When you're deciding on the fabric to use for your next suit, knowing what it's made of can help you make decisions that will give you a long-lasting, high-quality garment. For those who've wondered what the term "worsted" means to their suit, and a little of its history, we've gathered some vocabulary and background on worsted wool.
The term "worsted" came from the location that traditionally produced the wool-the village of Worstead, England, which became a textile manufacturing center in the 12th century.
Raw wool includes both short and long fibers. If the wool is carded, long and short fibers are twisted together into yarn. Loose twisting results in soft yarns that are suitable for sweaters and socks. Wool that has been carded into yarn is called "woolen."
If the wool is combed instead, the shorter fibers (which are also fuzzier) are discarded and only the longer, smoother fibers are included in the yarn. Wool that has had the fuzzier fibers combed out will be known as "worsted." Twisting tightly creates the crisp, taut yarn used in suits.
Fabric made of worsted wool will be stronger, smoother, and slightly shinier than fabric made from whole wool. Because it uses only the longer fibers, worsted wool is also more durable and long-lasting.
Worsted wools are commonly either used in a "plain weave" where threads alternate evenly, or in a twill (including gabardine and serge) where alternating threads are skipped to produce a diagonal pattern. Flannels can be made of either worsted or woolen yarns, and is usually combed on one or both sides to raise some of the soft, shorter fibers.
