UC MASTER GARDENERS OF L.A. COUNTY

Tomato Problems - Part 2

Article by MG Yvonne Savio

A green and a red tomato attached to tomato vine.

In part two of tomato problems, we take a closer look at foliage and what it can tell you about what might be wrong and then how to treat it. 

 

Symptom: Leaves roll upward and are firm and leathery, but with no yellowing or stunting. Leaves on the sunny side of staked plants may often curl, while those on the shady side do not.

Problem: Common growth, no harm to plant development or fruit production. Too much leaf pruning, sucker removal, or overly wet soil may pro­mote it.

Solution: Plant on well-drained soil. Do not cultivate deeply near the plants, and avoid extremely close pruning.

 

Symptom: Roll upward and twist, become stiff and leathery, yellowed, stunted. Veins on the underside turn purple.

Problem: Curly top, western yellow blight. Transmitted by leafhopper from weeds.

Solution: Use resistant varieties. Destroy infected plants. 

 

Symptom: Yellow and green mottling, crinkled, and smaller than normal, shoestring appearance.

Problem: Mosaic viruses. Transmitted from weeds and flowers, aphids, cucumber beetles.

Solution: Wash hands with soap and water before handling plants. Do not smoke or handle tobacco before or while handling plants. Remove and destroy infected plants.


Symptom: Numerous small dark brown circular spots on young leaves, becoming bronzed and withered; older foliage is yellowed. Dark brown spots or streaks on stems near tips.

Problem: Spotted wilt. Spread by thrips from weeds and ornamentals.

Solution: Keep separate from vulnerable vegetables like lettuce, celery, spinach, peppers, and potatoes. 


Symptom: Yellowing, wilting, dying of lower leaves progressively up the plant. Initially, it often affects only one side of the plant. Brown streaks in tissue of the lower stem when split lengthwise. Produce few fruit which usually decay and drop before ripening.

Problem: Verticillium or fusarium wilts.

Solution: Plant resistant varieties. Use clean soil. Avoid areas previously planted with toma­toes, peppers, eggplant, potatoes, or cucurbits. Destroy infected plants.

 

Symptom: Distorted, cupped, or curled, ragged at edges, curved downward. Light-colored veins appear parallel.

Problem: Hormone-type herbicides.

Solution: Use extreme care when using herbicides. Plants may outgrow damage if given good cultural care.


Symptom: Irregular greenish-black water-soaked patches on older leaves which enlarge and may show a white, downy growth on the surface. Fruits develop a gray, green spot which becomes brown and wrinkled or corrugated; may become mushy.

Problem: Late blight fungus.

Solution: Prevalent in mild, moist weather. Hot, dry weather will slow or stop the advance of disease.


Symptom: Dark areas of dead tissue surrounded by yellow on oldest leaves.

Problem: Anthracnose, a soil-borne fungus disease.

Solution: Avoid handling wet plants or planting in poorly-drained soil. Rotate to new soil each year. Remove and destroy infected plants or plant parts after harvest.


Symptom: Many tiny round holes, leaves may be so riddled that they turn brown and wilt.

Problem: Flea beetles.

Solution: A few holes are not damaging. Most damage occurs during the first warm weather of spring, when plants are small. Apply garlic spray.

 

Symptom: Eaten or chewed, partially or entirely.

Problem: Hornworm.

Solution: If the worm is carrying white pupae, let it be -- it's the victim of a parasitic braconid wasp and should be left to nurture a new brood of beneficials. Remove worms by hand and destroy (sprinkling water on plants will make them wriggle, making them more visible and easy to pick). Spray with Bt. Release trichogramma wasps.  

 

Symptom: Greasy appearance becoming bronzed and stippled, webbing and "moving dust" on undersides of leaves or in leaf axils. The plant appears to dry out from the ground up. Leaves turn brown and paper-like but do not wilt.

Problem: Mites.

Solution: Thrive in hot, dry weather. Wash down plants, especially undersides of leaves. Use garden sulfur according to label directions.


Photo by Jessica Yarger

 
Honey bee in the center of a yellow flower.

Nation Honey Bee Day


National Honey Bee Day is observed on the third Saturday of August, this year on August 15. The first observation of National Honey Bee Day was in 2009 and was proclaimed by Thomas J. Vilsek, the Secretary of Agriculture at the time. The celebration has continued since 2009 and focuses on the honey bee, beekeepers, and the importance of bees to our survival.


Planting orchards, wildflowers, and other flowers is a great way to support honey bees and the pollination that sustains plants and people.


They often appear when sugary foods and drinks are available. They use the sugar in these food items to make honey. The flavor of honey varies depending upon the source of the nectar. Therefore, honey from various locations will have different tastes. 


A bee colony typically has between 20,000 and 60,000 honey bees. A healthy hive produces about 200 pounds of honey in a year. The availability of nectar, the health of a hive, and the weather impact the success of a hive.

To celebrate National Honey Bee Day, buy some local honey and learn something new about honey bees!


Article by MG Joan L., Photo by Jessica Yarger

 


Advice to Grow by---Ask Us!

 

Reach out to us with gardening inquiries via The Master Gardener helpline, available by email at mglosangeleshelpline@ucdavis.edu.


Find more science-backed, research-based gardening guidance at the MGLA website.

X Share This Email
LinkedIn Share This Email
Facebook  Instagram