1.Why and where to use interfacing
Interfacing is absolutely necessary to make a garment that looks good, holds-up well and needs less ironing. Some essential areas interfacing is needed are facings, plackets, cuffs, collars, waistbands, hems and anywhere button and buttonholes are to be added. In tailoring a jacket, fusible interfacing is used as interlining to create more structure along areas like the neckline and armscyes.
So, for heaven's sake, don't put time and money into a project without using interfacing and above all, use the best quality available!
2.Fusible interfacing is better than sew-in
As long as the fabric you are working with can take the heat of the iron, fusible interfacing is a better choice than sew-in. One reason would be that it is faster, but there are also fewer sew-ins available because the garment industry and savvy sewers prefer fusible.
3.How to best preshrink fusible interfacing!
The short answer is: DON’T.
If you are going through the laborious task of washing and/or rinsing fusible interfacing and then carefully hanging to dry, I am here to save you some time! Quality fusible interfacing will
never need pre-shrinking!
4.Bubbling or orange peel affect
If you have trouble with bubbling or the orange peel affect here are the three reasons that can happen:
• Poor quality interfacing. (Avoid prepackaged inexpensive interfacing often sold in chain stores). Also avoid interfacing that is not woven or knit (do not use fused fibers that look and feel like paper).
• The fabric the interfacing is glued to was not pre-shrunk.
• Interfacing did not cool before being moved from the ironing board and this is the most common mistake.
When adhering fusible interfacing first do a test piece using the fashion fabric. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for heat, steam, pressure and time. Leave the piece where it lies on the ironing board to let the hot glue completely cool before moving or sewing on it.
5.Testing is Key
You may also want to test stitching on the sample and perhaps wash and dry it, to be assured it has the proper body for the project. For testing, use about a 4" square, fuse the interfacing to the fashion fabric, add another square of fabric to sandwich the interfacing inside, stitch on it to simulate topstitching, wash, dry and press.
Only use the best interfacing
Interfacing should be made from fabric
not fused scraps of fibers that look similar to paper. Because quality fusible interfacings are
not often available in your local fabric or craft store, IslanderSewing.com has begun offering interfacing direct from the garment industry. These are the same interfacing used in high-end and designer garments.
We have 4 of the best you will find anywhere.
- Light and Stable - A superior fusible interfacing made of 100% polyester. Machine washable or dry cleanable. Provides the perfect lightweight structure where needed. Ideal for facings, plackets and waistbands and anywhere a lightweight interfacing is required. 60” wide
- Shirt Maker's Choice - Medium - 100% Cotton, medium weight interfacing recommended for professional looking collars and cuffs. Use this one for shirts or dresses. Absolutely no pre-shrinking necessary! 45" wide
- Shirt Maker's Choice - Firm - 100% Cotton, firm interfacing recommended for professional looking collars and cuffs. Use this one for cuffs and collars in garments like dress shirts. Absolutely no pre-shrinking necessary! 45" wide.
- Hair Canvas - 54% polyester, 27% hair, 12% cotton, 7% wool fusible, machine washable, tailoring canvas. Dry clean or machine wash warm, delicate cycle. Use cool iron. Perfect for coats and other outerwear garments. 23" wide
