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1730 Saturday, August 19, 2023
This morning began before the sun. The plan was to make a good portion of the 45 miles to Bonavista before the forecast 25 knot headwind kicked in. The forecast had said the heavier wind would start around noon. I have also realized that forecasts here often underestimate wind speed.
So, at 0450, in total darkness we eased off of the wharf and headed out. The wind was already making itself known, but, only 10 knots. Soon the sky turned to lilacs, purples and crimsons. Dawn was breaking; before long the hues shifted to yellows and oranges across the eastern horizon. At 0600 the firey, blood orange ball of the sun crested the morning sea. A lighthouse on a lonely, rocky islet was silhouetted against the pale sky. As the sun rose, so did the wind, directly from the direction of Bonavista. We still had close to 40 miles to go and seas were quickly building. By 0700 it was blowing a full 25 knots and our progress slowed to the point that we would be luck to make Bonavista by dark! And now the forecaster were calling for the wind to increase.
A few local fisherman were out, some in small boats. It seemed as if the wind and sea state were catching them earlier than anticipated, as well. They seemed to be trying to finish their work quickly and return home.
The safe choice is always the wise choice at sea. Part of sailing is making the right choice. We revised our plan in light of the winds arriving far sooner than anticipated. We turned Tazzarin westward and eased sheets as we entered into the wide mouth of Bonavista Bay and headed for Puddingbag Cove, nestled in the bay's north shore. Bonavista will wait for another day. Puddingbag Cove is shaped a bit like a sac with a drawstring. It has a very narrow entrance and then opens into an idyllic and wild lagoon. Surely, the cove takes its name from the Newfoundland puddingbag, a traditional muslin sac used to make dinner puddings by combining meats or fish and vegetables, flour and seasonings to cook a meal in boiling water. Newfoundland is filled with many wonderful place names that tie to its history and culture. Pork Bangbelly and Jigs Dinner our two classic recipes for these bags. Restaurants in the St. John's area often advertise Jigs Dinners, a local favorite.
The wind is supposed to build a bit tonight and by morning the seas will be worse. We may just spend the day here tomorrow and explore the recesses of the puddingbag by dinghy. By the following day a more favorable wind is forecast. Bonavista happens to be the windiest place in Newfoundland; these couple of days are proving it!
I am cautiously keeping an eye on the engine, nursing and bleeding air from its thirsty coolant system. A lot of signs a pointing to needing a new heat exchanger. I won't have that until I get back to the Royal Newfoundland Yacht Club next week. So far, so good, knock on wood.
I want to again thank my friend, Yati Harsono, for all her help over the past two months. She is my main communications link. When I am out of cell phone reception (which I have been for much of these past two months) she receives my text and photos from my Iridium satellite link. She then nicely prepares and formats them for you and sends it out. Be sure to thank her if you happen to know her. Thank you, Yati!
Bill
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