Greetings from the Adirondacks, NY
During the summer we head North to rusticate amid the conifers and lakes. This year we brought 15 potted dahlia plants so we could follow their progress where there are longer days and cooler nights. We planted five at a local community garden in Inlet, NY, and ten at our nearby summer camp. They have been in the ground for about a week.
The two tasks that I cannot avoid, are tying and topping.
It regularly rains at night, and plants with thin stalks are vulnerable to breaking or toppling if they have not been tied securely.
I snip/top/pinch off the central or “terminal” growing shoot to encourage side shoots (called laterals) in the joints between the leaves and stalk. This will create more blooms. Note: some laterals will develop without topping, but it is really best to pinch out the terminal shoot. It seems to tell the plant to get going and make laterals with blooms! More details here (video).
Container dahlias will bloom on short stalks, usually under 18 inches. Everything is compressed. If you save the tubers at the end of the season and plant them in your garden the following year, they will likely grow to triple the height. “Mignon” and “Micro” will retain their short and small size from year to year.
Most dahlias available as tubers will grow to three feet or more. To create the necessary energy they need water, sunlight, and minerals. A minimum of an inch of water a week is required, along with mulch to retain the moisture. At least a half day of sunlight is necessary for photosynthesis which creates needed sugars. Organic or mineral fertilizers stimulate development. If your soil is rich, the latter may not be necessary.
If you do nothing in July, the dahlia plant will probably grow by itself.
Enjoy your summer,
Harry Rissetto
