Rough diamond crystal. Transmitted and reflected light. Image by Gary Roskin. Diamond provided by AMGAD. | | |
Top Newsletter Features from our last Report:
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#1.) Trade Warning! Fade Test Corundum!
Beware Color Instability
in Irradiated Ruby, Sapphire
There's an Industry Awareness Campaign?
CIBJO Shares Joint Statement
AGTA Highlights Importance
On Monday, March 24, 2025, CIBJO, The World Jewellery Confederation, sent out a joint press release alerting members of the trade after seeing an uptick of irradiated corundum (sapphire and ruby) with unstable color, "particularly sourced in Sri Lanka."
The issue with irradiated sapphires and rubies is that their unstable (and more attractive) color will fade away, and not return.
1. Irradiated sapphire and ruby are reportedly being sold without proper disclosure. Test everything!
2. Stability testing is performed in all the major professional gem laboratories on a regular basis.
3. You can easily test for color stability in sapphires at your office desk. (see below)
According to the release, "the materials in question, which have a pleasing but temporary appearance, were earlier reported upon in a 2022 press release entitled 'Irradiation of Rubies: a Cautionary Note.'”
The Letter
In a letter from the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) addressed to, among others, the Sri Lankan Gem & Jewellery Association (SLGJA), AGTA expressed their concern, noting that "many U.S. dealers have been forced to stop purchasing yellow, peach, and Padparadscha sapphires, as well as rubies, from Sri Lankan dealers due to concerns about their color stability. A significant number of these gemstones are reportedly unstable, fading to almost white or light pink tones—or in the case of rubies, turning dark red over time."
The letter went on to say, "it has come to our attention that some vendors may be using radiation from various sources to create temporary, undisclosed treatments. The AGTA and other industry associations strongly oppose these unethical practices, as they risk eroding consumer trust and diminishing demand for colored stones altogether."
Tap here to follow the latest on sapphires with color stability issues!
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#2) Photomicrography: Images from Within
Images by Sammantha Maclachlan
Sammantha Maclachlan has sent us yet another amazing photomicrograph.
Here we have a red-orange "bowling pin" crystal (most likely a garnet) inclusion inside a quarter carat diamond.
This photomicrograph is a stack of 20 images taken at a magnification of 120x.
Sammantha Maclachlan is an accomplished gemmologist and photomicrographer. Her attention to gemmological detail and beauty is evident within the incredible shots shown here and in the Roskin Gem News Report online magazine. We thank Sammantha for sharing her images, and welcome you to enjoy the page!
Tap Here for more Gemmological Eye-Candy from Sammantha
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#3) A Promising Look
at Pakistan’s Gemstone Industry
Four features - Three Views!
Over the past few weeks, we’ve been pleased to discover four short and positive feature stories about Pakistan’s gemstone industry.
We’re sharing these brief glimpses into the ongoing conversations, along with links to the full reports for further reading.
Pakistan’s Gemstone Industry: A Billion-Dollar Opportunity Waiting To Shine
Time to Unlock KP’s Gemstone Potential
UET Initiates Gemstone Identification, Cutting & Polishing Courses
and Students Advised to Develop Expertise in Gemstone Sector
We understand the challenges of making positive strides in the region, which is why every report of progress in our industry gives us hope.
Tap here to read positive views on Pakistan's gem potential!
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THIS WEEK
in the Roskin Gem News Report
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Roller Coaster!
Gems & Jewellery Sector in India
U.S. Tariff Shock - as reported on CNBC TV18
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Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report
Whiplash!
In a mind-numbing 180-degree reversal on Wednesday, the U.S. president abruptly paused all newly imposed 'reciprocal' tariffs for 90 days—except for the steep 145% levy on Chinese goods.
The move, which took effect just hours after the tariffs were enacted, left global markets reeling.
India, which had been staring down the prospect of economic fallout, had already begun bracing for disaster.
The Numbers
Tariffs imposed - and then put on hold - on India's Polished Diamonds, moving from 0% to 26%, on Gold products, moving from 7% to 33%, on Silver products, moving from 5% to 31%, and on Gemstones, moving from 6% to 32%.
Watch CNBC's TV 18 report from India, an interview with Adil Kotwal, chairman of the SGJMA (Seepz Gems and Jewellery Manufacturers Association), and Sabyasachi Ray, executive director of the GJEPC (Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council) ...
Tap Here to watch CNBC's TV 18 report from India
| | The Smithsonian Institution | | |
Now THIS is a RED Diamond!
Winston Collection Unveiled
Outstanding Green, Shocking Yellow, Fabulous Blue, ... and a True White
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On a Personal Note
Gary Roskin, G.G., FGA
I had the pleasure of being in Washington, D.C. on April 3rd to co-lead a tour of the Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of Natural History's Gem & Mineral Hall. This was an additional pre-event Gems & Jewelry tour for attendees of the International Society of Appraisers’ Assets 2025 Conference.
Joining me to lead the gem & mineral tour was Smithsonian volunteer Ken Rock (yes, that’s his real name), an expert in environmental sciences, and editor for the MSDC, the Mineralogical Society of the District of Columbia's newsletter. Together, we had the privilege of introducing the group to the Winston Gallery’s newest highlight: the Winston Fancy Color Diamond Collection.
Getting Personal IMHGO (In My Humble Gemological Opinion)
We don’t often get personal in the Roskin Gem News Report. Typically, we focus on delivering unbiased gemological insights—details you might not have known, facts that deepen your understanding and appreciation of the gems and gem-set jewels we find newsworthy.
But with the Winston Red, I feel compelled to speak from personal experience. So here goes...
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The Largest Red?
This diamond isn’t remarkable simply for being a large red diamond. While it is indeed a sizable red diamond at 2.33 carats, that’s not what sets it apart.
And it’s not about being 1-in-a-million, or 1-in-25-million, or any other numerical rarity you might toss about. The Winston Red transcends statistics.
It’s really all about the color!
The Winston Red exists in a color class all its own. Singular. Unrivaled. A true pinnacle of red diamond color. Amongst red diamonds, this one stands at the summit.
Yes, They Are Rare
Red diamonds are amongst the rarest and most extraordinary gemstones in the world. Many come from sources like Western Australia, southern Africa, Russia, and Brazil... and many of those red diamonds exhibit secondary hues, such as brown or purple, noted as "Fancy Brownish-Red" and "Fancy Purplish-Red" on grading reports. Even red diamonds graded as a straight “Fancy Red” may show these secondary colors, even though they may not be explicitly noted on the laboratory report.
This is not to diminish the beauty of those diamonds—they are all remarkable in their own right. But when viewed alongside the Winston Red, this stone reveals a red that is, quite simply, unmatched.- gr
The unveiling of the Winston Fancy Color Diamond Collection at the Smithsonian
Sant Director Kirk Johnson and Coralyn W. Whitney Curator of Gems and Minerals Gabriela Farfan
Photo by Phillip R. Lee, Smithsonian Institution
Photos of the display, up top and below, by Gary Roskin - no photoshop... that is the color!
Tap here to see and read more about this spectacular Red and the collection!
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How Much Are the Crown Jewels Worth
—And Who Owns Them Now? —
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We can't read enough about the British Crown Jewels - if it's gemologically correct, that is.
Here is a fun read, which talks about their worth!
Lori Ioannou
Readers Digest
The British crown jewels are worth even more money than you might imagine. Here's who inherited these treasures, along with Queen Elizabeth II's private jewelry collection.
If you’ve ever seen any of the British crown jewels, you know they’re not exactly subtle. They are sparkle-set to the max: crowns encrusted with thousands of diamonds, gold scepters, jewel-studded orbs and ornate brooches. And what you might not realize is that Queen Elizabeth’s personal stash of jewelry is completely separate from this collection. So what’s in both collections, exactly, and just how much are the crown jewels worth?
It’s hard to put a number on it, since these jaw-dropping pieces are steeped in centuries of history and royal tradition. “The crown jewels are a priceless collection that represents the history and continuity of the British monarchy,” says royal historian and author Carolyn Harris, PhD. “They’re significant to the entire nation of the United Kingdom.” That said, we do have some numbers for you.
Reader’s Digest spoke with Harris and Lauren Kiehna, a historian and the writer of the blog The Court Jeweller, to dive into the glittering world of royal bling. Read on to find out all the details about them, including what happened to them after Queen Elizabeth died and where they are now.
Tap here to find out how much the Crown Jewels are worth!
| | Rio Tinto Discovers Exceptional Yellow Diamond from its Diavik Diamond Mine | | |
Another large diamond found up in Canada! This time, a 150-carat fancy yellow.
Rio Tinto
Diavik Diamond Mine
Rio Tinto has unearthed one of the largest gem-quality yellow diamonds ever discovered in Canada, from its Diavik Diamond Mine.
The 158.20 carat rough diamond was discovered at Diavik located 200km south of the Arctic Circle in the remote Northwest Territories of Canada.
It is one of only five yellow diamonds weighing more than 100 carats ever unearthed at Diavik in its 22-year history. Diavik’s production primarily consists of white gem quality diamonds, with less than one percent of its production yielding rare yellow diamonds.
Tap here to read more about the find as well as more images of the 158-carat yellow!
| | Museum Collection: Fabergé Eggs | | |
Royal Easter Eggs
Fabergé at the Virginia Museum of Fine Art
Richmond, Virginia
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Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report
Thanks to Lillian Thomas Pratt, the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts (VMFA) contains the finest (and reportedly largest) collection of Fabergé objects outside of Russia, many of which contain gems and minerals that might be of interest to you here in the Roskin Gem News Report.
The VMFA's public collection of Fabergé and Russian decorative arts includes about 200 objects by or attributed to the Fabergé firm, as well as “Old Russian”–style works, such as silver and enamels, by Feodor Rückert and other masters.
These pieces are not simply viewed as a cup, a pendant, an egg, or an owl, but as works of extraordinary craftsmanship, by extraordinary artists.
One of several imperial Easter Eggs, seen here is the Imperial Tsarevich [Czarevitch] Easter Egg was presented by Tsar Nicholas II to his wife, Empress Alexandra Feodorovna, in 1912.
It stands 5 inches tall and is cleverly constructed to appear as if it is carved from a single piece of lapis lazuli. It actually has six lapis lazuli sections, where the joints are concealed under the elaborate gold decorations, including the double-headed eagles, a symbol of imperial Russia. This royal Easter egg is made up of lapis lazuli, gold, and diamonds. The Picture frame inside is made up of silver, platinum, lapis lazuli, diamonds, watercolor on ivory, and rock crystal.
Tap here to explore the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts!
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from the Ethical Gem Fair
Nature's Geometry and Quore
Quartz - Rutilated Quartz, Dumortierite in Quartz, Brazil
Photo by Gary Roskin
| | Trade Publications - GemGuide | |
Anthill Garnet
The Pyrope Unearthed with the Help of Insects!
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Courtesy of Gemworld International, and the GemGuide, a very timely article about chrome red garnet.
Brecken Branstrator, GIA GG
Gemworld International
Gemstone mining is anything but an easy task. But for one small group of hardworking insects, finding and moving gem material is simply a by-product of the work done to create their homes.
Enter the anthill garnets found on the Navajo Indian Reservation in Arizona. Anthill garnets get their name because of how they are found and collected, which is by hand after ants (specifically, southwestern harvester ants) have pushed the rough up and out of the earth as they are tunneling and building. The stones gather at the base of the anthills, making them easily to collect from the ground.
Tap here to read the full story in Gemworld International's GemGuide Magazine!
| | Sotheby's Diamond Extravaganza
Showcase in Abu Dhabi | | |
Sotheby’s hosted an exhibition in Abu Dhabi (9–10 April 2025) featuring a remarkable selection of colored diamonds, including one of the most significant blue diamonds to appear in recent years. This was the first public exhibition Sotheby’s has held in Abu Dhabi since 2009.
The exhibition was held at the Bassam Freiha Art Foundation on Saadiyat Island—a notable architectural space and non-profit cultural institution. On display were some of the world’s most striking fancy color diamonds.
The centerpiece of the exhibition was "The Mediterranean Blue," a 10.03-carat Fancy Vivid Blue. Exceptionally rare, the blue is being shown ahead of its upcoming appearance at Sotheby’s High Jewellery auction in Geneva on May 13th, where it will be offered for sale for the first time.
Tap here to see the Sotheby's exhibition of
large diamonds that were on display in Abu Dhabi!
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“Even a 10% tariff on rough gems we import into the U.S. from Tanzania and Kenya will have an Impact” - Monica Stephenson, ANZA Gems
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“I’ve been thinking about what this means for ANZA GEMS, LLC and our MoyoGems collaboration,” writes Monica Stephenson, president of ANZA Gems, in her LinkedIn post, speaking about the U.S. tariffs.
“There is no doubt that an additional 10% tariff on the rough gems we import into the U.S. from Tanzania and Kenya will have an impact, eventually.”
“I already pay the Tanzanian government about 7% (6 + 1% on the value of gems exported) plus export and other fees outside of the cost of shipping to the U.S. (Kenya slightly less).”
Short Supply Chain Benefits
“We are fortunate,” says Stephenson. “We source exclusively from Tanzania and Kenya—with the minimum tariff amount—and have the majority of our gems faceted in United States. Thanks to our direct and short supply chain, we know PRECISELY where things come from and export via official channels. We have transparency and accountability, so we are well-prepared for this new world.”
But eventually, they are looking at prices going up... What then?
Tap here to read more about how tariffs will affect the gem sector!
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GIA Announces a Tariff Work-Around
Overseas Labs Accepting Larger Diamonds for Grading
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In response to logistics challenges related to recently announced tariffs affecting global shipments of gemstones, GIA (Gemological Institute of America) will temporarily expand services offered by the GIA Laboratory DMCC in Dubai, and the GIA Hong Kong laboratory.
- D-to-Z diamonds, rough or polished, up to 9.99 cts may be submitted to the GIA laboratories in Dubai and Hong Kong.
- D-to-Z diamonds, rough or polished, 10 cts and above and fancy color diamonds may be submitted to the GIA laboratory in Hong Kong until further notice.
GIA is working with courier services, as well as government and industry groups to understand the quickly evolving global logistics to provide our services efficiently.
Other GIA Laboratory Locations
D-to-Z diamonds, rough or polished, up to 3.99 cts may continue to be submitted to the GIA laboratories in Bangkok, Dubai, Gaborone, Hong Kong, Johannesburg, Mumbai, Surat and Tokyo.
Regarding Rough Shipments
Rough diamond submissions are subject to the Kimberley Process Certification rules in each country; rough diamonds cannot be shipped to the GIA laboratory in Dubai.
GIA's U.S. Labs
The GIA laboratories in the United States (Carlsbad and New York) will continue to accept diamonds, colored stones and pearls of any size from clients in the United States or with a United States country of origin.
Colored Stones
The GIA laboratories in Bangkok, Hong Kong and Tokyo will continue to provide services for colored stones and pearls, and the GIA laboratory in Mumbai will continue to provide pearl services.
GIA laboratory clients with questions about GIA services should contact their client service team. Questions about shipping should be directed to the client’s preferred courier.
For more information, contact your GIA Laboratory
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AGTA Proactive on Tariff Concerns
Gemstone Association Communicating with Congress
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Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report
In the past two weeks, we have heard from AGTA's CEO John Ford and president Bruce Bridges regarding U.S. tariffs, how they may affect the colored gemstone industry, and what AGTA is doing to protect their membership.
"AGTA has been and is in contact with officials in Washington seeking clarification on the tariffs on loose colored gemstones and finished jewelry," noted Ford. To that point, AGTA has requested exact tariff numbers from the Commerce Department and Customs and Border Protection.
"Preventively, AGTA has reached out to elected officials in the Senate and House of Representatives for assistance and has requested that all the tariffs on loose precious and semi-precious gemstones be eliminated by special exception."
Ford is concerned that tariffs will give international gemstone merchants "a significant competitive edge over U.S. based gemstone companies." As for tariffs on finished jewelry imports, AGTA has advised the Senate and House Members that "the U.S. wholesale and retail jewelry sectors cannot afford the increased costs of the tariffs on finished jewelry, citing both sectors will be decimated."
Ford reiterated, "I do anticipate the need for AGTA to undertake an effort in coordination with membership to lobby the Congress and the White House against these tariffs."
Bridges noted that the AGTA was relieved to hear the president’s 90-day pause on reciprocal tariffs. "Nevertheless, this leaves in place the baseline tariff of 10% while individual countries negotiate with the U.S. on tariffs." This still represents a serious threat to the AGTA’s membership.
According to Bridges, "The AGTA has retained a lobbyist specializing in 'trade issues' in Washington, D.C. to vigorously represent the AGTA’s interests and seek the elimination of the base line tariff for loose colored gemstones."
AGTA will continue to keep their membership appraised of their efforts and what it can do to help in the process. Ford will be in contact with individual members who have key elected representatives in the U.S. Senate and House of Representatives. "Our lobbyist in Washington has developed a concise strategy to achieve the AGTA’s desired result that we will implement over the next several weeks."
Both Ford and Bridges will be in Washington D.C. in the next several weeks working with their lobbyist and meeting with important Congressional members.
And here at the RGNR, we will try to keep you up-to-date on how all of this will affect the global gemstone trade.
Good Luck!
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Fossil Ammonites
ABT World of Crystals
welt-der-kristalle.de
Photo by Gary Roskin
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Islamabad, Pakistan Minerals
Investment Forum
Eyes On Gemstones - Peridot & Emerald
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Dawn.com
A two-day Pakistan Minerals Investment Forum took place this past week at the Jinnah Convention Center in Islamabad.
In his opening address, Deputy Prime Minister Ishaq Dar stated that Pakistan is ideally situated to become a major player in the global mining industry, thanks to its exceptional geological resources.
He pointed out that the country holds significant mineral deposits, including the Reko Diq (one of the largest undeveloped copper-gold projects in the world), as well as extensive reserves of rare earth elements, industrial minerals, non-metallic resources, and gemstones like peridot and emerald, which are in high demand worldwide.
Dar noted that Pakistan's largely untapped mineral wealth positions it to become a key part of global supply chains and attract substantial foreign investment. He added that the government is committed to developing the mining sector through forward-looking policies and investor-friendly measures, creating a strong foundation for long-term growth and value for all involved.
Tap here to watch the video report from the Pakistan Minerals Investment Forum!
| | Canadian Design Competition | |
The 2025
Canadian Jewellery Design Competition
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The Canadian Gemmological Association (CGA) is once again calling on all Canadian jewellery design students to enter their designs for a chance to win recognition, as well as cash prizes.
2025 CGA Emerging Artist Design Competition Prizes include:
1st Place: $ 1000 CAD
2ndPlace: $ 500 CAD
3rd Place: $ 250 CAD
The competition deadline is June 30, 2025, 11:59 pm EST.
"The CGA is thrilled to sponsor the seventh (7) round of the Emerging Artist Design Competition Award. As an educational and professional organization, we have consistently championed and celebrated jewellery schools across Canada, recognizing them as vital hubs that cultivate the nation’s finest and most gifted talents. This competition celebrates the rich diversity of artistic talent in our country and offers young designers an opportunity to shine. I encourage all students with a passion for design to seize this moment — to transform their ideas into dazzling works of art. Together, let us celebrate innovation, creativity, and the brilliance of Canadian talent." said Donna Hawrelko, President of the CGA.
Winners will be announced later this year, and the prize money will be awarded at that time.
The CGA Emerging Artist Design Competition is the only one of its kind in Canada, giving students global recognition for their work and honouring excellence in jewellery design.
All competitors can enter their submissions at www.canadiangemmological.com
Complete competition details can be found on the CGA website as well as information about past winners. Tap Here!
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High Jewelry Watches
As Seen @ Watches & Wonders Geneva
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Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report
Here's a pictorial that features High Jewelry Watches.
You'll see Van Cleef & Arpels gem encrusted timepieces, one just covered in pink sapphires with a hidden watch. Another VC&A, uses invisibly set emeralds and sapphires, with the most amazing 4-carat table cut diamond watch crystal!
And more!
All of these timepieces were seen this year at Watches and Wonders Geneva, April 1-7, 2025. The watch show reportedly reached a record attendance, with over 55,000 visitors throughout the week! The public days and the “In The City” program were equally a great success, according to show management.
Key exhibitors included Maison BVLGARI, A. Lange & Söhne, Hublot, Cartier, Christiaan van der Klaauw, Genus, Kross Studio, Patek Philippe, MeisterSinger, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Armin Strom, HYT, and Vacheron Constantin.
We uncovered several beautiful high jewelry gem-set watches for you to enjoy!
Tap here for beautiful gem-set High Jewelry Watches, as seen at the Watches and Wonders Show!
| | Let Us Help You Get Noticed! | | |
Do you know why we buy more Lindt chocolates during the holidays than almost any other time of the year?
Because they advertise!
We make advertising easy (and very affordable) - just click the Ad package you like, and then send us your artwork. It just that simple - like eating chocolates!
Tap the box here to start advertising before your next showing!
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International Gemmological Conference in Helena
– June 13-15, 2025
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Lightning Ridge, Australia
– July 23-26, 2025
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GemGenève
Geneva, Switzerland
– May 8-11, 2025
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TEFAF
New York, New York, USA
– May 9-13, 2025
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JCK – Reed Exhibitions
The Venetian Expo, Las Vegas, Nevada, USA
– June 6-9, 2025 [Gems Pavilion June 5, Jewelry Show June 6]
Their dates are always confusing… check just to make certain! – gr
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AMBERIF
Branko Gems
The Rare Gem
Bear Essentials
HardRock Summit
FACETS SRI LANKA
Allerton Cushman & Co.
Flawless: Blue White & D Flawless
GIA - Gemological Institute of America
The Canadian Gemmological Association
ASA - the American Society of Appraisers
AGTA - the American Gem Trade Association
AGA - the Accredited Gemologists Association
Gem-A - Gemmological Association of Great Britain
NAJA - the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers
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Back from Washington DC
The International Society of Appraisers met last week in Washington. I was asked to co-lead a tour of the gem & mineral hall as well as give a presentation on National Gem Treasures. We saw the Winston fancy color diamond collection close up, and you can read my report on that up top.
Next week - Hybrid Diamond Master Sets!... the full story.
In the meantime, stay informed and keep in touch. We’d love to hear where you’ve been and what gems you’ve discovered!
As always, we will continue to post features on the website, so feel free to log on to the Roskin Gem News Magazine any time: www.RoskinGemNewsReport.com
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Want to contribute?
If you would like to contribute, or you have read something somewhere that you feel would be perfect to share with the community, then please feel free to contact me directly at Gary@RoskinGemNews.com
I will see you again SOON!
Stay safe and stay healthy!
Gary Roskin
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