May 2023

    ADMIN NOTES

Ahoy Nauti Crew,


On behalf of the Nauti by Nature Sailing Group, thank you for joining the 2023 sailing adventure! I can’t believe we have two months before our beautiful sailing adventure in the British Virgin Islands. I hope you are excited because you are about to enjoy the beautiful beaches and sites.

 

We sent out the crew list to everyone; if you haven’t contacted your captain or crew, please do so. We want everyone to get familiar with everyone—especially our captains.

 

If you are staying before or after the sailing trip, make your reservation now. Also, if you haven’t, please make your flight reservation. And check the ferry schedule to/from St. Thomas and the British Virgin Islands.


***Ferry Schedules are published for information purposes only as a service to all tourism interests. It is SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE, and NO RESPONSIBILITY is assumed for errors or omissions.

MAY 2023 CALENDAR

MAY 1 - May Day 

MAY 5 - Cinco de Mayo

MAY 6 - Kentucky Derby

MAY 14 - Mother's Day   

MAY 20 - National Armed Forces Day 

MAY 29 - Memorial Day

Rule Change at The Baths, BVI: What You Need to Know

Matt Weidert

Background on the Baths rule change


If you’re not familiar, The Baths is a BVI National Park, renowned for the massive granite boulders piled atop each other along the western shore of Virgin Gorda. There are several incredible trails, including one right through the granite boulders, known as the Caves.

You can enter at the parking lot at the Top of the Baths, or, in settled conditions, you can swim ashore from a dinghy mooring.


As tourism has grown in the British Virgin Islands, along with more frequent cruise ship visits, this popular attraction has become quite crowded.

Veteran crews know to avoid the Baths when cruise ships are in town since the Caves trail can become a standstill gridlock. Why? Aside from too many people, the Caves trail has several ladders and narrow passages that quickly back up with 2-way traffic.


The Baths rule change: one way only


So, the BVI government recently instituted or started enforcing a rule change. The Caves trail is now one way, entering on the southern side at Devil’s Bay, and exiting near the Poor Man’s Bar.

But that’s not all!


Even if you have a BVI National Parks permit (included in all charters), you now must pay to access The Baths. It is an exception written in fine print on the back of the permit: The purchasing of this permit does NOT include entry fees to The Greater Baths National Park.

Here is the fee schedule:

  • Adults: $3
  • Kids $2

My view? Collecting the fees from swim-ashore visitors was the real driver for enforcing the one-way, not crowd control.


How does the Baths rule change affect your plans?


So here’s how it works.

  • You can use the dinghy moorings on either side of the Caves trail
  • Swim ashore
  • If you land near the exit, you’ll be directed to the entrance near the Top of the Baths
  • Pay the fee
  • Hike down to the entrance, and enjoy the Caves trail (and the beautiful Devil’s Bay beach of course)
  • Swim back to your dinghy
  • If you land at Devil’s Bay first, you’ll first do the Caves hike before looping back to the entrance to pay your fee


Make sure you bring a good pair of water (or hiking) shoes! Bring some soggy dollars as well for the fee – but you were probably already planning on that for a post-hike painkiller.


So are there any workarounds? Perhaps. I suppose if you get dropped off in the dinghy by a crew member, they could pick you up at the beach near the exit to avoid the loop back to the top. 


But, rules are rules, and I’m not suggesting anyone break them.

I don’t think the new fee is a big deal, but make sure you consider the added time needed to hike up and back down. Perhaps you have some kids in tow. Round-trip, however, it’s less than 3/4 of a mile.


Other tips for visiting the Baths


First time visiting the Baths? Here are some of my other tips:

  • If there is a northerly swell running, there will likely be a yellow or red flag flying. Consider changing your plans to swim ashore. Grab a slip at the Virgin Gorda Yacht and take a taxi. Or, rent a car from North Sound. Stop along the way for a barbecue lunch and amazing views at Hog Heaven
  • We like to visit early – the mooring field can fill up quickly and we don’t like waiting inside the Caves trail
  • Make sure to check the cruise ship schedule. Avoid days where cruise ships are in town. If you can’t avoid it, go as early as possible, or later in the afternoon

Best of luck on your next visit to the Baths! You can read more of my articles about the British Virgin Islands here.

Required Eating: Meals Not to Miss in the BVI

Fill your island time with freshly caught seafood, smoky jerk chicken, East Indian specialties, and plenty of Painkillers.

Located to the east of Puerto Rico in the Caribbean Sea, the British Virgin Islands comprise four main islands—and more than 60 smaller ones. It’s no surprise then that cuisine here is seafood-centric, with Anegada, in particular, being known for its lobster-filled reef. What’s less expected is the delicious fusion of flavors on offer, from Caribbean, East Indian, and African to Spanish, French, Dutch, and English.


Below, we’ve rounded up the BVI’s best food and where to try it, whether you’re craving conch fritters, Caribbean lobster, or chicken roti. Whatever you order, be sure to accompany it with a Painkiller, a potent libation of local rum, fresh fruit juice, and nutmeg that was invented in the BVIs.


Weekend barbecue at Foxy’s

Jost Van Dyke


In 1968, Philicianno “Foxy” Callwood opened an eponymous bar on Jost Van Dyke to cater to the yacht crowd that came for the island’s white-sand beaches. The indoor-outdoor spot was such a success that, a half-century later, it remains a favorite of the boating set, who often moor their dinghies off Foxy’s dock.

Open 365 days a year, the bar is famous for signature drinks like the Dread Fox (a blend of Foxy’s own Firewater rum, cranberry juice, and sour mix). It also serves Caribbean fare like local lobster, conch fritters, and chicken roti, but it’s the weekend barbecue you won’t want to miss. On Saturdays and Sundays, Foxy’s goes all out with multiple grills right on the beach, offering unlimited servings of barbecued ribs, chicken, and mahi mahi—plus sides like pasta salad, rice and peas, grilled vegetables, and tropical fruit—for just $35 per person.


Chicken roti at Soggy Dollar

Jost Van Dyke


You can’t visit the BVI without stopping by the Soggy Dollar. The Jost Van Dyke bar gets its name from the fact that it’s only reachable by boat and doesn’t have any docks, so guests have to swim in from their anchored yachts or ferries. Once ashore, they end up paying for their drinks with soggy dollars (or a wet credit card).


After working up an appetite on your swim, dig into the chicken roti, served with mango chutney and a garden salad. It’s one of the better examples of the East Indian food popular throughout the BVI. To drink, get a Painkiller, which was invented at the Soggy Dollar in 1970 and is still made with the same top-secret ratio of premium dark rum, cream of coconut, pineapple and orange juices, and freshly grated Grenadian nutmeg.


Jerk chicken from J Blakx Jerk BBQ

Tortola


The Black family has been barbecuing meat in the BVIs since 1994, earning a reputation for tender, flavorful fare. After closing their original restaurant in 2001, they reopened as a food truck in 2018 with a new concept—instead of grilling meats, they smoked them low and slow. From their truck in Road Town, Tortola, they now offer ribs, brisket, and homemade sausage, but their specialty is jerk chicken, which they season with a secret rub before cooking in the smoker.


Available to order as a half chicken, chicken breast, or jerk chicken salad, it makes for the perfect aprés-beach meal, especially when paired with made-from-scratch sides like rice and peas, warm potato salad, and corn on the cob. Order your meal to go, or enjoy it at one of the umbrella-shaded picnic tables set up next to the truck.


Ital cuisine at Irie Ites Ital

Tortola


Ital—derived from the English word “vital”—is the plant-based cuisine of the Rastafari movement in Jamaica. Intended to improve health and energy, the diet focuses on foods from the earth, excluding all meat and anything processed. Try it for yourself at Irie Ites Ital, located up in the mountains of Tortola. Here, Sarai and Jamal Bradshaw serve a seasonally rotating menu of Ital dishes like cassava cakes, lentil burgers, and broccoli salad alongside creative specials like carrot “hot dogs” and vegan mac-and-cheese. The only processed items on the menu are rice and pasta; everything else is made in-house, much of it with ingredients from the Bradshaws’ own garden. If you can’t decide between all the delicious options, order the $12 special, which comes with a little bit of everything on the menu. And after your meal, sip some sorrel tea while wandering among the banana trees that dot the property.


Painkiller at Pusser’s Pub

Tortola


Named for the officer in Great Britain’s Royal Navy who distributed supplies—including each sailor’s daily ration of rum—Pusser’s Pub pays tribute to the “British” in BVI. The Tortola bar mimics an English pub with lots of wood, stained-glass chandeliers, and Victorian-era model ships, plus its very own Pusser’s wood-distilled rum, based on the navy’s original formula. While the menu features especially good jerk chicken and pork, as well as pizza and a delicious sirloin burger, you’re really here for the Painkiller cocktail, made with Pusser’s rum, cream of coconut, pineapple, and orange juices, and nutmeg. It’s available in three different strengths, and you can order it in a take-home tin mug, emblazoned with the Crown Colony insignia. Once you’ve got one in hand, go outside to the porch, where you can join the locals enjoying views of the Road Town waterfront.



White Bay Beach, Jost van Dyke

You can’t write a top 10 BVI beach list without including White Bay towards the top of the it. It can also be found atop several “best of the Caribbean” lists. Recently in USA Today’s Top 10 Caribbean Beach Bars, the Soggy took #1 and Hendo’s Hideout, #4.


It’s the best place in the British Virgin Islands to spend a full day beach bar hopping. Be prepared for crowds, however, as it’s the most popular beach in the BVIs.


Visit the Soggy Dollar Bar for the original painkiller, or find out which establishment serves up the best bushwacker.



To visit White Bay, you can anchor on the east or west side, if not redlined. I actually prefer to stay overnight at Diamond Cay and take a short taxi ride. You can read more about why I think this is better in my post about the hazards of staying in White Bay.