A Note From The Founders...

While we don't consider ourselves fashionistas, we are interested in fashion trends and designers, especially those from previous decades!

At Perfume Passage, the connection between fashion and our perfume collection is apparent in the displays throughout the galleries. They're intertwined, tell captivating stories and reflect personal styles.

So for this issue, we're going to explore the fascinating relationship between the perfume and fashion industries, sharing some of our favorite designers and the signature scents they created!

Sincerely,

Jeffrey and Rusty,

Co-founders

Perfume is the invisible, unforgettable, fashionable accessory that announces your arrival and prolongs your departure.

Coco Chanel

Just like with fashion, the fragrances we wear can express our identity, often reflecting our personality and our mood of the day. We've been collecting and wearing fragrances since our college days, and we love experimenting with a variety of scents, depending on whether we're at work, on vacation or attending events.

Jeffrey explained that "while there’s no dress code at my office, I usually wear dress pants and a dress shirt. So during the workweek, my go-to fragrances are usually L'Anarchiste by Caron and Velvet Tonka by BDK. But on the weekends or when it’s time to socialize, I love to embrace something a bit more adventurous, like Haute Luxe by Roja Dove."

Rusty shared that one of his current favorite scents is the recently reinvented Dior Homme Parfum by Francis Kurkdjian. The Dior website describes it as a "men's fragrance crafted around a dual iris note, both tender and intense. It's the olfactory interpretation of modern masculinity, a balance between strength and softness."

"Coincidentally, my all-time favorite is the original Le Male, by Jean Paul Gaultier, which came out in 1995, another fragrance created by Francois Kurkdjian, so it totally makes sense why I love both!

"When I'm working at Perfume Passage and guiding visitors on tours, I'm often asked about the scent I'm wearing, he continued. I always say that I pick a fragrance that makes me feel good based on what I'm experiencing at that moment in my life. It's the same when we travel; I bring along the scents that will feel good during our adventures! And I never wear anything on the trip that I've purchased on the trip."

Jeffrey, on the other hand, has a unique tradition of buying a fragrance from whatever country they're visiting and wearing it throughout the trip.

"The scent I wear while on vacation instantly connects me to the memories and experiences from that trip every time I catch a whiff of it. I used to wonder how a fragrance could hold such power, and that's sparked my passion for learning about the rich history of perfumes and the artistry of the beautiful bottles and packaging," Jeffrey shared.

When you think of vintage designers who made a splash in the world of perfume, three names always seem to come to mind: Elsa Schiaparelli, Christian Dior and Coco Chanel. Each of these fabulous icons understood that fragrance is not just a scent—it's a powerful extension of their brand identity. Over the years, they introduced fragrances and beautiful bottles that captured their unique fashion aesthetics, leaving a mark on both the fashion and perfume industries.

Elsa Schiaparelli

Christian Dior

Coco Chanel

At Perfume Passage, we are thrilled to showcase an array of perfume bottles created by Schiaparelli, Chanel and Dior and we’ve featured our treasures in past publications. The April 2024 PassageWAY eNews, introduced the magical world of Schiaparelli perfumes and fashions. Plus, our 2022 Journal, which celebrated the iconic fashion illustrator Rene Gruau, highlighted his incredible lifelong connection with Christian Dior. And let’s not forget Chanel—we’ve shared her remarkable history and fragrances in the same Journal.

And when mentioning these three designers, perfume collectors might say they know them better for their fragrances than for their apparel. And if you ask a vintage clothing collector, they might be surprised to realize that their beloved designer even produced perfumes!

Of course there are countless other vintage fashion designers who have produced some of our most treasured perfumes. So we're excited to shine a spotlight on several of our favorite extraordinary designers and their captivating scents that are part of the Perfume Passage collection!

The name Arpege was inspired by the sound of her daughter practicing on the piano as the word Arpege is French for arpeggio, a chord that is played one note at a time. Her Lanvin emblem was known as “The woman and the child.”

She was also the first to develop a made-to-measure men’s collection in 1926. At that time the company employed nearly 1,200 employees and had several stores throughout the world.

With a passion for art, Lanvin collected masterpieces by renowned artists like Renoir, Degas and Redon, drawing inspiration from their vibrant colors for her perfume bottle designs. The iconic Lanvin blue, paired with a dash of silver, echoes the elegance of the deco movement that she admired.

As a former milliner, Lanvin understood that perfume was an essential accessory item on a woman’s vanity. Before Arpege, she made her mark in the US with her first successful fragrance, My Sin, formulated by the talented Maria Zede in 1925.

In 1933, Lanvin launched the first “eau mixte” fragrance called L’eau de Lanvin, often characterized as a casual everyday unisex scent. The company continued developing perfumes until her death in 1946 at the age of 79.

Lanvin’s daughter became president of the company and continued to launch fashion collections and perfumes until 1950. The brand changed hands several times over the years while continuing to produce fragrances. Lanvin is the third oldest French fashion house still in operation today.

This rare 10" x 5-1/2" chalkware display piece was made by the Petitto Studio in Hudson, Massachusetts. The image is of the original logo of Lanvin and her daughter holding hands. It was purchased at an auction from a group of pharmacies that closed in the 1970s.

L'Homme by Lanvin is a wonderful men's fragrance and was released in 1997. It was created by perfumer Alberto Morillas and is considered a floral woody musk scent. This is another item in Jeffrey's fragrance selection for work.

Lanvin's Figaro is an aromatic green fragrance for men, launched in 1964.

After serving in WWI, he joined his father's dressmaking business in 1918. He married Anne-Marie Audoy in 1919, and their daughter, Nicole, was born in 1920. That same year, the name of the dressmaking shop was changed to Lelong & Fried (the name of his partner).

The following year, 1921, marked the official establishment of Lucien Lelong as a fashion house and his collections from 1921 to 1923 received positive responses from the media and his clientele.

Lelong viewed fragrance as an integral aspect of a woman's ensemble, leading him to develop the Société des Parfums Lucien Lelong in 1924. He began creating luxury perfumes, drawing inspiration from his fashion designs.

In 1926, he debuted his ABC trio of perfumes, presented in striking skyscraper bottles designed by René Lalique. The next year, he introduced three additional fragrances: Jasmine, J and N. By 1928, he had expanded his perfume line with facilities in Chicago.

The "Skyscraper" perfume bottle, designed by René Lalique in 1929, is a frosted and black enameled scent bottle with a metallic presentation box, often referred to as "Parfum A." Definitely on the wish list!

Penthouse Parfums Includes four bottles of different fragrances, launched in 1934.

A 1943 advertisement (left) featured four Lucien Lelong fragrances -- Indiscret, Tailspin, Balalaika and Sirocco. Desperado, a men's cologne, was introduced in 1969.

They made a variety of powder compacts including enameled ones in several different colors with the LL logo.

They were also known for their now-very collectible lipsticks, especially those with the faux fur!

Later in her career she expanded her fashion line to include dresses, perfume and jewelry.

In 1931, Dache married French-born Jean Despres who was an executive at Coty, Inc. They were married for 53 years. Dache retired in 1968 and at that time sold her last thirty hats to actress Loretta Young. She died in 1989 at the age of 97.

Jean Despres founded the Fragrance Foundation in New York for the perfume industry, serving as its president. When he retired he appointed Annette Greene to the position. He died in 1988.

Of the many hats and headdresses Dache created, these may be the most recognizable! She created these for actress Carmen Miranda when she starred in the 1941 film "That Night In Rio."

Many Dache collectors search for the powder boxes. compacts and lipsticks with her eye-catching cupid design, as they're the perfect go-with items for perfume and hat displays!

After the war, he relaunched his brand with fresh and exciting designs that reflected his travels through the Balkans and the East.

Patou had a vision to liberate women from the constraints of restrictive fashion. He introduced dresses without corsets, shorter skirts and launched a sports wear line that embraced freedom and comfort. His approach set him apart from his rivals, including Jeanne Lanvin and Coco Chanel, both considered his competitors.

Patou drew inspiration from tennis sensation Suzanne Lenglen, creating long dresses with daring low backs during a time when boyish silhouettes were all the rage. Between 1919 and 1924 his successful designs saw a surge in profits for his fashion house and iconic celebrities including Louise Brooks, Josephine Baker and Mistinguett wore his creations.

He was also known to push fashion boundaries by raising hemlines, introducing pleated skirts and creating fashions with bold geometric patterns. He also popularized monogramming, including his JP initials on many of his fashions.

Patou was considered the quintessential dandy of the roaring twenties, flaunting his sense of style while sporting a cigarette between his fingertips. The US press called him "the most elegant man in Europe," and he loved glamourous parties, race cars and gambling!

In 1958, the legendary Karl Lagerfeld took the helm as head designer, introducing long, flowing dresses inspired by the elegance of the 1930s. Michel Goma stepped in next, leading the fashion house from 1963 to 1974, before 20-year old Jean Paul Gaultier made his mark with the company.

The Jean Patou brand was acquired by the LVMH group in 2018.

Amour Amour is a floral fragrance for women, launched in 1925. The nose behind this fragrance was Henri Almeras. Top notes are strawberry, neroli, bergamot and lemon; middle notes are rose, carnation, lilac, ylang-ylang, lily, jasmine, orris root and narcissus; base notes are civet, honey, vetiver, heliotrope and musk.

Voyageur Eau de Toilette Pour Homme was presented in a metal case replica of the steamship Normandie, launched in 1995. The nose behind the fragrance is Jean Kerleo and notes include orange, grapefruit, sage, lavender, cedar and sandalwood.

This rare powder compact probably dates from the 1930s-1940s. It's silverplate with a white enamel lid. The inside has a mirror and includes a signed puff.

1000 is a Chypre floral fragrance for women, launched in 1972. The nose behind this fragrance is Jean Kerleo. Top notes include Bulgarian rose, tarragon, coriander, bergamot, jasmine, geranium, Iris, violet, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, musk and amber.

Patou For Ever is a Chypre fruity fragrance for women, launched in 1998. The nose behind this fragrance is also Jean Kerleo. Notes include pineapple, raspberry melon, jasmine, rose, lily-of-the-valley, amber and vanilla.

His motto, according to a 1948 article, was "youth, simplicity and personality," and these characteristics were prominent in his fashions and with his collaborations in developing his perfumes.

He became well-known in the 1920s with his tailored suits and full skirt fashions. Actresses Carole Lombard, Marlene Dietrich and Mae West were early customers. Rochas designed forward-thinking fashions that also celebrated the traditional feminine silhouettes and his clothing were often adorned with lace.

The company expanded and began to develop fragrances, starting with a trio of perfumes, Avenue Matignon, Air Jeune and Audace in 1934. During WWII the perfumes were taken off the market and following the war, Rochas most famous fragrance, Femme was launched and remains a best seller today. It's a chypre fragrance developed by Edmond Roudnitska, and the original bottle resembled a woman's curves.

Rochas also marketed lipsticks and stockings as companion accessories to Femme, one of the first designers to do so.

Rochas died in 1955, and his wife Helene took over his perfume company. They released the scent Madame Rochas in 1960, in a Baccarat bottle that replicated an 18th century bottle, signed by Madam Rochas and designed by Rene Lalique.

The company was sold in 1971 and changed hands several times before Proctor and Gamble acquired it in 2003 and re-launched the fashion division. Fragrances still remain the most important product for the company and Jean-Michel Duriez was the in-house perfumer from 2008-2016, before he launched his own perfume house.

This 1948 Moustache travel set includes bottles of eau de toilette, after shave lotion and eau de cologne. The aromatic fougere scent for men was ceated by Edmond Roudnitska and Theresa Roudnitska. Notes include lemon, bergamot, lavender, basil, honey, carnation, rose, jasmine, musk, cedar, amber and vanilla.

Macassar Pour Homme Eau de Toilette is a fragrance for men, released in 1980. It was created by Nicolas Mamounas and Roger Pellegrino. Notes include pine tree needles, bergamot, patchouli, carnation, jasmine, vetiver, cedar, oakmoss, leather, musk, amber and coconut.

Gaultier never received formal training as a designer and at a young age sent fashion sketches to other stylists. This led to employment with Pierre Cardin, Jacques Esterel and Jean Patou in his early career.

Gaultier was also known for his lingerie-inspired designs and for pushing gender norms. He designed costumes for many films, theater shows and concert tours. He became a world-wide sensation after dressing singer Madonna for her 1990 Blond Ambition World Tour.

He believed that fragrance “will always be the first thing our skin puts on.” When Classique was launched in 1993 with the curvaceous corseted-shaped bottle, it became an instant success. It embodied the designer’s vision of femininity as both strong and generous.

In 1998, Jean Paul Gaultier’s company had $13.2 million in sales and by 2008, they opened 40 Jean Paul Gaultier stores worldwide. He retired in 2020 following his last Paris couture fashion show.

A favorite of Perfume Passage is the original Jean-Paul Gaultier Le Male from the 1990s in the green striped bottle (left).

Gaultier's Elixir (above) is a standout from their Le Male collection, released in the mid-1990s.

• The sense of smell is the first of all our senses to develop.

• Vanilla is a universally popular scent that appeals to everyone, regardless of gender. It's considered the most attractive scent in the world as there's something seductive and playful about the aroma.

• In the US, approximately 41% of women use perfume on a regular basis, compared to 39% of men.

• Rubbing your wrists after applying perfume can actually cause the top notes to fade away quickly.

• In ancient Egypt, Nefertum was the god of perfume and wore a headdress made of lilies.

Perfume Passage is open for tours!! Please visit our perfumepassage.org website for tour schedules for the next few months! And if you'd like to bring a group or your organization for a tour, please contact us for available dates.

Upcoming Tour Dates: Additional dates will be added soon.

Our mission is to preserve the history, beauty and artistry of perfume bottles, compacts, ephemera and related vanity items. Through education, outreach, and awareness of the Perfume Passage collection and library, our goal is to inspire art lovers, collectors, arts and curators to keep this history alive. 

Perfume Passage Foundation perfumepassage.org