A Sardinian Cookbook
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A Sardinian Cookbook Giovanni Pilu and Roberta Muir A book review by Franz Scheurer Regional Italian cookbooks are not so common and Sardinia has just about been ignored. This island has a wonderful artisanal food tradition with a time-honoured way of doing things and Giovanni Pilu and Roberta Muir bring the flavours of Sardinia to life with wonderful local insights and stories. Sardinians have always foraged for ingredients in the mountains and forests: fennel, asparagus, chicory, nettles, chestnuts, berries and honey, while rabbit, wild boar and other game are still hunted in the traditional way. Sardinian cuisine is flavoured with the wild herbs that grow everywhere on the island: bay leaves, juniper berries, mint and sage, as well as the characteristic Sardinian myrtle, all used in stocks, marinades and to scent roasted meat. This book tames a wild island without losing any of the essence of Sardinia. Anson Smart's photography is superb and the recipes are very achievable. The book is divided into: Bread Pasta and Rice Vegetables Seafood Meat and Poultry Hunting and Foraging Pastries and Desserts Cheese and Drinks Followed by Basic Recipes, Ingredients, Equipment and Cooking Tips, Acknowledgements, and a very workable Index. As I had the pleasure of accompanying Giovanni and Roberta to Sardinia (I was taking the location photography) I admit I fell in love with the island, its people and the food and wine. In this book, Chef Giovanni manages to perfectly present that food and wine while Roberta has captured the voices of chef and locals. Together they have captured Sardinia's soul. Leafing through the book some recipes stand out for me. Pork Scratchings Bread on page 11; Gallurese-style Bread Pudding on page 15; Lemon Tagglierini with Sea Urchin and Artichoke Cream on page 26; Lombrichi Pasta with Octopus Sauce on page 34; Borlotti Bean, Tuscan Cabbage and Fregolone Soup on page 58; Bottarga-crusted Tuna with Asparagus on page 89; Kid Cooked Shepherd-Style on page 112; Spit-roasted Lamb Offal on page 135; and Hare Braised in Mirto on page 153 for the savoury sections. When it coms to sweets, it's impossible for me to ever go past Deep-fried Cheese Pastries (Seadas) when they are served at Pilu at Freshwater - they are on page 202. Pilu might be already a multi-award winning restaurateur and chef in Sydney, but in this book he brings Sardinia, his home, to life. This is definitely a must-own book. Go on, what are you waiting for? RRP $49.95 Published by Lantern (Penguin) ISBN 9 781921 382598 |