Rough diamond crystal. Transmitted and reflected light. Image by Gary Roskin. Diamond provided by AMGAD. | | |
Top Newsletter Features from our last Report:
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#1.) Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Auction
A Big & Bold Colorful Showcase
—from Mughal to VC&A, Cartier, and More!
Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report
This top feature is a review of Christie's New York Magnificent Jewels Auction, on June 17th. Of course, there were diamonds—some of them truly remarkable—and we’ll showcase those in the next newsletter. But today, we’re focusing on the colored gemstone-set jewels that caught our attention.
So let's dive in.
In the Catalogue
As the catalogue notes, this auction featured "spectacular gemstones and designs from the world’s most renowned jewellery houses, including Bulgari, Cartier, Harry Winston, JAR, Van Cleef & Arpels, and many more." Christie's sale also included rare and beautiful Mughal jewels.
The Big, Bold, and Colorful
"Magnificent Jewels" certainly lived up to its name, showcasing some large and attention-getting colored gem-set jewels, period pieces, and signature designs.
Leading the non-diamond side of the sale was The Blue Belle, a very impressive - Big AND Bold 392-carat unheated Ceylon sapphire and diamond necklace (seen above) that achieved over $11 million.
That wasn’t the only sapphire to draw attention—there were three standout rings, each set with an exceptional blue sapphire: 1.) a 23.85-carat unheated Ceylon sapphire, mounted in a ring by JAR that sold for nearly $400,000; 2.) a 15.55-carat unheated Burmese sapphire, set into a ring by Cartier that brought in over $450,000; and 3.) an 8.45-carat unheated Kashmir sapphire, mounted in a ring by Van Cleef & Arpels that achieved more than $600,000!
India's Gemstone History - Large Carved Colombian Emeralds
Historical significance met bold design in two big and bold Mughal (Mogul) masterpieces: a carved Colombian emerald necklace featuring five carved emeralds that ranged in weight from 106 to 470 carats! (That's right - just five emeralds weighing almost 1,200 carats in one necklace!) That necklace sold for over $2.7 million. Then there was a three-strand Mughal necklace of large red spinel beads and good size natural pearls that reached more than $3.1 million!
It's Invisible
Van Cleef & Arpels was certainly well-represented, with several of its signature ‘Mystery-Set’ pieces: a large ruby and diamond pin - the Flower brooch - measuring nearly 4 inches across, that sold for $1.5 million; two pair of sapphire and diamond earrings, that sold for $250,000 each, as well as a similar flower brooch, that sold for $350,000; and two pairs of earrings, these set with ruby and diamonds—one pair that sold for $400,000, while the other sold for $800,000!
Cartier pieces also stood out, including a fabulous suite of coral and diamond jewels, a vivid 8.03-carat unheated Burmese pink sapphire ring flanked by large oval diamonds, which sold for nearly $1 million, and an Art Deco jabot brooch—set with carved rubies, cabochon emeralds, diamonds, with a big and bold 14 mm natural freshwater button pearl—that brought in just under $250,000, highlighting continued demand for signed period pieces.
Tap here to read the full COLOR feature - our review of Christie's Magnificent Jewels Auction, New York!
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#2.) "Phenomenal" Gems
When Mother Nature Puts on a Show
Color Change Gems: Alexandrite, Sapphire, & Spinel
... and Chatoyancy: a Chrysoberyl Cat's-Eye
Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report
On a personal note:
Writing about gems can be tricky business. As a journalist, you might write that you're bringing clarity to a story — but if you’re also a gemologist, that word hits differently. You don’t just read “clarity,” you see one of the 4Cs. You start thinking about grades, inclusions, maybe even reaching for the grading report.
The same goes for when writing about “phenomenal” gems. As a gemologist, the term phenomenal is reserved for only those gems with special powers:
asterism, showing a star;
chatoyancy, showing a cat’s-eye;
color-change, the changing of color in different lighting situations, as with an alexandrite;
adularescence, presenting a billowy blue or white light, sometimes in rainbow colors, as in a moonstone;
play-of-color, presenting a multitude of colors from the diffraction of visible light by closely packed silica spheres, as in an opal;
labradorescence, showing flashes of color, caused by interference of light within microscopic layers of feldspar, as with labradorite;
iridescence (or Orient), a rainbow of colors seen on the surface (or near the surface), caused by interference and diffraction of light reflecting from thin layers of nacre, as with pearls.
While the journalist can wax poetic about phenomenal gems when reporting on important or most beautiful jewels, the gemologist must reserve “phenomenal” for only those that have certain gemological characteristics.
Phenomenal gemstones do more than just display beautiful color—they exhibit those unusual optical effects caused by the way light interacts with their internal structures. Such effects aren’t just eye-catching—they’re diagnostic, helping gemologists identify both the species and the cutting orientation of the stone.
Collectively, these optical properties are known as phenomena, and the stones that display them are called phenomenal gems.
And this is where our pictorial begins — two phenomena, Color-Change and Chatoyancy, with four beautiful – and “phenomenal” – gems!
For a Phenomenal Time, Tap Here!
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#3) Victoria and Albert Museum
The Jewels of Cartier – a Special Exhibition
By Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report
The V&A is proud to present the UK’s first major exhibition in nearly 30 years dedicated to Cartier.
Featuring over 350 dazzling objects, the exhibition traces the evolution of the Maison from the turn of the 20th century to today - showcasing everything from royal commissions and historic gemstones to iconic timepieces and rarely seen archival materials.
The exhibition celebrates Cartier’s pioneering approach to design and craftsmanship, highlighting some of its most legendary creations - including the Williamson Diamond Brooch, Grace Kelly’s engagement ring, and the iconic Panthère jewels - that led the Maison to become the first globally recognised jewellery house.
Designed by British architect and artist Asif Khan MBE, the exhibition offers a striking and immersive environment in which to experience over a century of innovation and artistry.
ADDED BONUS:
Lunchtime Lectures: Cartier Inspiration and Innovation
This talk is part of the V&A Academy Lunchtime Lecture Series.
Tap here for all the details!
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THIS WEEK
in the Roskin Gem News Report
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Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Auction
The Diamond Report
GIA Graded over 30 Diamond Lots
including:
✅ The Marie-Thérèse Purple-Pink - $13.98 Million
✅ The 66.74-carat D, VVS1, Ex Ex Ex - $3.8 Million
✅ The 25.45-carat D, Flawless - $2.35 Million
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Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report
As you know, when the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) weighs in on a diamond’s quality, the industry pays attention—and rightfully so. GIA isn’t just a gemology school and gemological laboratory—it’s widely regarded as the most trusted and respected authority in the field.
That trust and respect was on full display as usual at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction in New York City a few weeks ago (June 17, 2025), where the star of the show—the Marie-Thérèse Fancy Purple-Pink, set in a JAR (Joel Arthur Rosenthal) fleur-de-lis mount—sold for a JAR-dropping (sorry) $13.98 Million!
Not only did GIA quality grade the 10.38-carat modified kite-shape brilliant, but it quality graded over 30 other diamonds in this sale.
A Royal History Imagined
Of course, this wasn’t just any pink diamond. The stone came steeped in royal history—or at least, presented as such. Said to have most likely originated in the famed Golconda region of India, the diamond has been attributed to Queen Marie Antoinette (1755–1793), although no official documentation confirms the connection.
According to family tradition and historical accounts cited by Christie’s, the diamond was reportedly passed down to her only surviving daughter, Duchess Marie-Thérèse of Angoulême (1778–1851), and later to her niece, the Duchess Marie-Thérèse of Chambord (1817–1886).
What we do know is that Queen Marie Theresa of Bavaria (1849–1919) eventually acquired the diamond— uncovered in her will, described as “a pink solitaire diamond from Aunt Chambord.” [That would be Duchess Marie-Thérèse of Chambord.]
Known today as the Marie-Thérèse Pink Diamond, the stone is distinguished not only by its rare and beautiful color, and its 18th century cutting style, but also for its notable—if only partially documented—royal provenance, carefully preserved through generations.
Examination by the GIA
“GIA evaluated the Marie-Thérèse Pink in advance of the auction, providing a detailed gemological assessment that confirms the diamond’s color origin and internal characteristics,” said Tom Moses, GIA’s Executive Vice President and Chief Laboratory and Research Officer. “Through our evaluations, GIA helps record the properties and history of these notable diamonds.”
That assessment gave the bidders the confidence to push the final selling price of the Marie-Thérèse Fancy Purple-Pink far beyond its pre-sale estimate of $3 to $5 million—ultimately establishing a final hammer price at nearly three times the high estimate.
Tap here to look at several of the important diamonds from Christie's Magnificent Jewels auction, graded by GIA.
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Rediscovering Red
Vietnamese Garnet and the Partnership Behind Its Return
"New" find of Vietnamese Pyrope-Almandine
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Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report
Over the course of decades in the business, Richard von Sternberg has handled more than his share of remarkable gems. He’s built a long career in the colored gemstone trade, and worked with diamonds as owner of the U.S.-based Eight Star Diamond Cutting factory.
In recent years, von Sternberg has championed couture-quality Ethiopian black opals. And today, in partnership with Bangkok-based gem expert Tom Banker, he’s turning much of his attention to something new—or perhaps rediscovered: vivid red pyrope-almandine garnet from Vietnam, a source with both pedigree and mystery.
Tap here to find out more about this new red garnet!
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France says it's a "Synthetic Diamond"
No (Again) to using "Lab Grown"... and Here's Why!
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Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report
In February of this year, we gave you several diamond discussions regarding the use of the terms "created," "lab/laboratory grown," and "synthetic." (see … and in Diamond News … )
And we are back with an update - from France.
The French governmental department of Competition, Consumer Affairs, and Fraud Prevention (DGCCRF) has just released a response to synthetic diamond manufacturers who have requested a reversal of the declaration pronounced earlier this year that the phrase "lab/laboratory grown" cannot be used to describe and market synthetic gem quality diamond.
Spoiler alert: The French Consumer Affairs agency has said, "No. No reversal."
BUT.... more importantly, they tell us why! And this is definitely worth reading!
Tap here to read more about why France will not allow "Lab Grown" to be used to describe synthetic diamond!
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The Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (GIT) Posts Rising Exports - For Now
as Trump to Announce More Tariffs (Aug. 1)
and Thailand is on the List!
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Gary Roskin
Roskin GemNews Report
Financial Review: Tariff Watch as Thailand’s Jewelry Exports Surge
Just a quick note—because when it comes to U.S. tariffs, nothing is ever set in stone.
According to a report on CNBC, at least 14 countries will face rising U.S. tariffs starting August 1, 2025, unless President Trump changes his mind. Among them: Japan, South Korea, Malaysia, Kazakhstan, South Africa, Laos, Myanmar, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Tunisia, Indonesia, Bangladesh, Serbia, Cambodia, and Thailand. Thailand’s rate is projected to hit 36%.
Meanwhile, The Nation reports Thailand’s gem and jewelry exports (excluding gold) hit $714.9 million in April, a 39.62% year-over-year surge according to GIT Director Sumed Prasongpongchai (seen here) —marking the sixth straight month of growth. It appears U.S. buyers are rushing to place orders before the tariffs take effect.
What happens after August 1 is anyone’s guess. - gr
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Paris Haute Couture Week
sees Graff go Back in Time to 1963
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Graff is turning heads in Paris this week (Paris Haute Couture Week) with a new high jewelry collection that marks the year the house was founded: 1963.
These pieces aren’t just about sparkle—though with over 129 carats of diamonds, there’s no shortage of that—they reflect the bold, rebellious spirit of the 1960s, brought to life through careful craftsmanship and Graff’s signature diamond work.
The collection includes a dramatic necklace, bracelet, and earrings set with more than 7,700 diamonds totaling over 129 carats—mostly ovals, baguettes, and round brilliants—arranged in bold, 1960s-inspired graphic patterns.
There’s also a bracelet featuring 18.26 carats of top-quality unheated Mozambican rubies (accented by 12.82 carats of round brilliant cut diamonds), a suite with "Royal Blue" unheated pear shape Sri Lankan sapphires, and a 1960s fringe necklace set with 65.89 carats of emerald cut and round brilliant cut diamonds. And for those paying close attention, a discreet line of pavé round cut emeralds is tucked into several designs—a quiet nod to Graff’s signature green.
| | Canadian Gemmological Association | |
DEADLINE EXTENDED!
Deadline is now July 15!
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The Canadian Gemmological Association (CGA) announces the extension of the last date to submit your design entries.
Students can now submit their designs by Tuesday, July 15, 2025, 11:59 pm EST. We can’t wait to see your entries.
All competitors can enter their submissions at www.canadiangemmological.com
2025 CGA Emerging Artist Design Competition Prizes include:
1st Place: $ 1000 CAD
2ndPlace: $ 500 CAD
3rd Place: $ 250 CAD
New Deadline – July 15, 2025.
"Creativity knows no bounds, and we want to ensure every brilliant idea has the chance to shine. That’s why we’re extending the deadline for our design contest to July 15, 2025. I encourage all students to use this extra time to push their boundaries and surprise us with their creative and innovative pieces. Seize the extra time to wow us with your best work!" said Donna Hawrelko, President of the CGA.
Winners will be announced later this year and the prize money will be awarded at that time.
The CGA Emerging Artist Design Competition is the only one of its kind in Canada, giving students global recognition for their work and honouring excellence in jewellery design.
Complete competition details can be found on the CGA website as well as information about past winners, like Mr. Jared Yue, winning First Place in 2024 for his piece titled "Bound," seen here below!
Tap here for the Link to Complete Contest Details
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NAJA - 64th Annual ACE©It
VIRTUAL Education Conference
August 9 - 10, 2025
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Conference Location: LIVE STREAM in Your Home!
Conference Program:
When
The program runs from noon to 4 PM EST, Saturday, August 9, and noon to 4 PM on Sunday, August 10.
Recorded
The Conference Program will be recorded and available until midnight on Sunday, August 17, 2025
Cost
Only $150 for the webinar and recording for NAJA members
$200 for the webinar and recording for NON-members
Tap Here to REGISTER NOW
Saturday, August 9, 2025
Noon: Duncan Parker, FGA, Presenting:
Jewels Before the End of a Fixed Gold Price: The 1960s
1 PM: Deborah Finleon, GIA GG and Sherlene Bradbury, GIA GG, Presenting:
Cash and Contracts
2 PM: Michael Johnson, GIA GG, Presenting:
Swiss Luxury Watches, Understanding the History, Assessing the Value
3 PM: Al Gilbertson, GIA GG, Presenting:
Jewelry Forensics
Sunday, August 10, 2025
Noon: Scott Papper, GIA GG, Presenting:
Trademark Identification for Jewelry Appraisers
1 PM: Linda Koslof-Turner, GIA GG
What it Took to Write this Book ‘Women of Jewelry’ Stories from the Author
2 PM: Lauren Abramovitz, GIA GG Presenting:
Peeking into the Blue Box
3 PM: Gary Roskin, FGA, Presenting:
Appraising, Your Valuable Time & Expertise: How to Improve your Worth by Sharing Your Knowledge
Tap Here for more details and to Register!
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Ethical Gem Fair - Seattle
A Trade Only Event
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The Ethical Gem Suppliers collective is excited to announce its first-ever Ethical Gem Fair Seattle, taking place July 26th and 27th, 2025, open 10AM-5PM each day.
Held at a scenic waterfront venue near downtown Seattle, this exclusive trade-only event offers a rare opportunity to explore a diverse range of responsibly sourced gemstones from around the world.
Participating suppliers at this event include: ANZA Gems
Agere Treasures
Capricorn Gems
Columbia Gem House
Nature’s Geometry
Perpetuum Jewels
and Virtu Gems.
Each supplier will showcase gemstones with a transparent sourcing journey, highlighting ethical practices that support artisanal miners, their communities, and the skilled hands of faceters worldwide—illuminating every step of the supply chain.
Event Highlights:
•
Shop the Ethical Gem Fair [Saturday and Sunday, July 26th and 27th | 10:00 AM–5:00 PM]: explore the collection of responsibly sourced gemstones curated just for this event.
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Evening Social with the Seattle Jewelry Community [Saturday | 5:30–7:30 PM]: Mingle over food and drinks with fellow jewelers, suppliers, and community members. *Separate registration required.
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Lox & Rocks Educational Discussions [Sunday | 10:00–11:00 AM]: Join for coffee, bagels, and a casual educational discussion with supplier principals about responsible sourcing, supply chain transparency, and evolving practices in the gem trade.
•
Fundraising Gemstone Raffle Drawing [Sunday | 4:00 PM]: Tickets will be available for a chance to win gemstones donated by each supplier, with all proceeds benefiting the Seattle Jewelry Community.
This event is to the trade only,
and you must be pre-registered to attend.
Tap Here for more details and registration!
| | Let Us Help You Get Noticed! | | |
Do you know why we buy more Lindt chocolates during the holidays than almost any other time of the year?
Because they advertise!
We make advertising easy (and very affordable) - just click the Ad package you like, and then send us your artwork. It just that simple - like eating chocolates!
Tap the box here to start advertising before your next showing!
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Lightning Ridge, Australia
– July 23-26, 2025
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64th Annual ACE©It VIRTUAL Education Conference
– August 9 - 10, 2025
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SiJE Singapore International Jewelry Expo 2025
International Jewelry, Gems & Luxury Timepieces Exhibition
Singapore
– July 10 - 13, 2025
August
The 22nd annual Australian Opal Exhibition
Trade Only
Southport, Queensland, Australia
– August 6-7, 2025
Time & Shine Jewellery Trade Show
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
– August 17 and 18, 2025
The International Jewellery & Watch Fairs
Sydney, Australia
– August 23-25, 2025
Japan Jewellery Fair – Informa Markets
Tokyo, Japan
– August 27-29, 2025
The Jewellery Show
Olympia, London, UK
– August 31-September 1, 2025
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The Rare Gem
Bear Essentials
The Arkenstone
HardRock Summit
ValentineGarnets.com
GIA - Gemological Institute of America
The Canadian Gemmological Association
ASA - the American Society of Appraisers
AGTA - the American Gem Trade Association
AGA - the Accredited Gemologists Association
Gem-A - Gemmological Association of Great Britain
NAJA - the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers
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What do we have for you this week?
Plenty!
We’re taking a look at GIA-graded diamonds from Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction, a firm decision from the French government rejecting the use of “lab grown” to describe synthetic diamonds, and a “new” find of vivid red garnets from Vietnam.
Plus, all sorts of industry happenings you won’t want to miss. Take your time browsing—and let us know what you think!
Our email address is Gary@RoskinGemNews.com
- or you can text us at +1-610-269-0121 (good for WhatsApp too!)
That's all for now from here!
Keep in touch. We’d love to hear where you’ve been and what gems you’ve discovered!
As always, we will continue to post features on the website, so feel free to log on to the Roskin Gem News Magazine any time: www.RoskinGemNewsReport.com
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Want to contribute?
If you would like to contribute, or you have read something somewhere that you feel would be perfect to share with the community, then please feel free to contact me directly at Gary@RoskinGemNews.com
I will see you again SOON!
Stay safe and stay healthy!
Gary Roskin
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