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Saturday  10am-6pm  

Sunday  Noon - 5pm  


9107 Mendenhall Mall Rd. #301 



The winner for our $25 Nugget Alaskan Outfitter Gift Certificate in January 2016 is Dan Coleman. Congratulations Dan! Don't forget to drop by and get your gift certificates - just ask for them at the front counter.
October winner - Evan Rowan.

Winners are selected from those of you who receive and open our monthly e-newsletter. It doesn't matter when or how you signed up for our e-mail club - if you are on our email list you are a potential winner each month. Thank you for joining the club!

 12 Step tuning for Skis or Snowboard
Do you feel like you're lagging behind all of your friends as you chase each other down the mountain? The solution could be something as simple as waxing your skis... however, if your skis haven't been tuned in a while, all the wax in the world won't make much difference. If your bases are gouged and your edges are dull, they should get a professional tuning.
When you ski over the surface of the snow, the pressure and temperature of your skis melt the snow, creating a fine film of water. Depending on the temperature, humidity and age of the snow, this film of water can either make you ski faster or slower. The most common method of applying wax is to use an iron. Tuning your skis helps to improve their performance, giving you more enjoyment when practicing your sport. Simple steps to hot waxing Skis and Snowboards
  1. Clamp ski/board to table.
  2. Brush from tip to tail 3-4 times then repeat with nylon brush to remove dirt and old wax. 
  3. Place masking tape along both side of the board or ski to keep bindings from getting wax in them. 
  4. Set wax iron to melting point of wax, if it starts to smoke the temp is too high, lower by 5 degrees. 
  5. Hold wax against iron to develop a bead and start dripping wax onto ski/board in a pattern that allows for full coverage (i.e. 3 stripes down length or zig-zag pattern from tip to tail).
  6. Run iron smoothly along the whole ski to spread wax evenly, do this 3-4 times.
  7. While the ski/board is still warm use a scrapper to remove the wax. If there is dirt trapped in the ski it will be pulled out with the wax. Repeat steps 2-8 until the wax comes off with no show of dirt.
  8. Recondition your skis by applying a Molybdenum wax. This layer increases your skis abrasion-resistance and helps to renew graphite bases.
  9. Remove all of the wax from the steel sides and let the ski sit for about 8 hours in a warm room. Setting the ski outside to cure faster will close the ski's pores too fast, not allowing the wax to soak in enough.
  10. The next layer of wax should match your current skiing conditions and snow temperatures.
  11. Run a rotor cork or hand cork over the ski/board to smooth and set and smooth the finish coat.
  12. Apply Express or Jet Stream wax on the slope for fast touch ups. Apply from tail to tip for more consistency and durability. These waxes cover a large temperature range (0-30 degrees) so they are great in all conditions.
Picking the right wax 
Pink (Universal Low Floro): -22 to 32 ˚
  •  Perfect for training or free-skiing when you want more zip than a standard hydrocarbon wax.
Green (Cold Snow): -22 to 14 ˚
  •  Hydrocarbon wax for training and travel in cold snow conditions
Orange (Warm Snow): 25 to 32 ˚ F
  •  Hydrocarbon wax for training and travel in warm snow conditions
White Universal (Changeable Conditions): -22 to 32 ˚
  •  Toko's All-In-One Universal Wax serves the needs of most skiers and snowboarders, and performs well in almost all snow conditions and temperatures. 
Molybdenum (Abrasion Resistance ): -22 to 32 ˚F
  • Use as a base coat, counteracts electrostatic effects that slow you in cold, dry snow and repels dirt in warm snow, increases abrasion-resistance and renews graphite bases.
Special snow conditions
  • Cold night and north wind: Expect low humidity and cold snow. Wax for colder than expected conditions
  • Overcast: The snow will be closer to the air temperature and more humid. Wax for warmer conditions with higher humidity add more structure. Fluoro waxes work well.
  • Race in the woods: The snow will stay cold and have sharper crystals, wax for colder conditions.
  • Wet new snow: Use Fluoro waxes, wax for warmer than expected temperatures, use lots of structure.
  • Fine dry new snow: Wax for colder than expected conditions and temperatures.
  • Low areas near open water: Colder and more humid than expected.
  • Old dirty snow: Use Fluoro waxes and add structure.
  • Cold race start below freezing and warming conditions above freezing: Do not be fooled at the start, here skis without structure will feel fast at the start and slow dramatically as the temperatures warm. Add structure here at the start and wax more for the finish temperature.

Nugget Alaskan Outfitter | 907-789-0956 | |
9107 Mendenhall Mall Rd Ste 301
Juneau, AK 99801

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