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Matching the vertical lines on a plaid print.

Before we continue, here are some helpful terms used when talking about plaid prints.

Repeats: A repeat refers to the distance it takes for the pattern to start over again. This could be as simple as measuring from selvedge to selvedge. Repeats can be measured along the length and width of the fabric. The distance from a specific square on the print until you reach an identical square is called “one repeat.”

Even and Uneven Plaids: A plaid can have an even or balanced pattern or an uneven or unbalanced pattern. Even plaids have a checkered appearance to the pattern, like gingham or houndstooth. Uneven plaids have stripes of different widths, like many tartan plaids.

Small Scale and Large Scale Plaids: Some squares on plaids could be ¹/₄ x ¹/₄” big or 1 ¹/₂ x 1 ¹/₂”. The larger the print appears, the larger the scale. Some smaller scale plaids do not need pattern matching. However, the larger scale plaids will look more appealing when matched accurately and is a sign of quality work.

Directional and Non-directional: Some tartan plays will have stripes that are composed of diagonal lines leaning towards the left or towards the right. This is an example of a directional plaid, and they require more careful pattern placement. Non-directional plaids like gingham prints can be rotated 180 degrees and still look the same.

Choose a Simple Pattern

The first step to a successful pattern match is to choose a pattern with few pieces and a looser fit since they are generally easier to match. Patterns with shaping, darts, and detail mean that the garment will be more challenging to match and also require more fabric.

Mind the Bias

Be aware of pieces that need to be cut on the bias. That goes to say that this second tip goes against the first! However, plaids cut on a bias can create an attractive detailing for yokes, plackets, pockets, and cuffs. Be mindful of the width of the square on a plaid and the measurement across the square, diagonally.

Buy Extra Yardage

For a successful pattern match, it’s always a good idea to buy extra yardage of fabric. On your pattern’s fabric yardage chart, refer to the “with nap” column if provided. Although the nap of fabric actually refers to the fabric texture, the idea of the fabric not being able to be turned upside down is the same.

There is no magic formula on how to calculate the extra yardage you need to pattern match. In general, getting an extra ¹/₂ to 1 yard extra should be sufficient. Although, the amount of additional fabric you will need to get the best pattern match will depend on the complexity of the design of the garment and the scale of the plaid. Larger plaids will require more extra length than smaller plaids. Uneven plaids will need more extra length than even plaids. Larger repeats will require more fabric length than smaller repeats.

Match the Most Visible Seams First

Focus on matching seams that will be seen first. Here’s the order of priority:

• Seams below the face. People tend to see your face first!
• Center front. When working with uneven plaids, place a dominant stripe down the center front and make sure it is perpendicular to the ground and straight.
• Bust lines. Be careful when placing prints directly on the bust apex. It must be symmetrical.
• Front shoulder seams. Match horizontal stripes on plaids from the front of the shoulder piece to the bodice.
• Center Back. If you have a seam along the back of your garment, be sure to match the horizontal stripes since they are the easiest to match up.

After matching the center front and center back, consider pattern matching the waistline of a dress or jumpsuit. The side seams are the least priority because they are less noticeable. When matching pants, have a priority to match the side seams first and the inseam secondary.

After matching the major seams, plan the placement of smaller detail pieces such as collars, cuffs, plackets, and pockets. If you are new to sewing, attempt to pattern match one of these details only with a simple garment pattern.

Remember, match your pieces according to the seamline, not the edge of your pattern pieces. For example, if you have a ⁵/₈” seam allowance, measure ⁵/₈” away from the pattern edge; this is your seamline.

Lastly, linings, facings, and other pieces that are inside the garment do not need pattern matching as they will not be seen.

That’s all for now. Next week I’ll be discussing how to cut and sew your pattern-matching pieces.

Till then, happy sewing!

Carla

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