September 23, 2024

All things Perfume Passage Foundation on one website!

A Note From The Founders...


Our collecting history began as we searched for men's colognes. We wore them, saved them and learned about the history of vintage scents.


Along the way, our journey expanded to collecting vintage items that related to the perfumes we loved, as we discovered some of our favorite companies also produced compacts, cosmetics and ladies accessories.

We can't help ourselves, is the phrase all collectors seem to use!


So for this issue, we thought we'd share a fun ladies accessory item that is the perfect "go-with" item at Perfume Passage -- lipsticks!!


Sincerely,

Jeffrey and Rusty, Co-founders


Perfume Passage recently expanded existing displays of compacts and vanity items, adding new exhibits of vintage accessories, including powder boxes and puffs, solid perfumes, purses and lipsticks. We've moved the 1940s Beauty Bar outside the lower-level foyer area, and it's filled with vintage cosmetics and beauty products!


Our vintage lipsticks and lipstick accessories collection is displayed in a beautiful black wooden tiered showcase with two display sections. As we continue to expand our cosmetic collection, we've discovered the strong relationship between ladies accessories and the perfume industry.

"If you're sad, add more lipstick and attack..." Coco Chanel

Coloring the Lips...

We all know that lipstick is a cosmetic that applies color, texture and protection to our lips. It's usually made of wax with oils mixed in, and pigments are added for color. Although the name originally referred to the stick of material within a container, lipstick now refers to the total product!


Do you know some of the early fascinating facts about lip coloring?


  • Around 5,000 years ago in ancient Mesopotamia (present-day Iran, Turkey, Syria and Kuwait), men and women crushed gemstones to place on their lips.


  • Ancient Egyptians, including Cleopatra, crushed bugs to produce a red coloring on their lips.


  • Lipstick was used to show social status in many ancient civilizations.


  • Centuries ago, fish scales produced a pearlescent substance that could produce a shimmer on the lips.


  • In China, they used beeswax with scented oils to protect their lips over 1,000 years ago.


  • Australian Aboriginal girls would use ochre (clay pigments) to add red coloring to their lips for rituals.

Lipstick History...




During the reign of Queen Elizabeth I (1558-1603), bright red lips, made 


from beeswax and plant stains, added a strong contrast to the fashionable and popular stark white face powder that was worn.


Wearing cosmetics soon became unacceptable for "proper ladies," as it was considered only appropriate for theater actors and prostitutes. Warnings were published detailing the dangers of using home-made products that contained lead and other poisons on your face.

In 1870, it was the popular perfume house of Guerlain that created the first refillable lipstick. Guerlain fragrances are a favorite at Perfume Passage, and it was a surprise to learn that the beginnings of lipstick as we know it today can be traced back to this iconic company.


Guerlain was founded in Paris in 1828 by Pierre-Francois Pascal Guerlain, and following his death in 1864, the perfumery was left to his sons Aime and Gabriel Guerlain. Gabriel was responsible for managing and expanding the perfume house, and Aime became the master perfumer.

Guerlain's first lipstick was said to be made with deer tallow, beeswax and castor oil and the finished lipstick was wrapped in silk paper. It was called Ne m'oubliez pas (Forget me not). This photo is from the Guerlain archives in Paris.

Documentation reveals that an employee of the Guerlain's was out for a stroll and entered a candlemaker's shop. The wax and colored pigments of the candles sparked an idea in him. At the time, women were using colored powder to paint their lips, and seeing the candlemaker's tools, he thought about creating a waxy cosmetic for the lips in the shape of a stick.


This first commercial lip product certainly revolutionized the cosmetic industry, and now ne m'oubliez pas is on the Perfume Passage search list!

Lipstick Through the Decades...


By the late 1890s US mail order catalogs, began advertising "lip and cheek rouge or lip pomade." The product was not sold in tubes but rather wrapped in paper and placed in paper tubes or sold in smaller metal pots. H.C. Miner's was from New York, and the shade was "light."

Inventors and manufacturers soon began developing "push-up" and "swivel" style lipstick tubes. The story behind their creation is a fascinating and lengthy tale, and collectors and researchers have discovered several versions of this history.


New York businessman and importer of powder puffs, Maurice Levy, is often cited as the inventor of the first push-up lipstick tube in 1915.


Research also shows that some thought the Scovill Manufacturing Company of Waterbury, Connecticut, was the inventor of the lipstick tube working with Levy. Scovill was a well-known compact case manufacturer in the 1920-1940s.

William G. Kendall of Newark, New Jersey, received several patents in the 1920s for compacts. He also received the earliest US patent found for a metal lip stick tube in August 1917. His patent application stated that his goal was to improve holders for lip sticks of rouge that included constructing a holder in the form of a tube with a cap at one end. And he wanted it to be "cheaply manufactured and readily assembled."

In addition, patent documentation has been found showing that James Bruce Mason Jr. of Nashville, Tennessee, received a patent for the first "swivel-up" tube in 1923.


However, Australian Michael Hetherington's compact blog includes documented proof of the timeline, inventors and companies that all participated in the development of the first tube of lipstick, making it a portable item for women to carry! Click here for a must read to get the scoop and stories

1920s

Dark red lipstick was one of the most popular color shades in the 1920s, as flapper gals often wore lipstick to symbolize their independence.


The 1929 Butler Bros. catalog offered Tre-Jur lipsticks by the dozen or gross. A bargain at around 7 cents each, even if you bought 144 of them!

It was a trend to wear lipstick around the lips to form a "cupid's bow" that was inspired by popular actress Clara Bow.

One of the oldest lipsticks in the Perfume Passage collection is Dorin's 2" brassy Champagne Irroy Reims lipstick from 1920. It's stamped Dorin Paris France on the inside.

1930s

In the 1930s, Hollywood glamour was all the rage, as were emerging fashion magazines, and so ladies were following new lipstick trends. The cupid's bow look was replaced with a thinned-out shape with a slightly enlarged upper lip for an evening look that wasn't quite as vampy as the 1920s. Popular lipstick shades were dark reds, maroons and raspberry tones.


In the early 1930s, cosmetic entrepreneur Elizabeth Arden began to introduce different lipstick colors, inspiring other companies to create a variety of lipstick shades as well. Max Factor, Coty, Helena Rubinstein, Tangee, Peggy Sage, Charles of the Ritz and Kissproof, among others, had all introduced lipsticks in the 1920s and continued adding varieties of lipsticks to their cosmetic lines in the 1930s.

A 1930s ad featured Max Factor's new Hollywood lipstick promoted by actress Myrna Loy

Case manufacturers, such as the Connecticut Bridgeport Manufacturing Company, were producing lipstick tubes in a variety of shapes and sizes, decorating and labeling them for their cosmetic company customers.


Teenage girls believed that lipstick was a symbol of becoming a woman, but many adults saw it as an act of rebellion, as a 1937 survey revealed that over 50% of teenage girls fought with their parents over wearing lipstick!


As lipstick was becoming more commercially successful, most companies were focusing on making their brand “kiss-proof” and long-lasting. In 1939, Max Factor, Jr., invented a “kissing machine” with rubber lip molds attached to a pressure gauge. The machine was supposedly designed to give ladies on the Max Factor assembly line a break from kissing tissues!

1940s

As the 1930s came to a close, the 1940’s cosmetic companies continued introducing new lipsticks, as women were not going to let the war prevent them from having a little bit of glamour in their lives.


Red was still the color of choice, and there were numerous shades of red to choose from, and the full-mouth look replaced the thin contour of 1930s lips.

Supplies of all materials were scarce during the war years, and some companies replaced their metal tubes with plastic and faux wooden cases. Women were encouraged to wear the reddest lipstick as cosmetics were promoted as “beauty was your duty,” and wearing red lipstick symbolized victory, optimism and boosted morale.

In the 1940s, Besame’s American Beauty was one of the most popular shades of red. The company has reissued the shade, calling it a "true replica of a color from 1945."

1950s

In the 1950s, popular film actresses Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor and Grace Kelly, among others, helped bring back dark red lips. However, a 1951 survey revealed that two-thirds of teenage girls wore lipstick, and as parents generally frowned on teen girls wearing red lipstick, many began wearing pink and peach lipsticks, which also became a trend throughout the decade.

In 1948, Hazel Bishop, an organic chemist from New York, created the first long-lasting lipstick, called "No-Smear lipstick." Along with Alfred Berg, she founded Hazel Bishop Inc. to manufacture these "kiss-proof" lipsticks.


Other companies followed with their own "kiss-proof" lipsticks along with their new lipstick innovations.


In addition, ads with celebrities promoting lipsticks were prevalent, as if your favorite actress claimed to wear a certain color lipstick from a specific company, why shouldn't you!

Hazel Bishop lip products ended up taking over 25% of the American lipstick market, and within four years, sales soared to $10 million.


In 1951, Bishop became the first woman to appear solo on the cover of Business Week.

Lipstick Accessories...

Like so many categories of vintage collectibles, there are always the go-with items that were produced to use, and of course, now entice collectors. So we thought we'd share some of the Perfume Passage lipstick accessory items!

Bright red lipstick was all the rage in the 1930s-1950s. But what did a lady do when at a dinner party--did she soil the pure white linen napkin of her hostess?

Lipstick hankies were a fashionable answer to this dilemma. Made in bright red cotton to hide lipstick stains, the round and square shapes, along with humorous designs, made these a must-have item for the new modern woman.

An alternative to a lipstick hanky were lipstick tissues in matchbook-like packages. A 1932 newspaper columnist claimed that "they are so mind-blowing they were clearly invented by a woman, since "no mere man could be so ingenious!"


Kleenex started packaging lipstick tissues in the mid-1930s, as using linen napkins or towels to remove your lipstick was considered a social faux pas. Their advertisements suggested that these etiquette errors could be avoided by using their lipstick tissues!


If you wanted something more ornate to remove your lipstick, lipstick pads were another option. They are larger and thicker than tissues and the printed graphics are adorable! They can be found in boxes, sometimes with up to 50 pads inside.

Ceramic lipstick holders were a must for a vanity in the 1930s-1950s and lucite lipstick holders could hold one or more favorite tubes. This 2" lucite holder was made by the Bircraft Company of Huntington, Indiana. They were founded by husband and wife Bernard and Clara Bircraft in 1946, and were in business until 1979, when the company was sold. Bircraft specialized in handmade carved and painted lucite knick-knacks, using the reverse-carving technique that's been popular since Victorian times.

While some lipsticks had attached mirrors or even pop-up mirrors when moving the slide opening, a separate mirror to clip around your lipstick was a handy accessory item for a lady to carry.

This 3" silvertone lipstick case has a mesh design with a folder- over rhinestone clasp and was perfect to protect your lipstick tube in your purse.

From the Hollywood Lipstick Applicator Company (what a name!), comes a sensational new method of lipstick makeup for screen and stage stars, photographer's models and for your own personal use!


This 1950s applicator came with complete instructions with images on how to apply your lipstick "even though your lip line may not be perfectly shaped!"

Lipstick Ephemera...

At Perfume Passage, our ephemera collection includes all categories. So of course, our vintage vanity postcards, Valentines and newspaper clippings include those with lipstick themes!

Old newspapers are a great source of information as we're able to date and learn the original costs of the lipsticks that are part of our collections. And who doesn't turn to the comics section for a good laugh?

Comic synopsis

  • A blonde and brunette are talking, blonde says her date compared her to a gangster's moll, she doesn't want him to get away with saying that!
  • Brunette responds and says it's probably because "the crazy way you slap on the paint, that red-hot mama lipstick makes you look exactly like a pick-up!"
  • Blonde decided that while her friend is frank, she knows her way around and that she must learn what lipstick she wears.
  • Blonde visits the druggist and asks what marvelous lipstick her friend wears or if it's a secret.
  • The druggist claims that all his best customers use Tangee!


From the Perfume Passage Collection...

The 1950s Leaning Tower of Pisa shaped lipstick was designed by Italian Louis Nichilo. It can be found in sterling or brassy finishes with different colored stones.



Barack Obama once said, "You can put lipstick on a pig. It's still a pig." Did he realize that a pig could be a lipstick? The head of this 2" brassy 1920s pig pulls out to reveal the lipstick.

While most Elvis fans wanted to "plant one on him," he promoted his own lipstick with the saying, "keep me always on your lips!" This was produced in 1956 by the Teen-Ager Lipstick Corporation of Elvis Presley Enterprises.

Between 1961 and 1963, Revlon released a series of lipstick dolls, also known as Couturines. They were made out of a rubber-like material and had fabric and ribbon coverings, and some wore hats and rhinestone necklaces. The more ornate ones wore fur, including real chinchilla, fox and mink! Many were promoted as the perfect Christmas gift in department store ads, as seen in this December 10, 1961 ad from the Hartford, Connecticut Courant newspaper.

Lipsticks were often part of a ladies compact in a variety of ways, such as a matched set. In the 1950s, Volupte made a "lip-lock" compact where the lipstick pushed in to clasp the compact! Several compact companies, including JM Fisher, made beautiful enamel "tango" compacts--those with an attached lipstick.

Did You Know...

  • In the 1920s, it was acceptable for a lady to apply her lipstick in public and during lunch, but never at dinnertime!


  • By the end of WW2, lipstick was the most commonly purchased cosmetic by women in the world. In 1946, American women spent an estimated $29 million for 5,000 tons of lipstick – 190 million individual lipsticks in all!


  • In the 52 weeks ending April 2023, lipstick generated sales of over $550 million in the US. Lip gloss and other lip products accounted for an additional $331 million.


  • Classic red is considered the most seductive lipstick color!


  • Lipsticks could be worn as well as worn. These 1920s-1930s rare rhinestone lipstick clip and ring both have a pull out tiny red lipstick. Probably enough for two applications!
  • And of course, if you preferred gemstones to rhinestones, you could carry your favorite shade in a 1930s platinum, sapphire and diamond trimmed lipstick case by Van Cleef & Arpels!

Perfume Passage Publications...

Our Journal Issue No. 9, Glamour in a Case: American Compacts and their Makers, will be available soon. You won't want to miss learning about ladies compacts, manufacturers and histories of some of our favorite collectibles!



In addition, all past Journals are available on our website, along with our first published book, The Art of Montral Powder Watch Compacts 1927-1931, written by authors and collectors Howard W. Melton and Anne de Thoisy-Dallem.


Perfume Passage Is On Social Media...

You will find everything on one site. Check out our Linktr.ee

You will find links to our past PassageWAY newsletters, video content such as the virtual tour by Erin Parsons, and much more!

Interested in visiting the collection?


  • As a private residence, we are not open to the general public except through pre-arranged tours.


  • Experiencing the collection is best when done in smaller groups, therefore we limit admission for an up close and intimate experience. See the link below for upcoming available dates. 


  • We also offer private group tours and many other events throughout the year. 
Contact us for more information

Our mission is to preserve the history, beauty and artistry of perfume bottles, compacts, ephemera and related vanity items. Through education, outreach, and awareness of the Perfume Passage collection and library, our goal is to inspire art lovers, collectors, arts and curators to keep this history alive. 

Perfume Passage Foundation perfumepassage.org

Facebook  Instagram  Twitter  Youtube