Haircut, shave and tooth extraction were all good reasons to visit the local barbershop in the 1880s. During these times a haircut would cost five or ten cents and a shave cost three cents. As early barbers usually served as surgeons and dentists, you could take care of your dental needs at the same time!
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The barber trade has a long history, as razors, made from oyster shells or sharpened flints, had been used by the Egyptians nearly 6000 years ago. In early Egyptian culture, barbers were highly respected members of society.
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Bronze razor, c. 1539-1292 BC, with curved handle riveted to blade.
Image courtesy of Brooklyn Museum.
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Two variations of bronze shaving razors from the Roman Empire, c. 100-200 AD.
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The Romans were introduced to barbering around the beginning of the third century BC. The shops became popular areas to gather for daily news, gossip and debates. A visit to the “tonsor,” an archaic word for barber, was often included in a man’s daily routine, and a young man’s first “tonsura” (shave) was considered an important aspect of his coming-of-age ceremony.
Some Roman tonsores were influential and members of high society, while others were considered tradesmen who worked in small storefronts or in the streets for low wages.
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Barber-surgeons operating on a boil on a man’s forehead.
Image from My Heritage blog.
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Beginning in the Middle Ages, in addition to cutting hair and offering shaves, barbers performed surgeries, bloodletting and leeching in addition to other medical procedures. The variety of services earned them the name barber-surgeons, and they began to form guilds such as the “Worshipful Company of Barbers” in London, in the 1300s.
During fourteenth century England, barbers separated into two groups, those that practiced only barbering and those that practiced only surgery. However, by 1450 the barbers and surgeons guilds were united by law so that no one doing surgery practiced barbering and no barber practiced surgery, except tooth extractions.
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Nearly 300 years later, a law was passed that separated barbers from surgeons. Prior to the separation, both groups used the familiar red, white and blue pole. When the group separated, the barber kept the pole as their identification. The red, white and blue striped pole signified red for blood, white for bandages and blue for veins.
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Bloodletting set of a barber surgeon, from the early 1800s,
photo courtesy of the Berlin Märkisches Museum
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During the colonial days, most men were clean shaven and many of the wealthy wore wigs. The duty of the barber was handled by the servants of the wealthy slave owners.
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During the Civil War, beards became popular as men were not able to receive regular haircuts and shaves. But soon after the war, many immigrants to the US entered the barber profession. It was during this time that the barbershop emerged as an accepted business on Main Streets throughout the country. They once again became the popular place to gather for daily news and gossip, but left pulling teeth to the dentists.
Mutton-chop whiskers became popular in the late nineteenth century. These consisted of sideburns that extend into a beard, looking like a pair of mutton chops on the side of a man's face.
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Chester A. Arthur, the 21st US President from 1881-1885, was very much in style with his mutton-chop whiskers during his time in office.
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After the invention of the personal “safety razor” in the early 1900s, it became much easier for men to shave at home. Now they could experiment with their favorite grooming products in private or at their local barbershop. Perfumed aftershaves, lotions and talc became a fashion accessory.
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These men’s grooming products were made by a variety of toiletry and perfume companies and tell a wonderful story and history of bygone eras.
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The New York William Colgate Company formed in the early 1800s, was one of the first cosmetic and perfume companies in the US and was run by William's son Samuel after his death in 1857. They introduced perfumed soaps and perfumed essences in 1866, and in 1872 Cashmere Bouquet was their first milled perfumed soap used in many barbershops.
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The Barbers Protective Union was formed in Columbus, Ohio in 1886 and became the Journeymen Barbers International in 1887. At this time several states passed legislation where barbers were licensed, and shops were inspected for sterilizations to protect the public from diseases.
It cost approximately $20 to equip the average 10 x 12 foot barbershop. Equipment included a chair, water basin, soap and brushes for each patron. And weekly towels were shared.
In 1893, the first barber college opened in Chicago by A.B. Moler, followed by two more barber colleges in Iowa in 1899 and 1900. These schools offered training, education, and professionalism to the world of hair styling and facial hair trimming, bringing about a new and successful industry.
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During WWI, soldiers wore very short hair due to tough conditions with lice and disease in the trenches. Men tried to shave frequently so their gas masks would seal securely against their faces.
Many barbers were called into service during WW2, and short hair flat tops and crew cuts became popular. During the 1950-60s, longer hair styles for men required barbers to learn new techniques for cutting and styling hair, especially after the Beatles set the stage. Many barbers who refused to learn the new methods eventually went out of business.
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A man's desire to look and feel good about himself is more prevalent today than ever. And the industry for men's hair and toiletry products reached over $26 billion dollars by 2020.
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In 2018, Arthur Rubinoff opened the NYC Barbershop Museum with barber’s poles and antique barber equipment in New York.
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Below are a few time telling images of the changes in men's hairstyles and products over the years.
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The nostalgic barbershop has endured the test of time with classics such as Geo.F. Trumper and Caswell-Massey, and newer brands such as Art of Shaving, and the ever growing presence of local and national barbershops such as Floyd's 99 and many more.
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The iconic barber pole that we still see today brings us back to a time when barbers were expected to engage in "bloodletting" to heal people by releasing illnesses from the body. Today the barber pole embodies the skill, workmanship, and originality of today's barbers. And the red, white and blue lit barber pole is a sign to let customers know they are open for business. The pole is sometimes stationary or can rotate with the assistance of an electric motor.
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The William Marvy company of St. Paul, Minnesota started manufacturing barber poles in 1950. Prior to that, there were only four manufacturers of poles in the US. The company is now the sole manufacturer of poles in North America, selling only 500 per year, compared with 5,100 in the 1960s.
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If you love insects, then the "barber pole
grasshopper" will be a favorite, as it's said to be the most beautiful grasshoper.
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Old-fashioned stick candy is sometimes referred to as "barber pole candy" because of its colorful swirly look.
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The White Shoal Light is the only "barber pole" lighthouse in the US, located 20 miles west of Mackinac Bridge in Lake Michigan. It serves as a navigation aid and is the tallest lighthouse on the Great Lakes.
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Barbasol, a shaving cream that didn't have to be worked into a lather, was created in 1919 by Frank Shields. He formed the Barbasol Company in 1920 and his iconic aerosol can, designed in the 1950s, mimics a barber's pole and is still the trademark design used today.
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Treasures of the Collection
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Perfume Passage Foundation just acquired an interesting book called "The Mennen Company Commemorates the Fiftieth Anniversary of William G. Mennen, 1908 - 1958." This hard bound colorful book documents the early history of the iconic business, from their first G. Mennen Apothecary in 1878 through the company's development of over 50 talcs, deodorants and toiletries.
In addition, our collection includes a large variety of Mennen products, along with an assortment of early ephemera that advertises company products, and the book is a welcome addition, complimenting our exhibits.
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The company was founded by Gerhard H. Mennen, a German immigrant who graduated from the New York College of Pharmacy before purchasing his first drugstore at the age of 22 in Newark, New Jersey. His early products included an innovative talcum based powder called Mennen's Borated Talcum Powder and the company advertised it through a minstrel act called Mennen's Talcum Show.
Mennen died in 1902 and his wife Elma became president of the company, until their Son William took over in 1916. They continued to manufacture and sell over-the-counter pharmaceuticals and personal hygiene products. Many of them went from cardboard containers to glass bottles and then shaker-top cans.
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William G. Mennen Jr., William G. Mennen, George S. Mennen. The Mennen Company Commemorates the 50th Anniversary of William G. Mennen, 1908-1958, Morris Township, NJ; The Mennen Company, 1958. NJHGC Collections.
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In 1953 the company moved its operations to Morristown, New Jersey where they manufactured their popular Skin Bracer, Speed Stick and Baby Magic products among others. Mennen's successful slogan, "By Mennen," was used on all products and became known all over the world.
Several generations of the Mennen family ran the company before it was sold to Colgate-Palmolive in 1992 and none of the Mennen family is involved in running the business. The Morristown offices and manufacturing plant was demolished in 2018, replaced with housing developments and retail space. Next to it remains the Mennen Arena, a multi-purpose sports facility.
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The Skin Bracer Slap Bottle
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Skin Bracer Construction Worker
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Mennen Advertising on Match Book Cover
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Skin Bracer Lightbulb Bottle
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Perfume Passage Foundation is dedicated to preserving the history, beauty, and artistry of perfume bottles, compacts, ephemera and related vanity items. The Foundation seeks to educate and inspire visitors by illuminating the connection between perfume and the human experience.
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We Look Forward to Seeing You Soon - Autumn 2021
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Located in the Chicagoland area, the Perfume Passage Foundation is 38 miles northwest of downtown Chicago and 25 miles from O'Hare International Airport.
Types of tours include:
- Private docent-guided tours
- Group tours
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Symphony of Scents and Sounds
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