Dear Sucheta,

Can you believe we are at the final inning of 2023 already? If you are planning any travels this month, please keep into account that airlines in the US are predicting their busiest holiday season EVER! This means there will be longer security lines, full flights, and the possibility of some delays. It can be frustrating for everyone, so be nice to your fellow passengers and crew. Be polite, smile, and spread the holiday cheer!

Speaking of holiday fun, did you know that Puerto Rico has the longest-running holiday season in the world? The Christmas season, or Navidad, lasts around 45 days, starting right after Thanksgiving Day in November, extending through mid-January, and culminating with the Fiestas de la Calle San Sebastián, also known as SanSe. When I was there last month, decorations and shopping had started already!

I also learned about some ways that the Boricua celebrate Christmas, which is very different from the mainland USA. On weekends, families and friends get together for a chinchorro, meaning driving along a scenic route, stopping for food and drinks along a number of places. They bring their own musical instruments and even hire a party bus! It feels like a more organized version of tailgating! One of the most famous chinchorro trail is the lechon (whole roasted pork) route through the Central Valley where dozens of local eateries offer traditional dishes such as morcilla (black pudding), pulled pork, roast chicken, rice, beans, plantains, and flan.

Pastel is a traditional dish made for Christmas and unless you have a dedicated Puerto Rican grandmother, you will not have a chance to try it. But at Mesa Redonda in San Juan, I took a Christmas cooking class to learn how to make some of the traditional dishes that chef Stephanie got from both her grandmas. We also made arroz con guandules, pernil and timbleque, and drank coquito – the Puerto Rican version of eggnog which is REALLY good!

In the small town of Cayey, away from the hustle and bustle of San Juan, I listened to Boricua style Christmas music. It sounded like happy carols with Spanish tunes and countryside lyrics. Imagine Christmas music you can salsa dance to! If you visit this area, make sure to stop by the House of the Music located off the main square which attracts musicians from all over the world.

Stay at the first culinary farm lodge in Puerto Rico, El Pretexto. This unpretentious family-run farm stay will offer you a glimpse of life in the countryside. You will wake up to scenic mountain scenery and the roosters call in Cayey, indulge in farm-to-table homestyle food, and spend the evening singing and dancing with the neighbors on the patio. It really felt like a more peaceful, green, and not touristy side of Puerto Rico that I didn’t even know existed.

So, if you feel like experiencing the holiday season in a different way, make sure to book a trip to Puerto Rico during this month. And if you feel low taking down the tree and decorations in January, you know they are still going to be up on the island!

Thank you for continuing to read my newsletters this year! If there’s anything I can do to help you plan your next trip, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me. In the meantime, let's continue to stay in touch through Facebook and Instagram.

I hope you have a very happy, fun, and relaxing holiday season whether you are staying home or venturing off across the world.

Best wishes,

Sucheta