MythBuster #15
The Twisted Sleeve = Bad Pattern Making
Stop the insanity! One certain step toward making garments that you will wear and be comfortable in is to have a "critical eye" when choosing a pattern.
 
Let's start with sleeves; over the last few months as we discussed fit and how to make a sloper I have heard from many of you about sleeves twisting and not fitting and/or not comfortable. This week on Tuesdays at Two , I demonstrated the best way to take excess ease out of a sleeve cap. As we discussed sleeves I pointed out the back armscye is always longer than the front and the sleeve needs to have a bit more ease in the back, therefor NO sleeve should ever be cut on the fold. Wow! I was shocked at the number of you that said you have many patterns where the sleeve is cut on the fold! YIKES! This makes me so sad as I know there are people who have given up sewing because they conclude, when a garment doesn't work out well, it's all their fault and I know that's just not the case.
 
The first place to use your "critical eye" is when shopping for a pattern. Hopefully, the pattern maker has pictures of models in sample garments. When you see a style that piques your interest, stop, and look at how the garment hangs from the body, especially the sleeves. After little research we were able to find several examples of twisted sleeves in patterns for sale today by independent pattern companies. This tells me one important thing; the pattern seller is NOT a qualified pattern drafter as they not only made a bad sleeve/armscye pattern, but they photographed it and did not even notice how bad it looks!
 
The second place to critique before starting a garment is the actual pattern pieces. To confirm the armscye is correct lay the front on top of the back and/or measure the seam line. If they are identical, do not use this pattern. Next take the sleeve and fold in half. If it is symmetrical do not make this pattern!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (see more about the sleeve pattern below)
Don't Get it Twisted
Telltale signs a sleeve pattern is bad include, the drag lines (see photo) or the shirt keeps drifting back on your shoulders causing the wearer to periodically feel the need to pull the shirt forward for comfort. Sound familiar? Take heart, it is simply not your fault, it is not your body type, it’s the pattern maker! Yep, if a sleeve and armscye are not drafted properly it does not matter how well you sew it in, it just will not look, feel, or fit nice.

Pictured here is an actual pattern from a popular independent pattern company. The sleeves twist and are very uncomfortable.
Above I have traced the Front armscye in blue and the back armscye in red. When compared (seen just behind the model) you can easily see the back needs to be longer than the front and the shape is different. This is always true, and you can see why just by analyzing a profile of any body, The back is rounded from the shoulder down but not in the front.
This correct sleeve pattern is folded in half to illustrate the back of the sleeve (red) will be obviously longer and the front (blue) is shorter. If you find a pattern where the front is longer, burn the pattern as it is a disaster destined to be a * "wadder" not to mention a giant waste of time and money.
 
 

*wadder: a sewing project that is so bad you just wad it up and throw it away.
On Sale This Week
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Princess Seam Sketches
Three Kits Available
As you know at Islander Sewing Systems we like to make everything easy. So once again we have created 3 different size kits with all the supplies you need to create a woven bodice sloper - each has been discounted by 20 to 25%.

View Kits All supplies are also available for purchase separately.

To view FREE lessons on the woven sloper click here!
Knit Fit Kits
Finally! We once again have 5 fabulous colors of lightweight Rayon knit to choose from when you order a Knit Fit Kit.

March 3 thru April 28 Janet provided fit along lessons so you can achieve a perfect fitting knit T-shirt or tunic.

It's easier than you think when you use the CS1207 Knit Sloper pattern by Connie Crawford. Sizes available range from 6 to 6X and no matter your cup size the fit is perfect! - NO DARTS -

Learn how to make a knit sloper and then use it again and again with any commercial pattern to assure a perfect fit every time.
When you complete a sloper using the FREE lessons you will have an easy time adjusting any knit pattern to fit, and along the way Janet helps you understand how to identify a quality pattern and how to avoid a poorly made one. For more information click on the two links just below.