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I think my favourite compliment paid to Bellamy’s was by a wonderful old American. On his way out one day he said ‘Gavin, I have to tell you. This place is class with a capital K.’ A remarkable man, he was the third American to join British forces on the outbreak of the Second World War, as an officer in the Royal Navy, thereby submitting himself to four years of Arctic convoys on the dreaded Murmansk runs.
In the 1980s, when in the caviar business at a time when annual contracts with Russia were required, I found myself in Hamburg which was a major staging post for the Soviets. For some reason I was detained there, and was hospitably asked to an Easter party by the Russian Trade Delegation. Immersed in clouds of vodka, we were treated to a terrific performance by the celebrated mezzo-soprano, Madame Elena Vasilyevna Obraztsova who was, as a Russian confided in me, ‘in Hamburg to buy Mercedes for new lover.’
The audience was much moved and at the end there were roars of applause with demands for an encore, which turned rapidly to pleadings as she swept majestically from the room. After a quarter of an hour she swept back in, sat at the piano, thought about things, and then swept out again. My Russian friend turned to me, shrugged his shoulders apologetically, and said : ‘Artist’. Further thunderous entreaties resulted, and after another quarter of an hour it became clear that Madame really was not going to return. My Russian turned to me, eyes shining with tears, and said ‘GREAT Artist !’
Mayfair too is a Diva. A marvellous, magnificent, difficult, flirtatious, disreputable, old lady, she wakes from winter and dances her creaky jig to Spring while trying to avoid looking too closely at the ‘monstrous carbuncles’ which have sprung up around her. As always, Bellamy’s celebrates with a new menu, devised by the great Stéphane, which this time features arrivals such as Bulots et mayonnaise; green and white asparagus, marinated herrings, swordfish, baby lamb and fraises au champagne. No defensive ordering needed, so do come and give us a whirl, whether for the first, or for the umpteenth, time.
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