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Hello G Street,

Garments cut on the bias drape better than garments cut on the grain. They flow more fluidly and hang on the body more naturally, which is why some dresses and skirts require to be cut on the bias.

But what does bias mean? Woven fabric cut at a 45-degree angle from the grainline or selvedges gives you a true bias.

Imagine the horizontal and vertical weaves (warp and wefts) going over and under one another at a right angle. Then, rotate it 45 degrees. With the fabric cut in at this angle, it allows the woven fabric to stretch, giving it more drape and flexibility.

But how do you sew with pattern pieces cut on the bias?

Here are five tips!

1- Staystitch

Staystitching is stitching around a single layer of fabric 1/4” to 3/8” away from the raw edges and within your pattern’s required seam allowance width. This prevents your fabric piece from stretching and fraying as you sew your two pieces together.

If you have mirroring pieces (cut on fold), for example, two center front bodices. Start your stitch from the same position. Staystitch from the top of the shoulder towards the center front. Then repeat for the opposite piece, sewing towards the same direction. If sewing a staystitch causes your fabric to stretch slightly, at least they are symmetrical!

2- Use More Pins

Even if you already use more (or any) pins, make sure you pin as much as you can to hold your layers together. Start by matching up the notches and ends, then ease the rest of the seams to fit.

3- Handle With Care

Try to limit handling your fabric pieces before sewing. Constant shifting and handling may stretch and warp your bias edges.

When you’re ready to sew, make sure your pieces are not hanging off the sewing machine bed or table since gravity can also cause your pieces to stretch! With that said, gravity can also help, but in a different way...

4- Let Gravity Do The Work

Before you sew your hem, allow your (nearly) finished garment to hang on a dress form or hanger for at least 24 hours. The garment's weight will allow it to fall as it pleases and give you the best drape. The warps and wefts will relax and rest on one another to give you that classic flowy, biased drape.

This is particularly important for skirts, especially if it’s a shorter length. Having your skirt drape overnight will allow your skirt to stretch and fall naturally. Any jagged cut edges will come to light, and you can make any last-minute corrections before hemming and completing your skirt.

5- Steam and Press

After sewing your bias seams, you may notice some rippling, which can easily be let out by careful steaming and pressing. If your seam is on a curve, best use a pressing ham to mold your curved areas.

Make sure your iron settings are appropriate for the fabric you are using and remember it’s called pressing, not gliding. Gliding your iron back and forth over the fabric will cause it to stretch. So, press your iron down, lift and press down on another area.

It may seem like extra work but skip those steps, and you may end up taking more time fixing issues. So, take your time, and enjoy the process!

Carla

Beginner's Sewing Course Instructor

Garment Sewing Class

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PDF pattern, written instructions included. Pattern sizes 0 to 16 are available.

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