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1930 Saturdy, August 5, 2023
St. Francis Harbour was as smooth as glass when we arose this morning. On deck I could see the waning gibbons moon high in the blue sky of the crisp, bright morning.
We had a plan to start the engine and immediately haul anchor and depart the harbor as quickly as possible. If the engine failed again, we wanted to be out beyond the ledges in open water where we could set sail. Thankfully, the engine and the autopilot both worked flawlessly for the day.
We had planned a short day's run to Battle Harbour. I had stopped at Battle Harbour on my way north and wanted to go again with JJ. Battle Harbour is a traditional outport fishing village that has been preserved to show the way of life in the peak years of the cod fishery. We arrived just before noon and were in time for a traditional lunch of pea soup with doughboys followed by fresh baked cookies, cinnamon rolls and gingerbread. We then took a walking tour of the island with Jan Hardy who grew up here on Battle Island. Her tales of childhood, helping to split codfish and romp and play along the shore were mesmerizing. For part of the time she sat on crates in the old salt store beside a "Labrador Box" which fishermen kept their belongings in and a pair of oilskin pants made from a flour sack, all items from her youth. They are beside her in the photo below.
The island is in summer splendor with wild buttercup, blue iris and other wildflowers in bloom. The quaint village houses are mostly painted white with red or green trim. Tomorrow we will stay here to explore the island further. You can see it in the photo below.
A real treat today was the first shower for either JJ or I since leaving Hopedale. It felt like quite the luxury.
Bill
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