Matching Plaid Prints, Part 2 of 2

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Hello G Street,

Last week we talked about different types of plaids and how to match the print. If you haven’t had a chance to read through it, click here!

Matching prints on seam lines is proof of workmanship and quality work. It gives your “me made” garments look less homemade and more professional.

The most important part of pattern matching is the layout of the pattern paper on the fabric, then cutting the pieces so that the plaid prints on the fabric match when you sew the seams together.

Let’s continue talking about how to match plaid prints and discuss how to cut and sew your pieces.

There are three techniques to follow when cutting the pattern.

Cut one piece first, then match the following pattern pieces according to the first cut.

This is the most common technique for pattern matching. Lay out your fabric flat, in a single layer, with the right side up. Use a vertical stripe as an anchor point and match it to the grainline. If you’re cutting 2 selves of a pattern piece (for example, two back symmetrical bodices), cut one side first, then use that piece as a template to cut the second piece.

Lay the first cut piece face side down to the uncut fabric (the right sides will be together), matching the print on the fabric.

If you’re matching two different pieces, like a front and back at the side seam, lay them out next to each other and find key focal points to match, either a striking colored stripe, the widest stripe, or both.

Remember to disregard the seam allowance and match it to the seam line of each piece.

Trace your plaid print on your pattern paper.

This technique will work for most pattern matching, particularly larger scales. You will need to draw directly on your pattern paper, so consider working on a copy if you don’t want your original pattern to be covered in markings. Pattern paper with some transparency will help trace your prints.

This works well with pieces with 2 selves to cut. Lay out your fabric flat again, in a single layer, with the right side up. Find the desired area you wish to cut your piece from and trace key stripes that you’d like to mirror onto the second piece. Use a pencil or ballpoint pen to trace the stripes. Using ink pens and markers can bleed through the paper and mark your fabric.

When you’re happy with the tracing, run a tracing wheel over the lines so that it can be viewed on both sides of your pattern paper and when you need to cut out your piece with the pattern wrong side down.

Cutting on fold with your print folded symmetrically.

This is my preferred technique, but it may involve more time and effort. This technique works best with larger-scale prints and allows you to cut two layers at once.

Align the selvedges, fold right-sides together, and carefully match the print between the top and bottom layers. Be sure to keep double checking the print matches up and adjust as necessary. Baste the top and bottom layers together, ensuring the horizontal and vertical stripes are facing one another.

Once you have the alignments of both layers basted, place your pattern over the fabric, pin to place then cut. Cut slowly and carefully.

Match, Pin, Sew.

Once you’ve cut out your pieces perfectly, proceed with extra care with pinning the pieces together and sewing.

You’ll need to match the prints as you sew, so pin more than usual and check your matches frequently. You can also baste stitch your seam lines before sewing the permanent stitch. You may need to occasionally stretch or move the fabric 1/8” or 1/16” to match the stripes. Don’t worry, moving it by a hair won’t affect the overall garment construction.

I would also recommend using a walking foot when you sew prints since both the feed dogs and the walking foot will work together to move your fabric, ensuring an even feed. As opposed to just having the feed dogs do all the work while the top fabric is just going along for the ride. This is when fabrics tend to shift slightly during sewing.

Matching plaids is not as difficult as it sounds. It is learned through trial and error, though, so don’t be afraid to tackle plaid prints! Just take your time and enjoy the process. Pattern matching is much like building a jigsaw puzzle. Once you see the pieces come together, it can be very rewarding to see the final product.

Carla

Beginner's Sewing Course Instructor

The plaid top shown above is a variation of the Frilled Hem Top - Garment Sewing Class releasing soon!

This was sewn with wool fabric and without the frill hem detail. Perfect for layering in cooler months.

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PDF pattern, written instructions included. Pattern sizes 0 to 16 available.

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