Gary Roskin

Roskin Gem News Report

ZaZa Azul: A Paraíba for the People

How a beloved 13.34-carat tourmaline went from a private treasure to the Smithsonian

WASHINGTON, D.C. — On Tuesday morning, September 16th, 2025, the Smithsonian Institution’s National Gem & Mineral Collection unveiled their latest donation: a BVLGARI 18-karat white and yellow gold and diamond ring featuring the “ZaZa Azul,” an intense “Windex-blue" 13.34-carat Brazilian Paraíba tourmaline.

The gift from Sandi “ZaZa” Kolitz and her husband, Bob, now joins the Gem & Mineral Hall alongside icons such as the 138-carat Rosser Reeves Star Ruby, the 75-carat Hooker Emerald, and the 423-carat Logan Sapphire. Dr. Gabriela Farfan, the museum’s Coralyn Whitney Curator of Gems and Minerals, called it “one of the most spectacular examples of Paraíba tourmaline” the Smithsonian has ever displayed.

“Most people know diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, and rubies,” Farfan told the unveiling crowd. “But they do not know tourmaline—especially Paraíba of this quality. Paraíba tourmaline is different. It glows.” She added with a smile: “This piece has been on our wish list for years, and today we get to share it with the world.”



Tap here to read the full story and to catch more images of this fabulous Paraiba Tourmaline!

Gary Roskin

Roskin Gem News Report

Having just returned from California, where GIA’s Symposium and AGS’s Conclave joined forces as CONVERGE, we had an opportunity to visit with Manu Nichani of Blue Moon Enterprises, AGTA member specializing in fine quality moonstone.

Nichani was clear: the coming year will be extremely challenging.

The situation is pretty straightforward. If he doesn’t have it here already, he’s not getting any more. Not until tariffs are drastically reduced.

Importing loose moonstone once carried no additional cost. Now, a 50% tariff will crush business. For many dealers, the increase is enough to halt business. At the same time, Nichani reports that his clients continue to request their usual annual memos—some even asking for more—after stronger-than-expected sales last year.

Tap here to read the full interview, and understand the impact of Tariffs on Indian Goods!

Gary Roskin

Roskin Gem News Report

The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) announced a significant win this month: loose colored gemstones and natural pearls imported from the European Union will now enter the U.S. duty-free, retroactive to September 1, 2025.

AGTA CEO John Ford told us in a phone conversation over the weekend that this breakthrough came only after months of careful lobbying and coordination at the highest levels of government.

Loose polished diamonds are also included in the US-EU agreement, but not cultured pearls.

Persistence in Washington

Ford emphasized that AGTA’s approach has been “a whole-of-government effort.” Since May, he and AGTA President Bruce Bridges of Bridges Tsavorite, have made countless trips to Washington, educating lawmakers and following up with Cabinet agencies.

As reported here earlier, AGTA also hired full-time trade representatives in Washington to push these issues daily.



“It’s a huge expense,” Ford acknowledged, “but we’re working on issues that directly affect loose colored gemstones, natural and cultured pearls.” 

Tap here to find out what this means, and to see where this may lead!



Gary Roskin

Roskin Gem News Report

In our last report on Heritage Auctions’ September 29 Fall Fine Jewelry Signature® Sale, we focused on a few beautiful pieces of colored gemstone jewels; four loose gems, including a 3.15-carat Brazilian Paraiba tourmaline with spectacular color that sold for $106,250, a 2.46-carat no-heat Burmese ruby that sold for $62,500, an obvious 2.35-carat Kashmir sapphire that sold for $57,500, and a rare 10.96-carat Zimbabwe (Sandawana) emerald (did not sell).

We also highlighted a 10.13-carat Old Mine (Cushion? “Roval”?) Brilliant cut diamond set in platinum, sold for $120,000. Who knew Taylor Swift would be wearing one very similar (although hers is obviously just a tad bit larger)? 

And then there was the auction, which revealed a surprise - the $625,000 sale price for this 41-carat Olive colored diamond! WOW!

Tap here to find over a dozen pieces we found to be gem-note-worthy, their estimated sale price, and the results!

Gary Roskin

Roskin Gem News Report

Getting seven of the world’s leading gem labs to agree on anything is no small task. Yet for nearly 25 years, the Laboratory Manual Harmonisation Committee (LMHC) has done just that—bringing together experts from America, Asia, and Europe to sit at the same table, compare notes, and hammer out common ground. Their deceptively simple goal: ensure that gemological reports worldwide use consistent language.

On September 29, 2025, the LMHC reported significant progress, unanimously approving three new information sheets that standardize terminology and testing procedures, as well as updating the information sheet covering Fei Cui and jade terminology.

Who or What is the LMHC?

The idea for such a committee began back in 2001, at the request of several colored gemstone dealers who were frustrated with inconsistent report wording. A stone described one way by one professional lab might be labeled differently by another, creating confusion that negatively affected both trust and sales. In response, the LMHC was formed.

Bringing together several of the world’s leading gemmological laboratories, today the seven members—CGL (Japan), CISGEM (Italy), DSEF (Germany), GIA (USA), GIT (Thailand), Gübelin Gem Lab (Switzerland), and SSEF (Switzerland)—work side by side to share their gemological opinions and reach a consensus. Their mission is clear: to cooperate on gemological issues that matter to the trade, and, most importantly, to harmonize the language on gemological reports.

These Information Sheets (IS) help the trade, including other laboratories, properly understand the consistent terminology and/or gemological approaches, found on their lab reports. And while their work may not make headlines every day, it underpins the credibility of the reports the trade relies on worldwide.

Tap here to follow the newly released Information Sheets



Gary Roskin

Roskin Gem News Report

NEW YORK — For decades, Marcus & Co. has been one of those elusive names in American jewelry history: admired by connoisseurs, but shrouded in mystery. That’s changing, thanks to a groundbreaking new book — and a tightly curated exhibition at the Macklowe Gallery showcasing six rare Marcus & Co. masterpieces.

“Marcus had a truly artistic point of view,” said Ben Macklowe, who now runs the family gallery founded by his parents in the 1960s. “They belonged more in the company of René Lalique than in the company of straightforward jewelers like Black, Starr & Frost. Their vision set them apart in the U.S. jewelry world.”

From Mystery to Remarkable

When Macklowe’s parents began in the estate business, Marcus jewelry was already collectible — but little was known about the firm itself. Corporate records had vanished; the designers and clients remained obscure.

A breakthrough came 15 years ago when Janet Zapata, former Tiffany archivist, published tantalizing articles in the magazine Antiques. But with questions still haunting jewelry historians, two seasoned experts — Sheila Barron Smithie (Metropolitan Museum) and Beth Carver Wees (Curator Emerita of the Met’s American Wing) — took on the challenge.

Their research changed the narrative. “What they’ve done in their book is nothing short of remarkable,” Macklowe said. “For me, it’s the best bit of jewelry scholarship I’ve ever seen.”

Tap here for all the details, and to get the address of where to go!



Gem-A has just sent out their latest Journal of Gemmology, and, as always, it is packed full of note-worthy gem news.

On the cover (seen here) is this magnificent double-strand necklace of coral beads and cabochons measuring from approximately 7.9 mm in diameter to 17.30 ×

16.20 mm.

"Based on their size, color and surface characteristics, they may belong to Corallium rubrum (red), C. elatius (red) and C. secundum (pink)."

The necklace was designed by David Webb (New York, New York USA) and was photographed by Robert and Orasa Weldon; courtesy of the Somewhere In The Rainbow Collection, Scottsdale, Arizona, USA.

This feature story is about testing polished specimens of coral to determine its species using their DNA! This may later prove to be useful in actually determining locality, geographic origin, as well!

In this issue:

◈ "Machine-learning Applications in Gemmology: Classifying the Geographic Origin of Ruby and Sapphire Using Chemical Data

◈ Age Dating of Gem-quality Zircon and Sapphire from the New England Gem Fields in New South Wales, Australia, and its Application to the Geological

Origin of the Sapphires

◈ Massive Cryptocrystalline Vesuvianite-Grossular from Eastern Afghanistan: Gemmological and Geological Considerations

and as we noted up top,

◈ Species Identification of Coral Jewellery by Genetic Testing: Case Studies, Experiences and Prospects

Of course, the Journal includes What's New, Gem Notes, Events, Books, and more!

The Journal of Gemmology is published by Gem-A in collaboration with SSEF.

THE JOURNAL OF GEMMOLOGY, 39(7), 2025

Editor-in-Chief, Brendan Laurs

Tap here to go directly to the Gem-A's website where members can download their free copy of the Journal.

And don't forget to register for the Gem-A Annual Conference

November 1-2, 2025 (see Box Ad above)

Time & Location

Oct 09, 2025, 10:00 AM EDT – Oct 11, 2025, 5:00 PM EDT

Hosted by Brooklyn Metal Works, 640 Dean St, Brooklyn, NY 11238

About the event

The Ethical Gem Fair Brooklyn is set to take place at Brooklyn Metal Works, a metalsmithing studio and gallery located in Brooklyn, New York.

This event is exclusively for trade, inviting trade members along with students and metalsmiths from Brooklyn Metal Works.



Registrations for the Ethical Gem Fair are free.

Open October 9th to 11th from 10am to 5pm each day

Tap here for more information about the fair as well as registration details!

Columbia Gem House (CGH) has launched its fifth annual online fundraising raffle, "Opals for Outback Heroes," inspired by — and directly benefiting — the community behind this year’s featured gemstones: Lightning Ridge opals.

Press Release

Columbia Gem House

These world-famous opals come from the Lightning Ridge area of New South Wales, Australia, where the volunteer-run Lightning Ridge Rural Fire Brigade protects the people, wildlife, and landscape surrounding the mines. In collaboration with their sourcing partner Cheal Opal, Columbia Gem House intentionally chose the Brigade as this year’s fundraiser recipient to give back to the very community that makes these stones possible.

The Opals for Outback Heroes Fundraiser runs alongside the MJSA Responsibly Sourced Design Challenge — an annual competition celebrating responsible sourcing and creative jewelry design. Each year, designers craft one-of-a-kind pieces inspired by the Challenge’s fictional story using gemstones donated by Columbia Gem House, then donate those finished pieces to the fundraiser.

Tap here to find out how to Participate!