July 19, 2021 | ISSUE 65
The Week at P2
For this week’s Formulation Friday video, our applications chemist, Michael Fuller, will present his formulation for a Hydrating Marshmallow Body Cream. 

Click the button below to view the video. Be on the lookout for new videos every Friday!
Clean & Transparent Beauty Products
Source: Realsimple.com “134 Beauty Trends Experts Predict will dominate 2021”
Cocoa Shea Dark Chocolate Lip Balm
Procedure
  1. Combine Phase A. Heat to 80°C mix until gum swells or gel forms. 
  2. In a separate beaker, combine Phase B and heat to 80°C and mix until melted. Once done, add Phase B into Phase A and mix or homogenize at homogeneous. 
  3. Once mixed, pour into lip balm components. 

Observation
A cocoa-colored stick lip balm that moisturizes the lip and leaves the lip hydrated and soft.
Source: P2 Science Applications Lab
The Relaunch
As previewed in the Scoop over the past two weeks, Kylie Cosmetics relaunched their brand on July 15th at Noon EST. The website and shop had a refreshed look, and they launched with a live event. 

But what about the products? Is there anything new, and how are they different? Here, in Kylie’s own words, is what she says about her Clean Philosophy:

“Because I care about what I put on my skin (and yours!), I’ve followed high standard guidelines to ensure that my Kylie Cosmetics and Kylie Skin brands are Clean and Vegan. This means my products have not been created with animal oils, parabens* and gluten*along with a long list of over 1,600 other potentially harmful and irritating ingredients** and have been formulated with ingredients carefully selected to provide the right benefits for your skin. My ingredient standards go above and beyond the cosmetic regulations of leading beauty markets so that you have the best.”

I was unable to find a list of the 1,600 banned ingredients. And I don’t know why certain words are bolded and asterisked. So, let’s look at some of the ingredients in the products. It appears that all ingredients are listed clearly on the site for each one. 

Here’s a partial listing for the famous Matte Liquid Lipstick: Isododecane, Mica, Octyldodecanol, Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Alcohol, Flavor (Aroma), Water (Aqua), Dicalcium Phosphate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

And for the Queen Drip Kylighter Illuminating Powder: Mica, Silica, Phenyl Trimethicone, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Peg-12 Dimethicone, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Gellan Gum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Calcium Chloride, Dicalcium Phosphate
 
Overall, there are plenty petrochemicals and silicones. I guess that should come as no surprise, should it? Although, to be honest, I thought that if something were vegan, there wouldn’t be any petrochemicals in it. However, in this context, it seems to mean no animal products.

At this point, it’s hard to assess the substance behind the hype—and you may reasonably question if that really matters. The brand is going global, and millions of consumers across the world will have to decide for themselves. 

Again, I ask you—other than tut-tutting and eye-rolling—what are you doing?
Source: Kylie Cosmetics
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