Q uickly: A sun-drenched, 100% Pinot Noir from Monterey that started life at $30 a bottle, now as low as $11.25! Meiomi beware!

I wish Meiomi tasted like Pinot Noir. I mean, it kind of tastes like Pinot Noir, but bigger, jammier, and richer... because, I suspect, it isn't 100% Pinot. And while I appreciate that many, many people like Meiomi, I have long been on the lookout for an alternative, a wine that preserves the things people like about Meiomi without cheating by blending in other grapes or leaving the wine sweet... and I finally have one. Allow me to introduce the 2014 Wente Riva Ranch Pinot Noir!

There's a longstanding taboo against blending Pinot Noir because of its ability to taste like the land around it; at the highest level, sommeliers can taste a series of Pinot from Burgundy blind and identify the individual vineyard plot in which each was grown. Blending in other grapes obscures that expressiveness, taking away what makes Pinot Noir unique. Meanwhile, in the long growing season of Wente's Arroyo Seco vineyard, fresh layers of concentrated red fruit is Pinot's flavor, simply as a result of copious sunshine and sea breezes rather than winemaker tricks... the difference is clear, honest, and surprisingly delicate.

The 2014 Wente Riva Ranch Pinot Noir pours a clear, medium ruby-red with hints of garnet in the reflection. The nose is clean and brightly intense, with notes of fresh red cherries, raspberries, and Luxardo. On the palate, the wine is dry and on the full side of medium-bodied, with fresh acidity and fine-grained tannin structuring the lush flavors of cherry preserves, mocha, and a touch of bay leaf throughout the long finish. Enjoy on its own or with soft cheeses and charcuterie, Peking duck, or this fabulous pan-roasted pork chop with citrus dressing. This wine is drinking beautifully now and will easily last another 3-5 years!