Issue 7, December 07, 2022
The very latest gem news...
 
Last Week
Our feature on a possible coated conch pearl gained high marks with our readership last week, along with the Hong Kong auction results. Are we beginning to see a trend, that we want more on original content gemology, trade shows and auction results? We shall see with this week's selection. 


Original Content
This week, we focus on diamonds. What is a "Circular Brilliant?" What can we tell from Fancy Color Diamond auction results? And what else sold at auction? Looks like pieces from famous jewelry houses did very well!

... and more!

Next Week
We will have even more from Christie's Magnificent Jewels auction last night and we will have the results from tonight's Sotheby's Magnificent Jewels sale. 

We'll also continue our Tucson update. 

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Read On ... Issue 7 of the new Roskin Gem News Report Newsletter. 

Enjoy!
Gary Roskin
What is a "Circular Brilliant"?

The Palm Tree Brooch
Christie's Auction, Dec. 6
Gary Roskin -
Roskin Gem News Report -
December 07, 2022 -

The Palm Tree Brooch, a Cartier estate piece, was purchased at auction last evening for $1,008,000, $300,000 over the auction estimate. It is a magnificent piece, and one in which you do not appreciate scale until it is worn. (see images) The center stone is 13 carats! 

A "Circular Brilliant?"
The shape of the center diamond is, according to GIA's diamond grading report, a "circular brilliant." This not a common description, but one worth noting. 

Let's talk about the Palm Tree, and it's prominent diamond, a "circular brilliant." 

Top Ten Results
7 out of 10 - Fancy Color Diamonds!
Gary Roskin -
Roskin Gem News Report -
December 07, 2022 -

Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Jewelry, Christie's, sent us over the top ten list from last evening's auction. Seven of the ten top sellers were fancy color diamonds.

This included the blue, a 31.62 carat, VVS1 (potentially internally flawless), Fancy Blue pear shape, mounted in a necklace set with colorless and pink diamond melee, front and back. 

Other fancy color diamonds making the top ten were a 107 carat Fancy Yellow cushion by Graff, a Fancy Intense Blue oval, 2.21 carats, a 104 carat Fancy Intense Yellow modified pear shape, a Fancy Vivid Blue rose cut, a pair of earrings set with fancy color heart shape diamonds, and "The DeBeers Yellow," a 13.75 carat Fancy Vivid Yellow internally flawless emerald cut.

According to Christie's, this 31 carat blue pear shape was the largest Fancy Blue diamond ever to go up for auction. Estimate: $10,000,000 - $15,000,000
It sold for ... 

Famous Jewelry Houses Did Well Too!
What We Can Learn From This
Gary Roskin –
Roskin Gem News Report –
December 07, 2022 –

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND EMERALD 'MYSTERY-SET' FLOWER BROOCH

Calibré-cut rubies, emeralds and round diamonds, 18k rose gold and platinum (French marks), signed Van Cleef & Arpels, maker's mark, numbered, navy Van Cleef & Arpels case.

Estimate: $400,000-$600,000
Sold: $1,197,000


See the piece close up!
AN IMPORTANT GRAFF COLORED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND BROOCH

Fancy yellow round-cornered square brilliant-cut diamond of 107.46 carats, round and baguette-cut diamonds, 18k white and yellow gold, signed Graff, numbered, navy Graff presentation case and outer box

GIA, 2020, report no. 11796116: 107.46 carats, Fancy Yellow, natural color, VS2 clarity

Estimate: $1,200,000 - $2,500,000
Sold: $2,580,000

If you think the back looks great, wait till you see the front!
In general, blue Sapphires did very well, doubling and tripling estimates, while emeralds sold but mostly at estimated values. The noticeable thread was that Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Faberge, Raymond Yard, Assael, Chaumet, Tiffany, and Fouquet have name recognition for quality that generates good sales, doubling, tripling, and with Cartier and Tiffany, 5 times and 6 times the estimated sale.

TUCSON

AGA Conference & Gala
Accredited Gemologists Association
Gary Roskin –
Roskin Gem News Report –
December 07, 2022 –

2023 AGA Tucson Conference
Register to join us Wednesday, February 01, 2023
 
Conference features include a stellar lineup of six gemological education presentations and three hands-on sessions.
 
All gemological presentations will be live-streamed and recorded; and all registrants (in-person & virtual) will receive access to the recorded sessions, when made published by AGA.
 
2023 AGA Tucson Gala
AGA welcomes all to join the evening that celebrates a shared passion for gemology, its profession, and the people in it - at the AGA Gala.
 
Attended by conference participants, industry leaders, and members of the gem and jewelry trade; the evening includes cocktails, dinner, a silent auction, music, dancing, and the much-anticipated “live” presentation of AGA’s Antonio C. Bonanno Award for Excellence in Gemology to the 2022 recipient, Gary Roskin.
 

Meg Berry
Hidden Treasures; Finding the Jewel in Gem Rough

Mark Cullinan

Alan Hodgkinson
“Live Stream interview with Alan Hodgkinson”

Robert Weldon
Digital Photography of Gemstones and Jewelry
A practical, eye-opening "how-to" that focuses on the photography tools, gem staging and positioning, lighting approaches - as well as some post-processing techniques of gemstone and jewelry photography.

Gary Roskin
New Directions for the International Gem Trade Show Business
A look at how global economics alter the gem exhibitions landscape.

Dr. Clemens Schwarzinger
Tanzanite and fancy zoisites - color, chemistry and cutting

Sarah Caldwell Steele
Hands-on Workshops (1-3)
Session 1, by Sarah Caldwell Steele
Back to Black
Black stone identification

Richard Hughes
Session 2, by Richard Hughes
Jade Identification
This workshop will focus on the identification of jade (nephrite and jadeite), including simulants and treated jade.

Kerry Gregory
Session 3, by Kerry Gregory
Treasure from Trash – Hands-On!
Learn how to quickly, efficiently, and profitably sort through a mixed parcel of gemstones to find the value.


Direct Registration links:
·       Register for AGA Gala only
TUCSON

NAJA ACE It Conference
National Association of Jewelry Appraisers
RoskinGemNewsReport.com –
Gary Roskin –
December 07, 2022 –
 
The National Association of Jewelry Appraisers (NAJA) returns to Tucson for its 59th ACE©It Conference, January 29th and 30th, 2023.
 
“Webinars are great; after all, the NAJA remained busy during 2020, 2021 and 2022 presenting educational programs delivered thru webinars and virtual conferences for not only our membership, but also the appraisal community at large,” writes Gail Levine, Executive Director.
 
“However, as gem and jewelry appraisers know, when it comes to gem-centric appraisal education, there is no place like the NAJA in Tucson! It is the one venue that really offers the entire package.”
 
The week starts with practical, appraisal presentations and professional relationship building opportunities and then continues with more chances to examine gems and experience the market at the shows.
 
The Pearl Walk!
Special Event at Tucson February 2, 11 AM to Noon, The Annual Lois Berger Pearl Walk - visiting four pearl dealers led by Renee Newman, GIA GG. Members only and it is free! Limited to 15 attendees. What to Bring: comfortable western casual.
 
Sunday January 29th
7:30 AM Registration, Coffee Service, Greenlee Exhibit Room
8:00 AM Welcome and Conference Notes, Maricopa Room
8:30 AM Jade: China’s Gift to the World, Richard Hughes
10:00 AM A Canary in the Ruby Mine, Billie Hughes & Wim Vertriest
11:00 AM Beauty, Value and the Power of Gem Cutting, Justin Prim
1:30 PM The Evaluation and Interpretation of Gem Carvings, Ciğdem Lüle
3:00 PM Communication, Consulting and Contracting, Deborah Finleon
4:00 PM Lab-Grown Diamonds – Screening Challenges, Guy Borenstein (90 minutes)
 
Monday January 30th
7:30 AM Registration & Coffee Service, Greenlee Exhibit Room
8:00 AM Conference Notes & Updates. Maricopa Room
8:30 AM State of the Industry – Post Covid, Harold Dupuy
10:00 AM Demantoid Garnet: Gemology, Origin and Treatment, Aaron Palke
11:00 AM Diamond Cuts & Qualities in Jewelry from 1300 until Now, Renee Neman
1:30 PM What in the World are these Marks? Danusia Nikilewicz
3:00 PM Rock Creek Sapphires - Montana’s Treasure, Warren Boyd
4:00 PM Practical Spectroscope, Sam Lloyd (90 minutes)

From the Gem & Mineral Vault

Rhodochrosite

from Peru

on view at the Harvard Mineralogical & Geological Museum (MGM), Cambridge, Massachusetts, across the Charles River from Boston.










Photo by Gary Roskin
Queen's love of pearls showcased in The Crown - 'favoured gemstone'
Express.co.UK -
By KATIE SEWELL -
Fri, Dec 2, 2022 -

The Queen rarely stepped out without a simple pearl necklace over the course of her 70-year reign, and her love affair with the gemstone has been depicted in the latest series of The Crown.

Royal fans have delighted in the latest series of Netflix's hit royal drama The Crown. Series five has fictionally tracked the ups and downs of Britain's most famous family in the 1990s, and actress Imelda Staunton has played Queen Elizabeth II in this instalment.

True to reality, Imelda Staunton often appears in scenes wearing a pearl necklace - a staple of the Queen's wardrobe in real life.
Pearls have long been associated with British upper-class ladies, and this is alluded to in one of series five's key scenes.

Cultured Pearl Association of America CPAA
U.S. & International Winners of the 2022 International Pearl Design Competition
US National
President’s Trophy. 

This top prize is given to the piece deemed the most beautiful and original design concept that is well made, celebrates pearls, and leaves a lasting impression of pearls as must-have gems.

Winner: Oceana Pearl earrings by
Tariq Riaz LLC
US National
Visionary Award for Classic Styles. 

This winning piece is attractive, creative, and salable, championing a fresh look for an iconic pearl style—strands, studs, bracelets, or a ring—to help change the dated perception of pearls in the market.

Winner: Nautilus earrings by
Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry, Inc.
US National
Retailer’s Choice Award.

CPAA asked 4,000 of the nation's top jewelry stores to choose their single favorite piece from all U.S. finalists.

Winner: Thermal Blue Byzance earrings by Katerina Wheeler of Katerina Evanthia
International
President’s Trophy. 

This top prize is given to the piece deemed the most beautiful and original design concept that is well made, celebrates pearls, and leaves a lasting impression of pearls as must-have gems.

Winner: Kentsugi bracelet by Shikha Pathak for C Krishniah Chetty Group of Jewellers of India
International
Visionary Award for Classic Styles.

This winning piece is attractive, creative, and salable, championing a fresh look for an iconic pearl style—strands, studs, bracelets, or a ring—to help change the dated perception of pearls in the market.
(one of two winners)

Winner 1: Bubble ring by Melanie Georgacopoulos of Melanie Georgacopoulos of the U.K.
“Gems and Carvings”
GetNews -
December 1, 2022 -

Nephrite Jade sculpture / carving

It took nearly two years to finish. I consider this to be probably the most beautiful, unique and daring design for a Medusa ever created. As you know Jade is a very hard stone and will always represent a great challenge for carving it in such detail and complex shapes.

CARVABILITY : Even though jade is tough and harder than many minerals, it’s an ideal carving material. Its texture and durability have allowed carvers to make unusual objects and intricate designs for centuries that do not chip or break.

Jades superiority for ancient cultures to regard as a divine gift from heaven. Ancient people believed that jade is the vehicle of communication with the unseen power of the universe.

There are a total of 27 snakes in Medusa, carefully curated, they are the most poisonous in the World, including Indian Taipan, Black Mamba, King Cobra, Banded Krait, Russell Viper, Saw Scaled Viper and Yellow Bellied Sea Snake. The Medusa rests on a natural thick slab of agate quartz.


Nephrite Jade Medusa Sculpture
Dimensions: 60 x 40 x 60 cm


To support these comparisons, the Book of Verse says, when i think of a wise man, his merits appear to be like jade”

Unlike gold, the value of jade has not fluctuated, it has only risen.


Julia Gogol was born in 1977 in Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek.

Her path as an artist began with a children’s art school.
Then she graduated from the restoration lyceum.

In 2009 she graduated from the Academy of Arts, faculty of sculpture with honors.

In 2013, she studied stone carving at the workshop of Sergei Falkin.

Her very first stone-cutting work was acquired by the Hermitage Museum.

Julia has developed her own unique style in working with stone. She takes images for her works from the depths of the subconscious. Therefore, the artist fell in love with a transparent stone – quartz. It is best suited to bring to light those feelings and experiences that cannot be said in words, cannot be expressed by any other means.

Julia Gogol actively participates in exhibitions and competitions of stone-cutting and jewelry art.

Her works are in the collection of the Hermitage and in private collections in Russia and abroad.

Quartz Sculpture – Ecclesiastes by Julia Gogol
The work “Ecclesiastes” refers the viewer to the image
King Solomon (the authorship of the book under the pseudonym “Ecclesiastes” is attributed to him) – the wisest man who had wealth, human happiness in his life, built a great temple and as a result wrote that all this does not matter, everything is vanity and vexation spirit …

A closer look - the Diavik Midnight Sun
An interview with Musson

Pink and yellow fancy colour diamonds from two Rio Tinto mines – Australia’s Argyle and Canada’s Diavik – have been combined in a single ring valued at $AU1.85 million.

Known as the Diavik Midnight Sun, the ring was designed and created by Australian jeweller Olivar Musson.

“To create this piece is an honor. It continues our legacy and that’s deeply important to us,” says Musson.

“Making something that is going to be truly treasured, that is what drives us each and every day.”

OLIVAR MUSSON, MUSSON JEWELLERS

“Making something that is going to be truly treasured, that is what drives us each and every day.”

Musson worked in collaboration with rare gemstone specialist John Glajz as a part of Rio Tinto’s Icon Partner program.

The hero 18.08-carat fancy intense yellow oval diamond has been set into a ring featuring a bouquet of 4.09-carats of pink diamonds.

“The warmth, potency, and beauty inherent in the golden and pink hues of this natural wonder are truly embodied in this enthralling creation,” explained Patrick Coppens, Rio Tinto’s general manager of diamonds sales and marketing.

The Diavik mine has been operating since 2003 and with fancy colour yellow diamonds accounting for only 1 per cent of total production. The Argyle mine closed in 2020 and was the world’s only known significant source of pink diamonds.

Thank you





Another amazing week for gem news! And we will keep reporting!
Stay informed and keep in touch. We'd like to know where you've been and what gems you've seen.

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We will see you again SOON!

Stay safe and stay healthy!

Gary Roskin
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