WHERE TO NEXT?

Dear Traveler,


Madrid always delivers. 


Food, friends, fun. 


Also great shopping, nightlife, museums and weather (although yes a bit hot right now). 


Last weekend I chose to stay at the Madrid EDITION (photos below) because I love its central location, cool vibes and especially the rooftop pool when it’s 100+ degrees outside! Jessie stayed at her friend’s apartment, but they enjoyed an afternoon lounging in the sun at the EDITION pool. 


I think a pool is key when you are traveling in the summer heat – particularly with kids or teenagers. I saw a handful of kids, and quite a few families with teens and college kids at the hotel. Tip: the pool has an incredible view of the sun set – which doesn’t happen until well after 9p in the summer. One night I suggest having a cocktail on the pool terrace to watch the sunset and then going out for the very respectable Spanish dinner time of 10 or 10:30p. 


Another feature that is in every EDITION hotel, and is also good for teens, is a pool table, and often I saw teens playing late at night. 


I also did a site visit at the Thompson Hotel, and I really liked it. They have a rooftop pool too (not quite as big and without as many lounges) and are centrally located. The style is quite different. The EDITION is white white white and the Thompson has more of a darker, masculine décor. As much as I like the hotel, there is currently some construction going on right in front of it that eventually will be a city park on top of a parking garage. In the short term I’d be cautious to book it because of the potential for construction noise. But once it’s done, it will be a great option!


I did a quick visit to CR7, Christiano Ronaldo’s hotel, on Grand Via. I was eager to see it, and although they have a rooftop terrace bar (I love a great rooftop bar), it didn’t live up to the hype. There are so many other options I like better. 


As mentioned in last week’s articles, Madrid is having a moment (Skift article: Madrid Transforms Downtown to Attract Luxury Tourists as Five-Star Hotels Flourish). In my opinion the #1 most luxurious hotel is the new Four Seasons. It’s spectacular for so many reasons. But not everyone is looking for a big hotel experience, in which case there are several boutique luxury hotels that I love. 


As usual I spent a lot of time walking in Madrid, which is important for me because I love Spanish food so much. Spain is the only place that I’ve had a meal made of a singular tomato. One giant organic tomato cut in half drizzled with the best local Spanish olive oil, sea salt and thinly shaved onions. Delish! I had it twice - once at La Carmencita with some of my favorite Spanish partners. It is the second oldest restaurant in Madrid and serves such classic, traditional Spanish food in a setting that oozes old Spanish charm. And again at the restaurant highlighted below.


One afternoon I went shopping and bar hopping with a group of friends. In addition to buying two new pairs of Spanish sandals (Spain has best leather shoes!), we ended up at one of Spain’s oldest bars – Taberna de Angel Sierra (105+ years old), where they are known for their vermouth from the tap. It’s a very local Spanish experience and I highly recommend it to really feel immersed in contemporary Spanish culture. Again, another Spanish place that exudes charm. It is here I saw the sign below. 

The significance: The Spanish siesta laughs at the American dream. 


I can understand how they feel this way. Spaniards know how to enjoy life. Yes the siesta is a part of that, but also simply spending time with friends, lingering over a long meal, talking and dancing late into the night. 


Put this on repeat. 


They do it all of the time. 


This weekend I was one of them. On my last night I was at a friend's birthday party on his rooftop terrace, under a full moon, dancing, singing and talking until after 1a. Since I was departing for the airport the next morning at 5:45a, I was the first person to leave. Even at 5:45a the streets of Madrid were still full of (young) people out from the night before. And my daughter Jessie who had “set 10 alarms” so she’d be ready when my taxi picked her up at 6:10a, had overslept. 


Who could blame her? 


She had just arrived back at her friends’ apartment at 4:45a! Such is the life of a teenager in Spain. 


Yes Spanish kids tend to live with their parents throughout college and until they are 30+.  And it’s typical to have dinner reservations at 10:30p. Both of those seem odd from my American perspective. But I did willingly have dinner that late each night we were there. 


Many other things about the Spanish culture are appealing – including how close the families are. My friend's birthday party included his parents, his four siblings and their families, his wife’s brother and mom. They all live within a few minutes of each other. That is quite typical and they find it unusual how American families are spread out across huge distances around the US. 


As we often do, Jessie and I had many conversations about travels, including with the parents of her best friend. We are now all scheming for an adventure together next summer. No surprise, we have some ideas. 


We also talked about where we would live if we bought an apartment in Madrid (Jessie would like us to buy the apartment we rented when we lived there 4 years ago). It’s not happening anytime soon, but I could absolutely see living here for 1-3 months at a time once Trevor is in college. We did a lot of reminiscing about our favorite people and places. And twice ate at our favorite ice cream shop. 


We are now happily hiking in the Dolomites, but because I didn’t know how good my reception would be, I wrote this before we hopped on the helicopter to fly high into the mountains to begin our trek. Expect a more detailed report next week and follow along on my Instagram stories (presuming I have some cell service or wifi) if you want to keep up with our experiences. 


This week's curated list of travel articles includes the 50 most beautiful small towns in the world according to Architectural Digest, luxury resorts that deliver 5 star summer fun for kids and the 13 best hut-to-hut hikes in the world.


Also a Washington Post opinion piece on the travel secrets of a man who has flown 23 million miles. Heads up: it actually made me very envious.


I hope you are having a wonderful July 4th week with your family and friends!

Warmly,

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Below:

  • This week's highlight - Barrutia y El Nueve in Madrid
  • Where to Next? Four Seasons Bora Bora
  • Articles to Inspire+Inform

BARRUTIA Y EL NUEVE

I love Madrid for so many reasons. One of them is the food. Paloma, my best friend in Madrid is a talented, formally trained chef. In addition to enjoying her company because she is fun and funny, I also get the benefit of both her cooking and her restaurant selections.


Last Saturday we met up with her friends to walk around Salesas, a fun neighborhood with great boutiques, old bars and plazas full of Spaniards enjoying life. After some shopping and a stop at the oldest bar, we made our way to her chosen restaurant for lunch. Barrutia y La Nueve.


As always, I loved her choice!


It is quintessentially Spanish.


At 100+ years old, this family run restaurant exudes Spanish charm and reminds people of a Spanish grandma's house. The rooms are small and a bit disjointed. We ate in a room that required us to walk behind the bar to get to it.


They are famous for salmorejo, which is a bit like a blended gazpacho, with flakes of Manchego cheese and parsley oil. They also serve one of my favorite Spanish dishes, torreznos, a bit like chunks of crispy bacon served with a truffle puree (FYI Paloma makes these and they are even tastier from her kitchen). On the healthier side, they serve another of my favorites and most simple Spanish dishes - a tomato. Simply dressed in olive oil with sea salt flakes and shaved red onion.


Another suggestion - the tortilla de patata with white and black truffles. To be honest I don't always know what I'm eating before I taste it. But it's always delicious! I was a bit suspicious of a dish the day before when I met them out at a bar. Upon asking I learned it was pigs ears. I skipped that one.


See the menu in Spanish with an English translation here.


Their food is a good example of one of my favorite Spanish expressions - chuparse los dedos - finger licking good.


And another reason I loved it was that the chef came over and sat down with us to talk through the menu and help us decide what to order. We gave him some ideas, he would comment about it, suggest a smaller or larger portion and then help us select other dishes that would be good complements. Of course he came back to check on us throughout to hear what we thought.


How often do you have that experience? I eat out a lot and it's a rarity. And thoroughly enjoyable!


They've won awards for the best béchamel sauce in Madrid, they have delicious red and white Spanish wines and they are located in a great neighborhood - three more reasons to go.


On your next visit to Madrid, consider a similar walk through Salesas to do some shopping and then end at Burratia y El Nueve for lunch.


I had to leave before desert, but on my next visit to Madrid I will be back here and will be ordering the superpostre doble secreto de la casa (home made double secret super desert). Or if you make it there before me, let me know how it is!

🌟 In June our clients stayed at the beautiful Four Seasons Bora Bora.  It is one of my favorite properties in Tahiti and just last week, the resort was named the Top Luxury Beach Hotel Worldwide by Luxury Travel Advisor. 

 

Why is the Four Seasons Bora Bora so special?

  • Overwater bungalow suites have plunge pools or spacious decks with direct access to the water and are scattered through the lagoon.
  • Or choose a secluded beachfront villa estate, which include a personal villa host and private beach setup.
  • Dine on the property at waterfront restaurants offering Mediterranean, Asian and seafood menus. Or visit local restaurants on Bora Bora by taking the resort’s boat shuttle. Try Bloody Mary's for a fun night out (I went there on my honeymoon years ago!)

 

 Do as much or as little as you like:

  • Visit the Te Mahana Spa where treatments are rooted in ancient Tahitian traditions. Services include the popular Golden Sun Ritual.  This treatment starts with a coconut and gold scrub and is followed by an 80-minute massage with 24 carat gold oil to regenerate and repair the skin. 
  • Work out at the beachfront fitness center or take a yoga class on the beach. 
  • Enjoy the private cabanas at the pool or the complimentary sports equipment on the water.  Snorkeling gear, kayaks, canoes, stand up paddleboards and peddle boats are all included. 

 

‼️ Don’t miss…..scheduling your spa visit in the overwater treatment room with an outdoor tub and view of Mt. Otemanu. 

📷 Four Seasons Bora Bora

INSPIRATION


The 50 Most Beautiful Small Towns in the World, Architectural Digest


The Next List: Where You Need to Go in Europe in 2023, AFAR


Who Needs Adults? These Luxury Resorts Are Serious About Delivering 5-Star Summer Fun for Kids, Robb Report


Sri Lanka Is Asia’s Best Kept Secret For Unforgettable Adventures, Forbes


The 13 Best Hut-to-Hut Hikes in the World, Outside


Move Over Napa: It's All About Finger Lakes Wine Vacations, Forbes


INFORMATION


Inside The World of Ultra Wealthy Extreme Tourism, Newsweek


How to Get Over Jet Lag, According to Our Editors, Condé Nast


Opinion He has flown 23 million miles. Here are his travel secrets., Washington Post


To Improve Your Work Performance, Get Some Exercise,

Harvard Business Review



(If you aren't able to access an NYT or Washington Post article, send me a note and I'll send it to you in a PDF.)

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