Rough diamond crystal. Transmitted and reflected light. Image by Gary Roskin. Diamond provided by AMGAD.


Issue 25, October 17, 2024

Top Newsletter Features from our last Report:



#1.) Who Wore What Jewels

at the 2024 Emmy Awards


Stunning Red Carpet Moments


LauraLee -

WhoWoreWhatJewels.com -


We are so glad that the 2024 Emmy Awards are back, if only to see the jewels being worn on eth red carpet!


"After last year’s SAG strike reshuffle, we’re finally seeing the stars step out this fall, and they did not hold back. Bvlgari Serpenti necklaces slithered across the red carpet on everyone from Saoirse Ronan to Maya Rudolph and Da’Vine Joy Randolph. Of course, diamonds kept things timeless, but it was the bold pops of color—think Kristin Scott Thomas and Laura Dern—that had us buzzing. Dern even gave a cheeky nod to her show, Palm Royale.


Ready for the night’s best gems? Let’s dive in!"


Lauralee gives us that signature close-up with several stunning displays. Here we see Greta Lee wearing Tiffany & Co. diamond earrings set in platinum, featuring over 19 carats of tanzanite centers!


This should get you interested to click in and see the rest!


Tap Here to see Lauralee's coverage of the Jewels at the Emmys!





Second week in a row...


#2.) Tracing Pearls from Oyster to Counter

RFID Tags Inside Cultured Pearls


GIA’s Pearl Reports Include Traceability Information

Can it do More?


GIA Press Release –

the Gemological Institute of America

Roskin Gem News Report –


GIA reports for cultured pearls containing the Metakaku® bead nuclei embedded with radio frequency identification (RFID) tags will now receive a report comment with the unique RFID reference number of the pearl, advancing tracing capability and source transparency.


GIA Steps Forward

Tom Moses, GIA executive vice president and chief laboratory and research officer, explains. “As sustainability becomes increasingly important to consumers, this technology can play a vital role in telling the complete story of these gems,” said Moses.


New Technology - Metakaku®

The Fukui Shell Nucleus Factory technology, Metakaku®, embeds a wireless RFID digital tag into the pearl’s nucleus so its origin and movement along the supply chain can easily be tracked. The RFID tag with its unique registry number, can easily be detected by an RFID reader during examination of the pearl. Adding the reference tracking number to the GIA Cultured Pearl Classification Reports uniquely identifies each pearl, matching it with its quality attributes based on the GIA 7 Pearl Value Factors.


We spoke to Fukui's David Wong to find out more - lots more!


Tap here to get all of the details you may have missed elsewhere!





#3.) Heritage Fall Signature Auction


Signed Pieces have a Good Day at the House!


Gary Roskin -

Roskin Gem News Report -


There were 517 items offered, 416 items sold on Monday in this Fall sale from Heritage Auctions, Dallas, Texas, with seven (7) of the top eight (8) high sales items being noteworthy diamonds. One of the headliners, a 5.01 carat pear shape brilliant, D color, Internally Flawless Type IIa diamond, set in platinum, flanked by two tapered baguettes. The diamond ring sold for $300,000 including the Buyers Premium (BP).


Following the top diamonds on the featured list is this beautiful Sri Lankan blue Sapphire, cushion cut, no heat, surrounded by diamonds and calibré cut Sri Lankan blue sapphires.


Condition notes in the catalogue state that the sapphire faces-up silky. Under magnification, one sees "blankets" of reflective rutile silk further reaffirming the AGL call of unheated.


Tap here to see several of the more impressive results!


THIS WEEK

in the Roskin Gem News Report

Auctions - "If you have to ask, you can't afford it." - J.P. Morgan

The Details

Rio Tinto's "Beyond Rare"

Very Rare Lots: Argyle Pinks, Reds, & Violets

plus two important Diavik's - Yellow and Colorless


The 2024 Beyond Rare Tender

The Argyle Diamond Mine in Western Australia has been closed now for a few years, but when the mine was operating, there were annual silent bid auctions called Argyle Pink Diamond Tenders, where the best of the best found that year were offered for sale to an invitation-only list of guests.


While at JCK Magazine as their Senior Gemstone Editor, and knowing a few VIP members of the trade with invitations who graciously invited me to join them, we were able to cover the details of many of these rare viewings, including some of the most rare and beautiful fancy pink diamonds ever known.


Since the mine's closing in 2020, Rio Tinto, parent mining company of Argyle, has been bringing to its Beyond Rare silent bid auction tenders, Argyle fancy pinks, violets, and reds, that, for whatever reason, were never included in past tenders.


Maybe they were considered too small, or too low in clarity, or thinking ahead - saved for a later date.


This year's Beyond Rare Tender, we see included "Seven Old Masters." We believe that these diamonds were once part of previous Argyle Pink Diamond Tenders. We were able to deduce that one of these rare diamonds, the Fancy Red, came from one of those auctions.


Here's the List: Up for Auction

30-ish Fancy Vivids

1 Fancy Red

1 Fancy Purplish-Red

3 Gray-Violets

(& other Grays/Violets)

3+ Fancy Deep Pinks

1 4.04 cts. D-color Type IIa

1 2.47 cts. Fancy Intense Yellow


... as well as several matched pairs, and a few suites as well.


In total there are 76 diamonds, weighing 39.44 carats, comprising:


• Seven Old Masters*, including that one Fancy Red diamond;


• 32 exquisite single lots of pink and violet diamonds, including one Fancy Purplish Red diamond; and


• A rarified offering of nine carefully curated diamond sets, two sets including a 2.47ct Fancy Intense Yellow diamond and a 4.04ct D colour diamond respectively, each from Rio Tinto’s Diavik Diamond Mine in Canada.


The 48 lots will be showcased in London, Australia, Singapore and Belgium, with bids closing on November18, 2024.


Tap here for more details - and images! - from this special tender!

FEEG SYMPOSIUM

 


5th presentation – Auditorium 

  • Speaker Thomas Hainschwang « Pink to Red and Violet Diamonds from the Argyle Mine, Australia: Properties, Color, Origin and Latest Research Results” and Q&A 



Tap here for more Symposium information

Education / Associations

The Journal of the Gemmological Association of Hong Kong

2024 – the 45th Anniversary Copy!

The 45th anniversary of the GAHK Journal is now available through the GAHK.org website.


So many great feature stories in this issue including the Heat Treatment of Demantoid Garnet, The Importance of Geographic Origin of Ruby, Gemmological Features of Pink and Purple Diamonds from Siberia, and a panel review on the Jewellery Industry in Hong Kong!


Tap here to see the entire lineup of feature stories and to follow the link to the GAHK website and download your own copy of the journal!


A Remembance

The Passing of the Torch

Alan Hodgkinson, Dead at Age 87

A Gemmologist for the Ages

Alan (John Alan William) Hodgkinson


Scottish Gemmologist, Author, Teacher


March 24, 1937 - October 7, 2024



We are very sad to report the passing of our friend and colleague, award winning Scottish gemologist, Alan Hodgkinson.

 

The consummate gentleman, jeweller and practical gemmologist, Hodgkinson authored his own experienced and often times  innovative gem testing procedures, Visual Optics, as well as a monumental gemmological textbook, Gem Testing Techniques, speaking directly to the identification of gemstones using commonly available - and affordable - gem testing equipment.


Hodgkinson taught, gave lectures and presentations, appraised jewellery, and was active with many valuers and gemmological associations, many of which awarded him honorary lifetime memberships, along with numerous medals and commendations.


To so many of us in the gem and jewelry industry, Alan Hodgkinson was the role model of a practical gemmologist.


He developed his own methods of testing, using simple visual observations to determine sophisticated gemological properties, all described in his books Visual Optics, and Gem Testing Techniques. He understood the science of light behavior in gemstones, and taught us how to use it all for gem identification.


He worked with filters, some he even helped develop (specifically those for separating natural from synthetic emerald).


Alan was awarded the first Diamond Award from the Canadian Gemmological Association (CGA), and the very first Antonio C. Bonanno Award for Excellence in Gemology by the Accredited Gemologists Association (AGA), all because of his gemological knowledge and his willingness, his passion, to share what he had learned or discovered.



On the life and fond memories of Alan Hodgkinson, tap here.



High Jewellery

Chaumet’s Dance

The High Jewellery Collection!

Chaumet

https://www.chaumet.com/us_en


Of the latest Chaumet high jewellery collections, Chaumet en Scène, Chaumet on Stage is their tribute to Dance. The craftsmanship and designs are outstanding, with matching quality gems.


Chaumet en Scène

“A tribute to dance, the second Chaumet en Scène tableau, features a series of choreographies in which the stones are the performers."


The dance theme is seen in the diamonds being set into large sweeping necklaces, while the colored gemstone necklaces tumble gracefully down the shoulders towards the pendant.


"Combining disciplines, Ceylon sapphires perform a contemporary ballet while the diamonds, tourmalines and rubellites engage in a frenzied tango, and the violet sapphires swing alongside their gold and material work.”


Tap here to See Chaumet's High Jewellery Collection



Chaumet meets the Road Show

Chaumet in a Shoebox

the Big Reveal on the BBC's Antiques Road Show

In with Bits n Bobs

Time to check all of your shoeboxes filled with odds and ends to see if you can turn up a nice bejeweled find! While you may encounter too many sterling and CZ jewels, one never knows when a real natural beauty may appear. As was the case here, a Chaumet carved rock crystal, ruby, and diamond platinum brooch sitting in a shoebox full of costume jewelry, was uncovered after some 30+ years!

  

In this segment of the BBC's Antiques Road Show, some lucky lady has been wearing a Chaumet platinum brooch believing that it was most likely costume jewelry. Just kept in the closet, in a shoebox with other similar "bits n bobs."


Tap here to watch the reveal!



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Now back to this week's news!



Malawi Mining

New Malawi Deposits

Large Morganites, Rose Quartz, Sapphire

Special thanks to Lee Horowitz, our friend and expert mining, gem & mineral consultant for the following images.


Here are a few new finds from the artisanal mining sector in East Africa - Malawi, Tanzania, and Kenya.


Interested? Let us know.


In the pictures above, Rose Quartz. "New rose quartz mine knocked cobbed cleaned 30 tons of material."


Images below, show Kenyan sapphire, from Garbatulla, Isiolo County.

Malawi Morganite


Artisanal Mining

Tuberculosis and Silicosis

Deadly Mining Conditions Plague Artisanal Miners

Mining & Trade Review -

Gary Roskin -

Roskin Gem News Report -


The spread of Tuberculosis (TB) is on the rise

among women miners in Southern Africa, creating a health crisis in the industry. With poor working conditions and limited access to healthcare, many women in the mining industry are at high risk of contracting the disease.


This issue was highlighted at the regional meeting of Southern African Development Community (SADC) Women in Mining Association, held from September 4th -7th, 2024 in Johannesburg, South Africa.


Delegates from various SADC countries gathered to review the progress made since the implementation of the Tuberculosis in the Mining Sector (TIMS) initiative in 2012.


Federation of Women and Youth in Mining (FWYM) Secretary Linda Vyachi Mphande who represented Malawi emphasized that tuberculosis remains a significant health threat to women miners, particularly those in artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM).


"Women miners face unique health challenges that are not always addressed in the broader mining health programs," she said.


Tap here for more on this report in the Mining & Trade Review

Follow this same link to a separate

feature story on Challenges Facing Women in Mining



Trade Shows

Ethical Gem Fair

Brooklyn New York

Going on NOW!

The Ethical Gem Suppliers is back in Brooklyn this week for a three-day trade-only event from Thursday, October 17 – Saturday, October 19, 2024.



Hosted at Brooklyn Metal Works, this exclusive opportunity invites industry professionals and students to learn, network, and shop from a curated lineup of responsible gem suppliers.


This year, you will see ANZA Gems, Capricorn Gems, Columbia Gem House, Nature’s Geometry/Quore, Nineteen48, and Perpetuum Jewels exhibiting.


When: October 17-19, 2024

Open from 10 AM – 5 PM daily


Where: Brooklyn Metalworks

640 Dean St, Brooklyn, NY 11238, Brooklyn, NY


Registration: Free registration available at www.ethicalgemsuppliers.com


For more information about the show, Tap Here!

Gemological Gifts

In Time for the Holidays

Gemmy Advent Calendar

Antique & Estate Card Games / Bejeweled Jigsaw Puzzle

Gemstone Photomicrography Calendar

We ran across three very noteworthy gift ideas for you and your staff, colleagues, family, ... for this approaching holiday season!


A Gemstone Photomicrography Calendar from Melisa Scarani at Gemology Resources. Calendar, wall posters, smart phone covers, and more!


The Quartets @ Adin Gifts: "Where history, education and fun meet!" From Adin Antique Jewelry in Antwerp.


And an Advent Calendar 2024 – Gemstone Course with 24 gems! And more, from Gemmology Rocks!


Tap here for all the details!

Upcoming Trade Shows & Events Calendar

If you know of an important trade show or event

and believe it should be listed here, contact us here!



Events

Gem-A Annual Conference and Graduation


Saturday and Sunday, November 2-3, 2024

At etc.venues County Hall in Central London


Contact us at info@gem-a.com


CIBJO’s 2024 Annual Congress

Shanghai, China

November 2 to November 4, 2024


Pre-congress meetings will be held on October 31 and November 1.


Trade Shows

Ethical Gem Fair NYC

Brooklyn, New York, USA

– October 17-19, 2024


New York City Jewelry & Watch Show

New York City Metropolitan Pavilion

- October 24-27, 2024


Mineralientage München and Gemworld Munich 2024

Munich, Germany

– October 24-27, 2024


JA New York – Fall

New York City

– October 27-29, 2024


GJT Dubai / Jewellery, Gem & Technology – Informa Markets

Dubai

– November 12-14, 2024


JWS Jewellery & Watch Show – Reed Exhibitions

Abu Dhabi

– November 13–17, 2024


Jewellery Arabia

Bahrain

– November 26–30, 2024



To learn more about the FACETS SRI LANKA 2025 Trade Show, Tap Here!

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The Canadian Gemmological Association

ASA - the American Society of Appraisers

AGTA - the American Gem Trade Association

AGA - the Accredited Gemologists Association

Gem-A - Gemmological Association of Great Britain

NAJA - the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers

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Stay safe and stay healthy!


Gary Roskin

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