A Note From The Founders... | | |
One of our early trips to Europe together was a surprise family holiday to celebrate Jeffrey's parents' 50th wedding anniversary, nearly 20 years ago! We began our adventure in Vienna and went on to explore Lake Como, Milan, Florence and Rome, with several stops along the way.
The Sanfilippos made their journey from Sicily to the US in 1910, and the family's connection to our roots has always been strong. Naturally, Italy has become a must-visit destination whenever we travel to Europe!
Our perfume interest has led us to discover the rich history of Italian fragrances and their manufacturing, allowing us another way to connect to family.
In this issue, we're excited to share some of our favorite Italian perfume bottles and vanity items that are on display at Perfume Passage!
Sincerely,
Jeffrey and Rusty, Co-founders
| | An early 1900s postcard showing a cupid using an atomizer perfume! Italian artist Achille Lucien Mauzan was known for his Art Deco designs, creating over 2,000 posters and over 1,000 postcard images. | | |
Collectors have a passion for seeking out perfume bottles, compacts and vanity items from every corner of the globe, often honing in on treasures from a specific city or country of origin. It's often the thrill of the chase that leads to our experiences and research, as we learn about the items that pique our curiosity.
“During my junior year of college, I took a semester to study abroad in Madrid, Spain. I was shopping in a department store getting school supplies and wandered to the fragrance department and found a Spanish cologne I liked called “Campos de Ibiza.” I wore the fragrance the whole time I was in Spain,” said Jeffrey. “When I returned home I packed the bottle away in a box, only to discover it three years later when I was moving. The moment I smelled the cologne, every memory of my time and friendships in Spain came flooding back to me. I wondered how a fragrance could do that, so I began to learn about the history of fragrance."
"This was my start of collecting fragrances from European countries and when Rusty caught the collecting bug, our interests quickly expanded, Jeffrey admitted. And because of my family's Italian roots, we found ourselves gravitating to Italian perfumes and learning their history."
| | |
Often when collectors research perfume, they recognize the rich history of Grasse, located in the south of France, which has long been celebrated as a premier perfume capital. The story begins with Catherine de Medici, an Italian who became queen of France after marrying Henry II in 1533. She brought along her personal perfumer, Rene le Florentin, to the French court and introduced the fashion of perfumed gloves, scented with musk, civet or ambergris.
Perfumed gloves from the 16th century, such as these from the collection at New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art, are on the search list for Perfume Passage!
| | | |
In an effort to expand their perfume industry, Grasse encouraged local perfumers to grow fragrant flowers and herbs for their scent production. By the late 1700s, the growing expertise in perfumery led perfumers and chemists to shift from producing leather to designing elegant perfume bottles filled with scents.
Interestingly, historians highlight Italy as the birthplace of perfumery, with Venice standing as its hub for centuries. Italian perfumers were experimenting with new techniques, and a breakthrough moment came in 1666 when Giovanni Paolo Feminis discovered essential oils like rosemary, lemon and lavender, leading to the invention of Aqua Mirabilis, or "wonderful water." This aromatic concoction served as a medicinal product as well as a light perfume, evolving into what we now know as Eau de Cologne.
Today, Eau de Cologne remains a cherished staple, and Italy continues to be known for its stunning bottle designs, raw materials and unique niche fragrances.
| | Our interest in Italian perfumery grew over the years, especially after we discovered the wonderful Museo del Profumo (Perfume Museum) in Milan. A large collection of perfumes and related vanity items are on display from the late 1800s to the present day, along with exhibits showcasing notable Italian perfume houses, along with displays documenting the history of perfumes. | | Co-founders Giorgio Dalla Villa and Daniela Candio opened the museum in 2004. They began publishing the magazine Profumeria da Collezione in 1999, highlighting the history of perfume bottles and related vanity items. Perfume Passage has all 125 issues of the publication in our library! | | | The Italian perfume bottle and vanity collection at Perfume Passage includes a variety of bottles from several different companies. And, of course we have our favorite manufacturers and bottles! | | |
One of the oldest pharmacies and perfumeries in the world, Santa Maria Novella, was established in Florence in 1612. They continue to produce perfumes today, and many are inspired by the original notes!
While Perfume Passage doesn't have 400-year-old bottles from the company, we do have several examples that they've produced over the years (right).
Colonia Russa by Santa Maria Novella is an aromatic Fougere fragrance for men, launched in 1913. Notes include rose, bergamot, lemon, lavender, clove, musk and rosemary.
| | | Here are photos of the interior of Santa Maria Novella from a recent visit. | | |
The Bertelli perfume house was founded in Milan, Italy, by Mario Bertelli in 1898. While the company originally focused on pharmaceuticals, it later expanded into perfumes and cosmetics, assisted by Archille and Vittorio Bertelli.
The Bertelli company initiated successful innovative marketing strategies, including associating their perfumes with film actresses and promoting their scents within movie theaters, creating a multisensory experience for audiences. This novel approach, along with their popular products, established Bertelli as a major force in the Italian cosmetics industry through the mid-1960s.
| | |
Bertelli's Asso di Cuori Perfume, in two sizes (above left). The bottles have round red screw on caps with an ace of hearts playing card on the front, dates to late 1930s.
Bertelli's Asso di Cuori Mandarino (Ace of Hearts) rouge box (above right) is heart-shaped with a dog image on the lid. The inside has a flat puff along with the original orange-colored makeup! It dates from the mid-1930s.
| | This wonderful paper fan-shaped Bertelli calendar from 1904 promotes several of their perfumes, including Profumeria Venus, Crisantemum Fragrans, Violetta Mammola, Violetta Nivea and Trifoglio Soave. | | An advertisement concept for Bertelli perfume and powder by Montalbetti, 1930 | | Linetti is a historic Italian brand known for its perfumes and cosmetics, particularly its pomades, founded by Guglielmo Linetti in 1925 in Venice. Their popular perfumes included Rugiada di Bosco, Lavanda Concentrata and Notte di Venezia (Venetian Night), which was presented in a gondola-shaped bottle (below). The boat is glazed ceramic and the glass bottle forms a passenger cabin with a curtained window! It dates from 1948. | | A pair of Notte di Venezia presentations. The porcelain figurines were manufactured by Ker Artis, Padova exclusively for Linetti Profumi. | | |
This Linetti kerosene lamp perfume
measures 6-1/4" tall and came in a blue box with ladies on the lid. It was a fragrance for women, launched in 1930. The porcelain bottle is marked Ker Artis on the bottom.
| | Rugiada di Bosco Colonia was a fragrance for women, launched in 1930. The label on the green glass bottle has an image of a green forest. | | Linetti produced several different dagger design perfume bottles. This 3-1/4" bottle (above) dates from the 1940s and originally held their Notte di Venezia fragrance. | | Souvenir of Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter bottles from Museo del Profumo, Milan | | |
Gi.vi.emme, Gi. Vi. Emme, Giviemme and GVM - all variations of the same company's name.
However we see it spelled, this iconic Milan-based perfume company is a favorite at Perfume Passage!
| | | |
Giuseppe Visconti di Modrone was born in 1879, and in 1900 married Carla Erba, the daughter of the pharmaceutical and essential oils manufacturing house of Erba in Milan.
He joined the company and led the perfume department before branching out on his own in 1921. The first perfumes he launched were Subdola, Nina Sorrida and Venezia Mia. His company was often known by his GVM initials and pronounced JA-VA-M-E in Italy.
| The popular Contessa Azzurra was introduced in 1916 while Giuseppe was still working at the Erba company. Contessa Azzurra features a profile of a woman on their labels and boxes. | | |
This 1922 Subdola perfume bottle was made of clear glass and cased in plaster. It's molded with classic motifs and measures 5-1/4" tall.
This is the oldest version of the bottle, marked Carlo Erba and not Giviemme.
The powder box (below) measures almost 3" around and is similar in design to the bottle. It's marked on the bottom, but it's difficult to read.
| | | | | |
One of Gi.vi.emme's most notable perfumes, Tabacco D'Harar, was produced from the 1930s to the 1970s and was worn by both men and women. The fragrance was available as perfume, powder, cologne and aftershave. It was named after the ancient Ethiopian city of Harar, a center of the spice, tobacco and coffee trades.
Notes include lemon, cinnamon, cumin, lavender, jasmine, cloves, cedar, leather and tobacco.
| | Gi.vi.emme Insidia blade-shaped Murano glass perfume bottle in its box from the 1940s. | | |
Perfume Passage recently found a 1930s pamphlet for a line of men's products by Victor of Milan. The information doesn't mention if Victor was a manufacturer or perfumer but included a variety of colognes, hair products and shaving products under the Victor name.
After sharing the brochure with friends in Milan, we learned more about Victor products. Giuseppe Visconti's son-in-law, Giuseppe Gastel who worked for the company, created the Victor line. Upon Visconti's passing in 1941, Gastel continued to manage the Victor brand thru the 1970s. Victor was the only Gi.vi.emme line exclusively dedicated to men's products.
| | | Rudy Profumi is an Italian fragrance and cosmetic company, founded in Milan in 1920 by Spiridione Calabrese. The company was named after Italian actor Rodolfo Valentino, known as "Rudy," who was popular at the time. Rudy Profumi started in a small hairdressing shop, where Calabrese began experimenting with hair dyes before focusing on cosmetics and fragrances. | | |
Calabrese is credited with developing the process of melting and solidifying lipsticks into sticks, which was a significant innovation in the cosmetic industry, as at the time lipstick consisted of powders pressed with oil and sold in tiny tins.
In the 1940s, Antonio Calabrese, Spiridione's son, took over management of the company and expanded the business by developing perfume lines with distinctive packaging, transforming them into decorative collector items.
| | Squirrel figural presentation with the fragrance contained in the tail. | | La Gabbietta (The Cage) presentation, featuring a bird sitting on a branch. It contained the fragrance Agrement. | | Their first perfumes were launched in the late 1930s, and one of their popular scents was called Preludio Romantico (Romantic Prelude), which was promoted with the slogan, "The scent that brings to mind, the scent that brings you to mind." Figural perfume bottles became a popular item for the company, and they began to market their perfumes as gift items. These beautifully crafted bottles were not just containers for scents; they became display pieces even after the fragrance was gone. | | |
Perfume Passage has a large collection of Rudy Profumi figural perfume presentations on display in the Deco gallery!
Rudy Profumi was honored in our inaugural Journal publication in 2020 (left).
Today, the company is managed by the fourth generation of the Calabrese family, focusing on the Italian tradition of combining design with quality ingredients.
With a diverse range of offerings, including fragrances, body care and home products, Rudy Profumi remains a cherished name in the world of elegance and luxury.
| | |
Murano, in northern Italy, is just a stone's throw from Venice, connected by bridges and home to more than 5,000 people. The series of islands is renowned for its rich glassmaking heritage, a legacy passed down through generations for centuries!
The island’s glassmaking journey began in the late 13th century when furnaces were relocated to Murano to prevent fires in Venice. This move sparked a glass industry that flourished during the Italian Renaissance years (approximately 1300-1600). By the 19th century, ornate perfume bottles became some of the most popular items created in the area.
Talented glassmakers produced an array of ornate bottles, showcasing techniques like enameling (smalto), glass with threads of gold (aventurine), multicolored glass (millefiori), and milk glass (lattimo). Many of these bottles featured sterling rims, glass stoppers and intricate cane work within the glass itself.
Perfume Passage has a collection of these sought-after collectible Murano perfume bottles on display throughout the galleries!
| | Perfume Passage recently acquired this 9-3/4" tall clear Venetian glass perfume bottle with hand-blown glass leaves and flowers of different colors. The hundred-year-old bottle still has the long dauber intact. | | Venetian perfume bottles were imported to the US, and Hudson's, the well-known Minneapolis department store, claimed they made exquisite gifts in a December 1923 advertisement. | Murano clear glass bottle with colorful swirls and lily of the valley flowers is only 2" tall. | | Over the years, we’ve collected a wonderful array of stunning perfume bottles and vanity items from renowned Italian perfume companies, and they're on display throughout our galleries! | | Treasure of the Collection... | | |
We recently added a wonderful treasure to our Italian perfume bottle collection, and it's on display in the Vault gallery.
Ebrezza Marina Colonia by Bertelli, a fragrance for women, was released in 1950. The 5-1/8" x 3-3/4" green glass bottle has a frosted glass stopper with an image of a whale on top. The box is shaped like an aquarium and is decorated with mermaids, fish, seagulls and ocean waves. The inside of the box has ocean water ripple decorations and the lid of the box has the image of a compass.
| | The paper label on the bottle is shaped like a dolphin! | | |
- One of the first books about the Italian perfume industry was a 6" x 4" book titled "Notandissimi Secreti de l’Arte Profumatoria," (loosely translated to The Most Notable Secrets of Perfumes). It was written by Giovanventura Rosetti and published in 1555. It's 156 pages, written in Italian is one of five known copies to exist today. It's in remarkably good condition and is the oldest book in the Perfume Passage library!
| | | |
- In 1950, Italian jeweler Louis Nichilo designed a lipstick in the shape of the Leaning Tower of Pisa. It's 3" tall and made of a silver-colored based metal with faux jewels. It's marked Rome, Italy on the base.
Text Link
| | |
- Italy is recognized as the premier country for niche perfumers worldwide! Niche perfume houses are typically smaller, independent companies, often owned and operated by the perfumer themselves. They usually prioritize unique and high-quality ingredients, focusing on the artistic vision of the perfumer.
- Early Murano glassmakers were compensated for being confined to the islands of Murano to ensure their skills remained within the Venetian Republic. They were granted special privileges, including the right to marry into nobility and carry swords. Leaving the island without permission or revealing trade secrets could be punishable by death.
- Acqua di Parma is an Italian fragrance and lifestyle brand founded in 1916 in Parma. Their iconic Colonia fragrance offered a fresh and modern scent that broke away from the heavy fragrances that were all the rage at the time. Colonia quickly became the fragrance of choice for high society and film legends like Humphrey Bogart, Cary Grant and Audrey Hepburn. Originally, it was used to scent gentlemen's handkerchiefs, and eventually expanded into a broader range of products.
| | The pastime of collecting powder compacts is one that can amuse, delight and engross people from all walks of life! Whether you're on the hunt for a quaint find at a few dollars or searching for something truly exceptional, the world of ladies compacts offers something for every collector. | Among the most coveted treasures are the exquisite Italian compacts. These stunning pieces are beautifully enameled, often set in cases of sterling silver, gilded brass or even gilded silver. It’s not uncommon to see these masterpieces selling for several hundred dollars or more, as they truly represent the upper echelon of collectible compacts. | | This powder compact includes the famous 1857 "The Gleaners" image by Jean Francois Millet. The original artwork is in the Musee D'Orsay in Paris. | | |
The Italian scenic compacts originated from a handful of small, family-run jewelry businesses in Florence, designed primarily as souvenirs. There were dozens of silversmiths and jewelers who made these compacts, each using techniques that distinguished their cases from their competitors. Most were exported from Italy to the US to be sold in department stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus.
Below you will find compact and lipstick combination.
| | |
Today, these Italian enameled compacts generate a lot of interest for collectors and it's easy to understand why. Each piece was handcrafted, often adorned with renditions of classical artwork. Such cases are in fact, miniature pieces of art in their own right. allowing collectors to establish their own private art gallery!
These miniatures are not perfect copies of the originals, but some are very close. Sometimes the artwork had to be adjusted to fit the shape of the case, and often only a part of the original work was used or elements were simply omitted. At other times the whole composition was reversed and colors were changed to suit the whim of the copyist. But, despite these variations, the finished product stands on its own and makes a wonderful addition to compact collections.
| | |
Interestingly, many Italian compacts aren’t as old as one might expect, with most created after WWII.
A fascinating feature to keep an eye out for is the Fasces symbol—a bundle of sticks bound with an axe—which served as a silver hallmark in Italy between 1934 and 1944 (left).
Before the introduction of the Fasces, silversmiths used a variety of symbols or sometimes none at all to mark their creations.
However, compacts made before 1934 typically indicated their silver grade, often marked with the number 800, while some featured even higher-grade silver—up to 925, the standard for sterling silver.
Additionally, many silversmiths would stamp their initials or unique symbols, like a fleur-de-lis or lion.
There is a wonderful variety of scenic Italian compacts and lipsticks on display at Perfume Passage. Perhaps you'll recognize the original works of art when viewing the collection?
| | |
Perfume Passage Foundation is set to open in Milan, Italy in early 2026!
Focusing on the history of Italian perfumery, the museum will showcase an elegant collection of perfume bottles, vanity items and ephemera, offering visitors an immersive journey into the artistry and history of fragrance.
It is a transformation of the current Museo del Profumo. We are in the midst of breaking down walls, designing and building the interior.
| | |
Follow us on Instagram to see the progress and updates. We look forward to hosting your visit in the new year.
| | Perfume Passage Publications... | | Click bookshelf to read any of the previous Journals in a digital format on-line. | | Perfume Passage Is On Social Media... | | |
You will find everything on one site. Check out our Linktr.ee
You will find links to our past PassageWAY newsletters, video content such as the virtual tour by Erin Parsons, and much more!
| | | | | |
Interested in visiting the collection?
- Please visit our website for tour schedules for the next few months! And if you'd like to bring a group or your organization for a tour, please contact us for available dates.
- Since the galleries are locaated in a private residence, we are not open to the general public except through pre-arranged tours.
- Experiencing the collection is best when done in smaller groups, therefore we limit admission for an up close and intimate experience. See the link below for upcoming available dates.
- We also offer private group tours and many other events throughout the year.
| | | Our mission is to preserve the history, beauty and artistry of perfume bottles, compacts, ephemera and related vanity items. Through education, outreach, and awareness of the Perfume Passage collection and library, our goal is to inspire art lovers, collectors, arts and curators to keep this history alive. | | | | |
