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A Day’s Walk Through Jerusalem
When my wife and I travel, we like to walk through a city; we like to get lost and then be found. So, on our recent trip to the Holy Land, we decided to break free from our pilgrim travel mates and disappear into the crowd.
As the tour bus stopped at the crest of the Mount of Olives, our Jewish-Mexican tour guide, Rafael, eyed us with concern. Seguros?” (“Are you sure?”) he asked. Seguros!” we answered. He let us off and the bus filled with our fellow pilgrims trundled off toward Masada. We were now alone, on our own, completely lost in Jerusalem.
First stop: Church of the Pater Noster. We linked up with a group of pilgrims led by two guitar-slinging Danish priests. We soon found ourselves crowded into a tight cavern, under the church. We all prayed the Our Father aloud in our various native tongues. We no longer felt so lost.
Down the hill, we found the Tombs of the Prophets. Jameel, the guide who had been doing this for 70 years, led us with a thin, dim candle through a labyrinth of caves, where he showed us where Old Testament prophets and their disciples rested.
Further downhill, we came to Dominus Flevit, where Jesus wept over Jerusalem. We sat in the chapel overlooking the massive Temple Mount in the near distance. At the bottom of the hill, we came to the Garden of Gethsemane and, a stone’s throw away, the Church of All Nations. In front of the altar is the rock where Jesus sweated blood while Peter, John, and James slept in the garden.
Crossing the Kidron Valley -- laden with graves that had been there since before Christ we entered the old city through The Lion’s Gate. Meandering westward, we walked the Via Dolorosa. Bronze plaques announced in Latin:
Here. Jesus was condemned.
Here. Jesus was scourged.
Here. Jesus was imprisoned.
Here. Jesus was crucified, laid out, entombed, and rose from the dead.
We continued through the bazaar, haggling for olive wood tchotchkes, and ended up at the western Jaffa Gate on our way back to the hotel. We got lost again. And again, even with my phone’s navigation app.
At one point, a young Jewish mother pushing a baby stroller pointed our way -- in perfect American English. We got lost again. I went into a coffee bar and asked for directions from the Yarmulked barista, who spoke no English. A young Muslim woman wearing a burka and with a beautiful smile, asked for my phone and tapped in our destination. We were on our way again.
We weaved our way through all sorts of neighborhoods. Muslim, Jewish, and Orthodox Jewish neighborhoods with bearded men in black suits, broad-brimmed hats, and tzitzis and long-skirted women with many children in tow. We felt safe but still lost. Then suddenly, we turned a corner and there it was: The Saint George Hotel. Our hotel. Lost, now found.
It was the adventure of a lifetime.
Gary N. Pontrelli
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