|Plant of the Month|
Anemone 'September Charm'
Japanese anemones add graceful dimension to the late summer and fall garden with their profusion light and airy blooms. Andr� uses mass plantings in many of his berm gardens and they are truly spectacular!
|A beautiful blooming clump of Japanese anemones at Viette's|
Japanese anemones come in a wide range of colors from white to pink to deep rose and in single flowers or semi-double to double flowers. These hardy perennials produce a mass of silvery buds and colorful blooms which rise on well-branched stems above their attractive foliage.
Anemone 'Honorine Jobert'
Japanese anemones are wonderful in combination with Astilbe, hosta, and ferns in a woodland setting or mixed with the beautiful Heuchera cultivars in a lightly shaded border. They make a lovely transition plant where the shade meets the sun. Plant Japanese anemones around Dicentra spectabilis - as the Dicentra begins to go dormant in the heat of the summer and is cut back, the beautiful anemone foliage will fill the void.
unique. Leaves can range from silky smooth as in 'Royal Standard' and the plantaginea
cultivars to heavily corrugated as in 'Love Pat' or the sieboldiana
Japanese anemones are very easy to grow; all they require is bright or partial shade, and fertile, well-drained soil. They spread and naturalize nicely and reward you with charming flowers in late summer through fall.
Anemone 'Queen Charlotte'
Some great Anemone japonica cultivars you will find at Viette's this fall:
'Honorine Jobert' -
lovely single white blooms on 30" stems
3 1/2" perfectly formed double, deep pink blooms stems are almost twice the size of other Japanese anemones. 36" tall
'Party Dress' -
'Queen Charlotte' -
beautiful semi-double silvery pink blooms on 30" stems
'September Charm' - striking single blooms with rose-pink petals alternating with deeper pink petals to create a bi-color effect. 30" stems
|Fluffy seed heads of Japanese anemone make wonderful additions to fall arrangements|
Amaryllis Ferrari has stunning
deep red blooms!
Time to think about your Amaryllis again!
Are you planning to bring your amaryllis back into bloom for Christmas?
It will soon be time to get started! Here's what to do:
- Between September and October, dig your amaryllis bulb from the ground or bring the pot indoors.
- Cut the foliage back to 2" and, if it is not in a pot, carefully clean the dirt from the bulb. Let it dry.
- Place the pot or dry bulb in a cool place for 8 to 10 weeks (40-55�F is ideal). A refrigerator vegetable drawer is fine for the dry bulbs but do not store with apples!
- If your bulb is in a pot, do not water or feed it during this rest period.
- Once you see the tip of a new flower stalk emerging from the bulb, plant it in a growing container (either a vase with pebbles and water or pot with soil)
- Move it to a warm, sunny area indoors.
You'll soon have beautiful flowers to decorate your home for the holidays!
Listen to Andre on the radio every Saturday morning from 8-11 on
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|Tip of the Month|
The Importance of Fall Garden Maintenance
Late summer and early fall can be a time of transition in the garden. Many of the spring and summer perennials can begin to look a bit scraggly at this time of the year due to insect munching, disease, senescence, or simply from the natural weathering of the plants over the season. Many gardeners wonder what they can do to improve the look of their gardens. Is okay to cut some of these "battle scared" plants back? The answer in most cases is YES!
Rust on Hollyhocks
Fungal diseases on Perennials
|Powdery mildew on Phlox|
The other day we had a call from a gardener who had powdery mildew on her peonies and she was wondering what she could spray to control this. Sometimes towards the end of the season it's not worth the time or expense to spray for disease control on herbaceous perennials. It's often just better to cut them back to the ground. In general, we recommend that you wait until the peony foliage begins to yellow in early fall before it is cut back. However, when the foliage is covered with powdery mildew, it cannot photosynthesize efficiently so in this case, it is fine to cut it back even as early as mid August.
Powdery mildew on crape myrtle seed pods. These can be pruned off.
Diseases like powdery mildew often become more prevalent in the late summer when plants tend to be under more stress or are beginning to decline naturally. Plants that are in a weakened state are more likely to be attacked by fungal diseases and insects. We often receive calls in August and September about mildew on summer phlox and peonies, rust on hollyhocks and asters, and leaf spots on many other perennials. These perennials can be cut back severely if they become an eyesore in the garden. Even some trees and shrubs like crape myrtles can be pruned to remove just the diseased portions of the plant. This diseased foliage should always be bagged up and discarded in the trash; never put it in your compost pile because they often don't get hot enough to destroy the disease organisms.
Many perennials, including phlox and daylilies, will regrow fresh new foliage for the fall season.
Disease in the Vegetable Garden
This year powdery mildew and downy mildew seems to be exceptionally bad in the vegetable garden, especially in the cucurbits; squash, melons, and cucumbers. Affected plants decline rapidly and eventually die back completely. These vines should be removed from the garden, bagged up and disposed of. Remember to rotate your crops next year!
Disease Prevention in the Garden
If you have had disease problems in the flower garden or vegetable garden, one of the best ways to avoid these problems the following season is to carefully rake up and remove all dropped leaves, fruits, and cuttings from the garden in the fall. Fungal spores overwinter in this plant debris and will reinfect the plants when they emerge in the spring.This is especially important in the vegetable garden. Another way to reduce disease in the garden is to plant disease resistant varieties whenever possible. There are many new cultivars and hybrids of trees, shrubs, and perennials that show resistance to many of the common fungal diseases. Also be sure to rotate your crops in the vegetable garden if you are able.
Fallen fruit, leaves, and other plant debris can harbor overwintering fungal spores.
The Importance of Weed Control
Weeds can act as both reservoirs and alternate hosts for a wide variety of insect pests and diseases that plague our gardens. This is one of the major reasons that it is important to keep your gardens and also the adjacent areas as weed-free as possible. Weeds harbor insects like leafminers, whitefly, slugs, aphids, thrips, flea beetles, and stink bugs. Some of these insects transmit viruses to our plants in addition to being destructive to the plants directly.
Leafminer trails on velvetleaf
There are many common weeds that are particularly important as hosts for insect pests. Some of these include velvetleaf, lambsquarters, jimsonweed, purslane, pigweed, nightshade, and sunflower.
Whiteflies swarm on the underside of a velvetleaf leaf
Not only do weeds harbor insect pests, but they also compete with your good plants
for nutrients and water as well as for space in the garden.
Weeding may be one of the least desirable of all the garden chores but it is nevertheless very important. If you get the weeds while they are small and keep up with them over the season, the job will be easier and hopefully, you will be happily surprised at the reduction in the number of insect pests that call your garden home! This means you'll be spraying less pesticide in the garden - an added benefit!
August Lecture Series at Viette's!
Wednesday, September 5th at 1:30 pm
Saturday, September 8th at 1:30 pm
The Garden in Fall
Fall will soon be upon us. What can I do? Plant a new lawn or rejuvenate an old one. Our garden center manager, Gerry Coggin, will demonstrate and explain some products which will make it easier. Gerry will also discuss how to use cover crops in the vegetable garden and ideas for hardscaping to enhance the spring and summer gardens. He will include tips on planting for fall color, pruning, and getting your water gardens ready for the winter season. Free lecture
Saturday, September 15th at 1:30 pm
Let's Grow Daffodils
We are happy to welcome bulb expert Ross Hotchkiss back to the farm once again for this fun and informative seminar! Ross is currently a Director of the American Daffodil Society and has served two terms as President of the Virginia Daffodil Society. Ross will cover many topics relating to bulbs including a brief history of bulbs, how to choose the best bulbs, how to plant for optimal success, and how to lift and divide bulbs correctly. He will also provide tips on how to plant many bulbs quickly and effectively.
After his lecture, Ross will have drawings for two boxwoods which are direct descendants of the original stock from Mt. Vernon and also for some hard-to-find daffodils! Free lecture
Saturday, September 22nd at 1:30 pm
Techniques of Plant Propagation
A wonderful fall hands-on workshop! Plant propagation is an exciting, self-satisfying, and money saving activity! Learn how to landscape your property using your own plants. Mark will teach you the best methods for many different plants including techniques of dividing, taking cuttings, layering, and seeding. Take home loads of plant divisions! A propagating demonstration tour is included.
Please pre-register by calling 800-575-5538;
$30 fee, two for $50
|Did You Know?|
NOW is the Time to Control Winter Lawn Weeds!
Are weeds taking over your lawn?
|Chickweed forms dense mats |
in the lawn
For cool-season turfgrasses, September
is a perfect time to apply pre-emergence herbicides to control annual bluegrass (Poa annua
) and other winter annual weeds such as chickweed, shepherds purse, henbit, purple dead nettle, speedwell, and geranium. Pre-emergence herbicides to control winter annuals must be put down in late summer or fall before the seed germinates.
However, keep in mind
that pre-emergence herbicides will also prevent the germination of grass seed, so follow the label directions
and do not apply near newly seeded patches of turf.
Dandelions can be tough to
control in the lawn.
Since many broadleaf weeds, such as dandelion, various clovers, and plantain, show a new "burst" of growth in the fall, this is a great time to "zap" them with a post-emergent broadleaf herbicide. In the fall, perennials (including perennial weeds) begin to prepare for winter by moving nutrients and stored starches from their leaves into their roots. Spraying systemic herbicides at this time means that these chemicals also get transported down to the roots more effectively! Since the grass is still actively growing, it will quickly fill in the bare spots.
The Viettes recommend the following for broadleaf lawn weed control:
- Bonide Weed Beater and Weed Beater Ultra
- Bonide Weed Beater Complete (also contains a pre-emergence weed killer)
- Bayer Advanced Weed Killer for Lawns
- Bayer Advanced Season Long Weed Killer for Lawns (also contains a pre-emergence weed killer)
- Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max plus Crabgrass Control
|On the Viette's Views Gardening Blog|
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|Andre's Next AAA Trip|
February 18 - March 1st, 2013
11-Day Southern Caribbean Cruise
View from the Viette home
in St. Thomas.
Mark your calendar to join Andre and Claire Viette on Holland America's Noordam for an 11-day Southern Caribbean Cruise.
Explore the unspoiled natural beauty and tropical beaches of the Caribbean. Water sports enthusiasts can enjoy diving around colorful reefs, snorkeling in crystalline waters, or sailing on a catamaran. If shopping is your sport, you'll find plenty of places to splurge on duty-free treasures.
You'll visit 7 beautiful islands of the Caribbean and have the opportunity to enjoy private shore excursions including the fabulous 5 acre hilltop home and gardens of the Viettes.
Hurry! Time is running out to sign-up for this exciting trip. Beat the winter blues in the sunny Caribbean!
Click for more information