You can never replicate an institution, but elements come close-at least in fla-vor and friendly wel­-come-at the first Washington-area franchise of the legendary Tennessee fried-chicken joint (now with 20-plus locations). We're starstruck by the crackling pieces of white and dark meat, tinged ochre by spices that burn as slow as the classic soul playing in the background. Sides are bit players-decent collards, mac and cheese, slaw-though it's worth lingering for chocolate chess pie.

Also good: Fried green tomatoes; fried pickles; root-beer float.

Some of our favorite burgers can be found at this mod cafe devoted to Shaanxi-style snacks and noodles. House-made rice-flour buns hold morsels of cumin-scented lamb, red-onion-studded pork, and five other fillings, and we'd be happy downing them all. Chili-flecked pea-nuts and skewers of grilled bean curd make a fitting prelude.

Also good: Skewers of lamb, pork, chicken, and beef; sesame dumplings; knife-cut noodles; cold skin noodles with vinegar and peanuts.

Also good: Pork-skin tacos; carnitas tacos; cactus tacos.