonly referred to as the Byzantine Empire, dating back to around 330 CE, a time when Emperor Constantine relocated the capital to Constantinople. It extends to 1453 CE, marking the fall of the city to the Ottoman Turks and the end of the Eastern Roman Empire.

Carved for a husband and wife, the tombstone features their busts placed beneath a graceful archway, framed by two pillars adorned with scrolling motifs. The couple gazes out with almond-shaped eyes, conveying a sense of eternity. An inscription engraved on the archway notes the year of their passing — 241/4, with the text below honoring Lukianos Tatianis and his beloved wife.

Beneath the wife are a mirror, a perfume bottle and a comb, all symbols of her beauty. Near the husband lies a vine knife, hinting at his role as a farmer. Their positioning beneath the archway suggests that they're on the verge of breaching a threshold, perhaps passing through the gates of Hades into the afterlife.

The tombstone is displayed in the Vault gallery, attached to a sturdy mount. It was purchased through an auction house.

• Perfumes were used in mumification rituals in ancient times, as aromatic oils were believed to help with preservation, as well as the deceased's journey to the afterlife.

• The oldest known perfumes come from Cyprus and date back over 4,000 years, as some were discovered during archaeological digs.

A few weeks ago, The Elgin (Illinois) Symphony marked an incredible milestone—its 75^th anniversary! They celebrated at the Sanfilippo estate, where over 250 guests gathered for an incredible evening. Attendees toured the house, learned about the vintage music machines, listened to a concert on the Wurlitzer Theater Organ performed by Symphony musicians and enjoyed dinner in the Carousel Pavilion. Guests, including Chicago mayor Brandon Johnson, who is an Elgin native, also had the opportunity to tour Perfume Passage!

Perfume Passage was excited to host a group of interns from the Fisher Nut Company this summer for a tour and lunch! They asked great questions about the history of perfume and the current trends in the fragrance industry. They enjoyed sampling a variety of scents, including the unforgettable “Dirt” fragrance that debuted at Cubs games in 2019 at Wrigley Field. The interns had a good time, leaving with a newfound appreciation for the art of perfume bottles and vanity items! 

Our mission is to preserve the history, beauty and artistry of perfume bottles, compacts, ephemera and related vanity items. Through education, outreach, and awareness of the Perfume Passage collection and library, our goal is to inspire art lovers, collectors, arts and curators to keep this history alive. 

Perfume Passage Foundation perfumepassage.org