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1930, Thursday, July 6, 2023
We were up early and underway by 0645 this morning. Tazzarin was leaving Seldom Come By and headed 30 miles north and west, bound for Twillingate Harbour. It was a meandering route leading us through myriad islands and ledges as we began heading deeper into Notre Dame Bay. The latest Iceberg Analysis suggested that bergy water lay ahead. Mory and I were hoping for some good bergs. The day did not disappoint!
By 1300 we were in sight of six good sized bergs and altered course to view the bluest of the bunch. Blue icebergs tend to come from lower down in the depths of a glacier where the ice is so compressed that little air is left, leaving a purer, blue ice. Under sail in light air we sailed past the berg. I launched the drone to try an capture the moment.
It is amazing to think that these bergs have been forming from snowfall for 2.000 to 5,000 years as a slowly flowing glacier in Greenland. As the glacier flows to the sea, the leading edge periodically breaks off, or calves. Thus an Iceberg is born. It then takes one to two years for the berg to travel down here to Newfoundland.
After our close berg encounter we proceeded on through wispy fog towards Twillingate. About ten miles out we came upon more bergs. In places the sea was thick with dozens of white growlers - small bergs of 3 to 15 feet across. We weaved our way amongst them. We noted the gentle hissing and popping sounds as the growlers continuously melted, releasing compressed air that had been trapped in the ice for perhaps thousands of years.
Mory scooped small, floating chunks of the ice into a bucket and brought them aboard, loading our ice box with fresh ice. Icebergs are entirely fresh water from the glaciers, perfectly drinkable.
As we arrived off Twillingate, three monstrous bergs almost blocked our entrance to the harbor.
This evening we are tied to the busy fish plant wharf in Twillingate. Ashore we purchased Newfoundland Iceberg Rum. Back aboard we filled two glasses with thousand year old Iceberg ice and rum and toasted to a thrilling day amongst icebergs.
We have been only the first or second sailboat of the year in the past few ports we have visited. Indeed, the only other sailing vessel to call at Twillingate this year was the 102-year old schooner Bowdoin, originally buil in 1921 for Capt. Donald MacMillian for his arctic explorations. She is now owned by Maine Maritime Academy as a training vessel. She was here two days ago bound for Labrador. However, she has turned and headed back south towards St. John's. We will continue north.
See photos below. Here's to safe passages amongst icebergs!
Bill
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